Didn't see it on your site, JLS, but if you've got a Ruger Mk I, I'll take you up on your offer! I'd try making my own pattern, but have never made a holster before, so a pattern is probably a good way to start!
Bill
Totally agreed on Seiwas. I have #1, #2, and #3, with #2 as my goto for 0.8mm polybraid, and usually for 1.0mm as well. The handles aren't the greatest ... I'm very tempted to cut mine apart now and fins something that's both a little sturdier and fits my hand a little better!
Bill
I've seen similar greenish or bluish colors ... It seems to be some component of the dye that floats to the surface, and usually happens when the dye it put on heavy. Not completely sure what it is or what causes it, but It does rub off, tho.
Bill
I still prefer using a wine cork. Mostly because you get to drink a bottle of wine to get one.
A couple of other things that can help with getting through thick pieces in addition to sharp, your awl should be highly polished over it's entire working surface so that there is less friction against the already cut leather that it's moving through. Some folks also keep a cake of bees wax at hand and plunge the awl into it now and then to provide a little lubrication. You may not want to use that method, however, if you intend to dye after stitching since the wax might not allow dyes to penetrate.
It's probably also worth noting that the shape of the awl blade could be a factor as well!
Bill
You might find it easier to set a blade, french edger, or something in a vise ... improvise something ... and move the leather against the fixed blade, rather than move the blade around the leather.
Bill
I think I'd replace the strap ...carefully ... and put the old one aside. That is one awesome horse .. and an even more awesome heirloom, made all the better by usability!
FIrst and foremost, make sure your awl is sharp, sharper, sharpest. and the leather is well supported. Aside from that, this video is a pretty decent guide ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lCFTDqQaEIc
Bill
Here is about the best reference I've seen about sewing machine needles points that I've seen. http://www.campbell-randall.com/wp-content/uploads/SCHMETZ-leather-needles.pdf
Hope you find it helpful.
Bill
With an airbrush, it's dead easy to do. And the only way to get a transition as even and smooth as in your picture. You can get something similar with a barely damp sponge/cloth and build up the darker edge .. but it's harder to do, and nearly impossible to do that well.
P.S. Drunk monkeys are a LOT of fun. I used to have a squirrel monkey as a pet. She used to sit on my shoulder and HAD to get a drink of anything that I was drinking. She was particularly fond of tequila sunrises, and terribly entertaining when trying to climb the curtains so that she could sit atop the curtain rod and watch what all was going on.
Bill
If you are having a hard time getting the stitching chisel back out of the leather after punching through, some polishing on the "tines" might be in order. Some of them come pretty rough out of the box.
Bill
Chisel tooth (hole) sizes are not all the same. Some are decidedly more "chunky" than others. You will find some information about that here ... http://www.armitageleather.com/shop/4583584113
Download the(free) PDF file found on that page.
Hope that helps
Bill