YinTx

I'll PM you a link. It's Russian birch tar, so if anyone can read the label and clarify what it is? YinTx

Huh first time I saw the photo, I thought they were contrast painted, and I liked it lol. Nice work, I like the tooled handle and the liner is a nice touch. YinTx

Absolutely outstanding. A lot of hours must have gone into that! YinTx

@Otzi, I was mildly interested in trying some out, but can you clarify the price justification? It seems I can get a 10 oz bottle elsewhere for ~$26, 10 oz from you would be $350. It would seem if I was making products, this could make them even more expensive than they already are, and thus harder for me to sell. But is there something that makes one birch oil better than another? Thanks for the info, YinTx

Interesting stuff. Any samples of using it on leather, and how it should be applied? YinTx

Neat. I've left edges unpainted and unburnished before because I felt it matched the item that way, and have received a lot of static over it. I wouldn't change the items tho, so keep your artistic license despite the naysayers. YinTx

Hard to sell a used book in this environment! But, alas, Sold! YinTx

Sold, Thank you! YinTx

Thats pretty awesome. Neat machines! YinTx

Thanks for your interest, PM replied. YinTx

$45 plus shipping for the whole kit n kaboodle. All 20 of em. Like just over $2 per pricking iron. I thought it was, but they are still available! If they don't sell soon, I may keep the 10 tooth irons. Would be awesome for straps and belts! Here is a comparison photo vs. a Blanchard iron (which is not currently for sale...) so you can see the angle and spacing similarities: I'd venture to say the teeth on the Aiskaer irons are better polished than the ones on the Blanchard, which are a bit rough in my opinion. YinTx

Belt is awesome, I'd change up the buckle and put in a loop myself. But very cool! YinTx

I have complete sets of Aisker stitching chisels in sizes 3mm, 4mm, 5mm and 6mm. 1, 2, 4, 6 and 10 prongs on the 3mm size, there is a broken tooth on the 10 prong iron and a broken tooth on the 2 prong iron. 1, 2, 4 and 6 tooth in the 4mm size. 1, 2, 4 and 6 tooth in the 5mm size. 1, 2, 4 and 6 tooth in the 6mm size. There is also a set of unmarked but matching 10 prong irons in 4mm, 5mm and 6mm. Asking $45 plus shipping, which is 50% of new price. YinTx

Thanks for your interest, it sold the day before your post, sorry about that. YinTx

Nicely done. YinTx

+1 and cool tag! YinTx

Bah. Tried sharpening again, stropping, it's worse. Worked better yesterday. I wouldn't think there would be skill in applying a stone on these things, but apparently there is. Will order a smoother stone Monday. YinTx

It is a framing square, the one side is 1," so if you read the inside dimension, you will have to add the 1," so yes, 2 1/4" total. The skiver does hinge back, I did that for the previous measurements. Not necessary for this one, I try to avoid it since I have to remove screws from the base to remove the drive belt to allow it to hinge (as far as I know), and one of them has already stripped out the wood. YinTx

@RockyAussie, I think this is the dimension you are looking for. YinTx

I did run some leather through before I did the good leather, but I guess I should have asked for clarity. What characteristics would define a decent behaving leather? I should be able to get your dimensions later this evening. YinTx

There was a much older thread on LW showing this video. Judging by the "lines" on the skived section of my leather, my blade may still be a bit dull. Might be time to get a better stone for it. Anyone comment on the techniques used here?

Oh snap. I knew I missed one. Next time I'm there I'll see if I can get it. YinTx

@RockyAussie, here are some dimensions for you on the Cobra NP-4. Let me know if there is another you need... bottom opening side 1 bottom opening side 2 opening radius table thickness dimension from base of machine to bell bottom (note that divisions in this photo only are in 1/12's of an inch, not 1/8's or 1/16's) dimension of a "shop vac" hose YinTx

I'll try to get you some measurements if I can. It would seem to be a pretty simple thing to make it retractable? Would hate to have a spark fly into a pile of leather powder and set off a fire 2 hours later... Or perhaps a spark arrestor but I'd think it might be more difficult to implement. I had some success yesterday. First, here is the bad: leather goes through without skiving at all, then at the end, bites in and takes out a chunk. You can see where the blade went along without removing anything, then at the end, cuts in. So, I got to thinking sometimes it's the simple things that are the solution. This was simple: So, even though I had tried a couple of times already, I went at it again. This time I really dug in there with the ceramic rod on the inside of the bell to make sure I wasn't being too delicate in the past. Viola, all of a sudden it acted like a whole new machine! Here is the result, I was able to skive very fast, the feedwheel pulled the leather in without any assistance or needing to place it under the foot before lowering the foot. The only issue I have right now is where it takes a chunk out at the end when the skive overlaps. Do I need to reduce the feedwheel tension/pressure to alleviate this? YinTx

I'll try to get you some measurements if I can. It would seem to be a pretty simple thing to make it retractable? Would hate to have a spark fly into a pile of leather powder and set off a fire 2 hours later... Or perhaps a spark arrestor but I'd think it might be more difficult to implement. YinTx