billybopp

When you find out just what material they suggest using, let us know! It could be helpful for future reference.

Most of us avoid neetsfoot compound and go with pure neetsfoot oil. It will darken the leather a bit. Put it on somewhat sparingly.

I've made a few guitar straps with a deer hide lining, which is nice and soft with just a little give to it. It gives just a little bit of padding. If you were to find some deer tanned cow that's thicker than deer it would likely give even more padding. Again, not quite as soft as a padded strap, but still a bit softer than veg tanned leather. Mine have been made with the deer hide rough side out to help prevent the strap from sliding around - but you could do it grain side out to give just a bit more "slide". Also, I haven't seen anybody else do it, but I put in a pick pocket on the back side as well - picks are right there when you need 'em. Bill

If you put more than a little neetsfoot oil on the inside it will get on the camera. I've experimented with oiling from the backside on mug straps and have had oil transfer onto the glass after - it would do the same to a camera and its MUCH more expensive lens glass! I'd try going with 2-3 light coats from the outside with a day or so at least between .. and a lot of careful observation to stop at the very first sign that it is soaking through. Bill

I don't know about clicker dies, but - I think I remember reading that HDPE plastic is the material to use - and it's the same material used in plastic cutting boards - Maybe somebody that knows more about clickers can jump in and let us know if this is in fact the right material. Try these (they all have various sizes and thicknesses - and other types of plastic sheet material as well): U.S. Plastic W.W. Grainger McMaster Carr I've been looking at these for the day I finally build a workbench for cutting leather - Hopefully. Hope that helps Bill

A woman that doesn't NEED shoes? You got yourself the definition of a keeper right there!

I only have a home sewing machine and haven't yet jumped into the world of big machines, but as I think about it, it stands to reason that different threads might have different tensioning needs. Sewing machines rely on friction for tensioning, and different threads would likely have different coefficients of friction leading to different results. To some extent top tension and bobbin tension using the same thread would somewhat offset that problem - but if you look at it - the bobbin has a tiny amount or surface area making thread contact in relation to the much larger surface area of the top tensioners, which would likely make them uneven. I suspect that you might find similar but likely smaller differences between manufacturers of the same type of thread - Perhaps they use different bonding agents and processes or have slight differences between thread size. I could be wrong, but maybe one of the real experts can shed more light! Bill

I do the same thing since I find it very hard to exactly center pricking irons on a line. Stitching chisels are a little easier since they have points, but not quite the same thing. I've been contemplating putting two lines, spaced to the width of the pricking iron and make a heavy-ish line to see how that would look - turn it into a feature! Bill

Those look really awesome, and I bet they're darned comfy too! I'd love to have a go at making shoes one of these days. Do you have any suggestions for learning resources? Bill

If your stamp is metal, heat it and then try it - ideally with an arbor press to apply alot of pressure. That's about all I got. Bill

I think the one I have is hard maple, but not sure. It was given to me a long time ago. Bill

I have a wood maul, and gave it a try but found that stamping tools tend to eventually cause it to chip. They fare better when used on woodwork with chisels where there is considerably more striking surface and usually wood or plastic to strike against. Bill

Yeah ... that's often how it starts. LOL. By the time you've got the tools and materials you need, count in the "waste" material that you use in the learning process and everything else, you often find that you've spent more than you would have to just buy something to begin with. BUT, then you wouldn't have had the joy of learning a new skill nor the pride that you take when somebody says "that looks great" and you get to say "THANKS, I made it myself". You can't put a value on that! I can't give any specific advice on pricing, but don't sell yourself short. That's some beautiful work, and if it only took 4 hours to tool you've got some skills. Also, I'd suggest that you keep in mind all the other sneaky little costs involved. It could take another 4 hours of work to produce a plain belt with no tooling at all, once you take into account the time to track down and buy materials - leather, dyes, hardware, thread, tools, paper towels, etc, cut the leather to size, dye it, finish the edges and do all the other things just to make a belt - particularly if you aren't geared up for semi-mass production. If you're doing this as a hobby for beer money that's plenty to keep in mind to help you think about pricing and profit. As NVLeatherWorx suggested, as a business there are other considerations. And there are a number of threads on this site about that subject. While I haven't done leatherwork as a business, I have run other businesses from home - and there are a number of other things that you can think about. To name a few, tools, workbench, educational material, and other capital investments, If you have a shop, rent and such are pretty obvious. Working from home, if you have a dedicated workspace you could include that percentage or your home value as an expense( and you can deduct that on income taxes too), heating, cooling and lighting (also deductable), water and soap that you use to clean up (small but there), Bigger expenses could include health, business, and a portion of homeowners insurance. All that in addition to the above materials costs! There are others, but this will give you some food for thought! Bill

