dirkba

Hi Fognozzle, I am only responding since I see there is a reluctance to reply...maybe because sewing canvas and leather by hand is a challenging task which few would like to take on! I use a cylinder arm to stitch, but I am sure a straight sewing machine should also do the trick. Your reference to military style bags is right up my alley - I have started to re-purpose military bags by adding leather and reshaping it a bit. I have to caution that since I have done these projects the airlines in South Africa has started refusing round travel bags or bags with lengthy shoulder straps.

Hi Charon, Email sent! Don't want to hijack this thread!

Levins7, I have used a "pliable" deerskin for my laptop bag and I am pleased with the outcome. It was also my first attempt! The pics are not studio quality, but will give you an idea of the hide "performance" once the project is complete. If you don't like the "saggy" look then you need to use a stiffener or get proper veg tan hide. Hope this helps!

Hi billybopp, The left hand blade was made from a saw blade - which has a hole for the shaft to go through. The maker probably used a DIY 4 1/2 inch circular saw blade to create that roundhead knife. I did something similar and used an old saw blade - DO NOT use carbide tungsten tipped ones. Old saw blades are almost always made from high quality steel. ... The blade is already the right hardness for holding an edge, so you don't need to treat the steel to make it a good knife.

SheltataLore, Take a look at this jig - it might need some adjusting to suit your need! https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-Woodworking-Sculpture-Carving-Knife-Shovel-Chisel-Fix-Angle-Sharpener-Clamp-Knife-Sharpening-Guide/32581260094.html

Hi TerryHHI, What a GREAT find! I would definitely revamp that collectible...but not overdo it. Accept it is an old bag and replacing any leather won't add value. The black markings on the leather looks to me like the remnants of stickers that were pasted to the bag OR its possible that it could be printers ink that came of newspaper wrapped around the bag and it got wet. Useless piece of info - Tarzan (Johnny Weismuller - then olympic swimmer) was one of the main attractions at the Exposition! Please post pics once you have finished restoration.

I have never tried making a top hat since I have no use or market for such a hat. As for the "best leather to use for a top hat" I think the shape requires a stiff type of leather like veg tan, but that could be very heavy to wear. I made a Greek hat from upholstery leather, which was a disaster and difficult to work with, the weight makes it uncomfortable to wear. My second attempt was done with "napa" leather and using a stiffener for support. It is much lighter and wears comfortably. If you are only going to make a top hat for the experience you could look at this thread http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-a-Leather-Hat/ Enjoy the experience!

Hi, This is where I would start searching for help! https://www.leathercraftlibrary.com/c-85-patterns-free-leathercraft.aspx?pagenum=2 https://www.leathercraftlibrary.com/p-1743-sheridan-floral-corner-and-belt-pattern-by-jim-linnell.aspx Good luck!

I use Gumtree "activities and hobby" tab or the free section to get rid of pre-packed bags with usable pieces. I suppose if the bags have larger pieces you could price the bags! One man's junk is another one's treasure...

It would probably have to be made from soft leather...and could realy have any bag shape with an outside pocket! https://www.shopwildandfree.co.za/products/kudu-leather-diaper-bag http://thediymommy.com/sew-a-leather-diaper-bag-and-diaper-clutch/

Great work and detail...will just have to put this one on my "to do list" Realy inspiring!

I have to agree with Dwight - specially if the skin contains wool and you use that as padding. At first the sheepskin will look great, but after a while oil and dust turns to grime in the wool and then the problems start!! if its just the skin (leather) then it would have to be tanned well and not attract moisture or rust becomes your biggest enemy. Not ALL leather is suitable for fire arms - I made a pouch for magazines and left the mags in the pouch. When I removed it a few weeks later I had to start removing rust marks from the mags.

Great minds think alike...!! I've tried this with a 1,5 litre bag, but shaping it to the wine bag and sealing with a home sealer did not work. So I just stuck it inside the bag...the creases formed by a too big wine box bag held some wine back after use which oxidised and "contaminated" new wine added to the bag. So I have to replace the inner or seal the Bota bag. Maybe just buy a new one and use the old leather for another project...

Sattendorn, I don't have a pattern, but if this could help you in any way....go for it and adjust the pattern as you see fit. https://sew4home.com/projects/storage-solutions/our-classic-safari-duffle

Hi, Any one tried making these wine bags...or rather restore it? I can't seem to find any suppliers for the thick poly linings used in more recent bags. If you have other bright ideas to wine proof the inside, without giving the wine an after taste let me know!

Post a picture on this website and see what they have to say about the knife... www.bladeforums.com It seems the knife only has one side to cut...and that would then be for a left handed person

That could be a blade of some sort found in industrial or agricultural machines to cut string, which means it has been salvaged to make a cutting tool of some kind. I can't see it being used to remove hair from skins - in the tanning process chemicals are used to de-root hair or else it would contaminate the skin. The shape of the knife reminds me of a tourne knife, but the one sided serrated blade makes me lean towards the string cutting application. My 2c!

Go back to this post... http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/54495-fire-fighter-helmet-shields/

Texback, Those stools look great, but having tried that myself, I am concerned that the stress on the top of your legs are going to be an issue... Perhaps you could secure the top of the legs with a snug fitting metal ring - so the screws won't crack the "dowl" in half if you ad weight when sitting down. I sew pockets on the underside of mine so the legs could push into it. After a few years the stitching faltered because of the wooden legs rubbing the thread. Keep up the good work!

An eight and four combination might be extremely heavy to carry around... but if you managed to make your own pouch patterns then this should be an easy challenge! For more guidance see the Stohlman Art of making leather cases Vol 1 page 32 & 33 for a basic layout. Stack 8 cartridge boxes and measure them - repeat with 4 boxes....and apply your mind to attach the half size bag to the large one! Good luck!

I decided to replace my old "moon bag" with a more modern concealed carry bag...this was a learning curve! My biggest challenge was to sew the thick parts without breaking the thread. I used a 180/24 needle and polyester cotton corespun (Tex 300) thread...not so clued up with other alternatives. I am sure if I find the right thread and needle match it should be much easier!!

Hi ByNelson, Those instructions and diagrams are in: The art of Making Leather Cases - volume 2. send me your mail address - dirkba@webafrica.org.za I also modified the "handle" for better carry purpose and added a side pocket

Jip...looks like standard 4mm piping. Just google leather piping

Hi OldHarnesGuy, I am no expert on needles, but recently decided to do a project combining canvas and leather, so I did a little research and found the following helpfull. I did the whole bag (pic below) with a leather needle and was satisfied that it did not fray the canvas. Universal Intended as an all-purpose needle, preferred for woven fabrics where a sharper needle could ruin the fabric. Similar to a ballpoint needle but tapered to allow the needle to slip through without producing a run. Ballpoint Similar to a universal needle but has rounded edges and is not tapered the same way. Intended for closely knit fabrics where the rounded tip will push the weave out of the way rather than cut through it. Leather These have a distinct triangular point to help the needle make a large, clean hole in non-woven materials like vinyl.

Engineers French Chalk (also known as Welder's Chalk and Soapstone) is mainly used for marking Metal & Steel with a clear, wax-like mark. For general layout marking in a wide variety of applications from marking tailor's seams and weld marking on sheet materials in fabrication industries. I have used it extensively to mark metal work projects - not sure how it would work on leather...