billybopp

Contrary to what some may say, blood on your leather work is NOT a value add feature. You will know that your awl is TRULY sharp when it goes through several thick layers, into your finger and you don't even feel it! And yes, for sure, happy wife - happy life. Take the beating and fake a few tears and ouchies - then walk away and grin! - Bill

Very nice indeed. Love the color combo and edges are fantastic! Thanks for posting progress pics. - Bill

I have seen camo printed leather in the past - at Tandy, if I remember right, so it does exist, so look around! - Bill

Wow. Yeah. That's a LOT of work! The result is spectacular, tho! - Bill

@Wanbli, Some pictures would be helpful, along with more description. How wide, how long are leather strips, etc.

I don't have a leather sewing machine at all, but I do read what others post on here. From what I've seen, the machines are essentially the same between Cobra, Techsew and Cowboy. Cobra Steve, Techsew Ron, and Cowboy Bob all three often pop up on LWN to help their customers, and indeed even help their competitors customers frequently (Which warms my heart and helps restore my faith in humanity). I have never seen any complaints about being unable to get parts or support from any of the three. When comparing them to buy, take a look at what is included in the package so that you are comparing apples to apples. I'd take a look at what shipping costs for the machines you are considering since that could be a big consideration. I'd also think about talking to your local sewing machine mechanic and find out if they have any preference. You'll get great support from any of the three above over the phone and online, but there are those times that you might need hands on your machine kind of help! Also, whichever machine you decide to go with - Use the links at the top of the page here and be sure to tell them you found them here on LWN! Help Johanna keep the lights on here! - Bill

http://wickett-craig.com

As mentioned by @zuludog Tiger thread is a synthetic, and will melt when heated which gives a good way to end a line of stitching: Linen thread is natural and will just burn, so has to be finished differently. Many folks will leave a small section between the edge of two pieces of leather un-glued, and put a knot in their thread between the pieces then glue after sewing is completed. Others will fully glue, backstitch/overstitch their thread, cut it really close and put a dab of white glue on the ends to hold it. Tiger thread is a woven polyester while linen is a twisted thread, so they do behave differently, as you've found particularly where locking the thread to the needle is concerned. Make sure to leave a considerably longer tail with linen and after locking it to your needles wax the daylights out of it to hold it together. A little white glue might to the trick there as well, but I've never tried that. Make sure, too, that when you lock your thread, you do that a couple of inches down from the eye of the needle (no matter what kind of thread you are using!): It makes getting the knots through the hole far easier than when it's all bunched up at the eye of the needle. As for wax, you'll find that Tiger is super-saturated with wax: Far more than even other braided polyesters. That makes it so nice to sew with, but it also means that for a given size it is a little plumper. 0.6mm Tiger is more like 0.8mm for most other waxed braided polyester threads. Most other waxed braided polyesters can benefit from some additional wax rubbed on it before sewing, and the same is true for Linen thread. Hope that helps, and the strap looks really good BTW - and your sewing looks perfect! - Bill

You may not be able to prevent this entirely, but try this: Before you dye your edges, burnish with water and saddle soap. Let it dry, then edge dye. That will lessen the dye absorption from the edge - If saddle soap doesn't do the trick, try a little gum tragacanth. I'd also suggest something a little firmer than a Q-tip - a small foam brush or a little piece of felt held in a clothespin. Make sure that whatever you use isn't too heavily loaded with dye: Just enough to do the job. Hopefully that helps. - Bill

We've always had problems with USPS packages arriving here in Philly. I'd estimate that I only get 90 to 95% of what is shipped, and far far less on time. And of course, they NEVER find missing packages. I expect that will get much worse. - Bill

If gluing isn't something you do all that often - Just open a window and put an exhaust fan there! - Bill

I mentioned above a jig for centering stamps on strips and belts and such - and found a picture of it to share with you. This is the prototype made of hobby plastic sheets - plastruct brand if I remember right, and chicago screws. I also put together an Adobe Illustrator file as a fancy version of this to try to get it laser cut, but it just never happened since the prototype did what I wanted it to do! I may still get a nicer version made from my drawing at some point if I can find somebody that can do laser-work for me! It's pretty simple, really. A self-centering jig within a self-centering jig. I should also make a center "arm" specifically for punching holes (and will at some point). - Bill

In my opinion, they both have their place in leatherworking. For big stamps, such as letter stamps (1/2" and bigger) the deadblow hammer is really nice. You can hit hard enough to leave a good impression without the "bounce" that a regular maul or hammer has so that you don't get an accidental double-strike. Those double-strikes make can make coins more valuable, leather not so much! For smaller tools a lighter poly or rawhide maul or hammer are more suitable, particularly if you need multiple rapid strikes such as used when tooling leather. A deadblow hammer would just cumbersome in that situation. - Bill

The difference is that if you make a tool like that, or a jig - you only have to take the time to get it just right once. If it's something that you do often the time and money spent will pay you back in time and money! I need to make something similar to that for my hole punching - I already made one to help me align letter stamps on straps out of thick plastic (I just don't have the tools to do metal). - Bill

An acrylic finish does a reasonably good job of promoting water resistance (as mentioned above, water proof is not really possible). You also mentioned that you do not want a shiny finish such as Resolene (probably the most popular acrylic finish) yields. A good alternative would be Tandy's Satin Sheen or Angelus acrylic finisher( available in high gloss, Satin, and Matte). - Bill

Every time I use my airbrush I clean it after using a cheap ultrasonic cleaner that I have. Some airbrushes are a pain to disassemble, others not so much. Thankfully, my Paasche and Iwata are both reasonably easy. Never a problem! - Bill

So glad to hear Ferg!! - Bill

I came across this today on YouTube, and thought some might enjoy it.

Outstanding!

Have you ever looked inside a woman's purse? There is NOTHING minimalist about it! All joking aside, minimalist doesn't give you much to work with (by definition). About the only things I can think of to make a minimalist wallet more feminine would be to make it curvier, and aside from that, choice of color. - Bill

The search on here is so-so. Try searching google on this site by putting in what you are searching for, followed by a space then a full colon and site name ... So something like canvas leather bag pattern :leatherworker.net Hope that helps! - Bill

I use a combination of disposable and fixed blades. Whichever better suits the task and way that I'm working at the time. I do find that disposables can usually be made better from the box with a few passes on a fine stone and some stropping, tho. Many of them have visible scratches from factory sharpening, and work much better with just a little work. I don't use expensive stones, just a couple of two-sided water stones mostly - I want to say about $50 or so for both of them. I also have a worksharp guided sharpening system that I used initially as I was learning to sharpen it was a big help in learning how to control the angle. I still use it from time to time when a blade is damaged, as the coarse diamond plate makes quick work of it! - Bill

Wet a thick piece of leather - or even a few layers to make thick - put the rivet head on it and hammer from the backside. The leather will make a form for it that'll work from then on to support the rivet. That little trick works for all sorts of oddly shaped rivets. I set a ton of skull rivets and some others that way. - Bill

There can be a number of reasons, as mentioned lack of electricity for somebody doing mobile repairs, etc. Cost is a big reason too. I'd add to the list space - manual machines are generally smaller and lighter. I'd add noise they are relatively quiet with less noticeable vibration. I'd add control / speed - they just aren't going to run away from you as a motorized machine might. I'm sure there are other reasons as well. - Bill

I wonder if an old washing machine wringer would work for bigger pieces ... Hmmmmm - Bill