One of the things that I see that may be contributing to the problem is that your tooling isn't very deep. That in itself isn't a problem, but you have to remember - Antique is meant to "settle into" the impressions that your tooling makes, and then excess removed. If you use something like sheeps wool to apply it pretty darn heavily that will help work that antique down deep - but is you use the same sort of sheeps wool to remove it, it will also go pretty deep and likely take off too much. I often use good ol' paper towels folded flat to remove the excess. Deeper tooling can help too, by giving more depth to hold onto that antique - Flip side of that is TOO deep and you can't get the right amount back out. Hope that helps Bill

I recently bought a side of W&C burgundy bridle, and it is just beautiful with essentially no flaws. (Briefcase pictures coming as soon as I finish it). The big advantage of W&C for us "little guys and hobbyists" is that they will sell you a single side, or part of one, without a huge premium on pricing. With HO, we have to buy a minimum amount of one type and thickness which is far more than we're likely to use within a few years - unless we go through a reseller who either charges a premium, or provides "B" grade - or both. Bill

I suspect that the casters and straps provided just enough "give" to allow things to move rather than break. Sometimes, structures can be too rigid which can cause breakage. I'd take the head off to be safe, though, since it's not really hard to do in this case. That will greatly reduce the mass atop the table. Bill

Agreed! I know Brian is quite busy right now, but when the opportunity arises I'd love to see more about this and his other machines! Really creative solutions. I'm curious, in particular, how the rollers are made! Oh ... And I'm NOT entirely sure that Castrol is the best stuff to use for edge coating. :D Bill

Airbrushes are indeed very very handy for many uses. If you already have a compressor, you don't need to spend much to get a usable airbrush that is workable for most things we do as leather workers. A Harbor Freight airbrush will do the job for most things for about $20 or so. You might eventually want a better one, but then again maybe not! If you don't already have a compressor, you can get one that's workable for under $100 AND it's really useful for lots of other things. Pumping up that flat tire, blowing out dirt from refrigerator coils or from behind appliances, blowing up that deflated football, and a few dozen other handy uses. Maybe you can sell that to your higher authority. Bill

I run into the same problem with my little splitter, and have found that you need to pull downward a bit from the front, as Bikermutt mentioned, and also need to keep the leather down a bit from the back as it's feeding in. I keep meaning to put a bar across the back of the splitter to do that but never seem to get around to it. For now, I recruit an extra pair of hands. Bill

That wine box is more expensive but far more fun to buy full then empty yourself. And you get the benefit of corks which are great for protecting your awl blades and holding needles, as well as backing your awl when sewing thinner leathers. Most folks already have straight edges lying around and cutting boards. Just don't let the other half catch you taking from the kitchen. Many tools can be repurposed too. I turned some old beat up sold chisels into my best solving knives with a little work on stones. For awhile I used an old paring knife as well. Bill

Ingenious. You've really come up with a lot of great tools to speed along production and yet still keep things handmade. I'm sure that many of these also have multiple uses. I can see both of these tools in a LOT of applications, and may give a go at something similar using more - uh - home accessible materials. The folder reminds me of a sheet metal brake. Bill

I would be surprised if Ohio Travel Bag did not have these. Bill

Maybe this will help: Lisa Sorrell has a few videos on lasts and sizing. Bill

Take a look at Birkenstocks. Their sandals have the straps cut from a single piece on each side. You wouldn't necessarily need to do that for all straps, but is you combine the topmost strap and heel-strap, that would eliminate the stitching / riveting at the join. Bill

Fiebings is in the process of removing the word oil from these dyes because it is very confusing. It is the pigment that is oil based/synthetic. The dye is alcohol based, and should be diluted with alcohol although some have reported success with water. I use 90% isopropyl with good results. Bill