Tugadude

No idea, but I will say that it is much easier to cut from a piece of leather that isn't curling upwards. And since every time I cut from leather it is grain side up, the bend facilitates that or at least doesn't hinder it.

Well I'd say it turned out! Very nice indeed.

The link came up for me right away. I wonder if it is something with your security? Funny that the reviews of the tool are horrible. It has 1 star rating and lot's of people whining about it.

It isn't the snaps. I've had the same issues with all sorts of snaps and have come to the conclusion it is difficult to keep them perfectly straight when setting them. A press, designed for the task is helpful in reducing problems. If the leather is thin and there is a lot of post exposed the issue becomes even worse. I've seen videos on youtube that offer suggestions on how to reduce or eliminate the problem. You might try searching for some there.

I don't know whether you saw this other thread but it might be helpful. I'm interested too. I don't know how much success folks have had with typical soldering irons. Certainly adding a rheostat would be helpful.

Like anything, it takes practice and some skill, but airbrushing can be a great way to go. I've seen some beautiful dye jobs that would be difficult to duplicate without an airbrush. Some like to apply Resolene and similar products, with a air gun. So it doesn't have to be restricted to dyes. Regarding penetration, it will be equal to anything short of dip-dyeing, I'd expect. This project isn't mine, but a good example of what you can accomplish. And by the way, there are tutorials on youtube by folks that know how to use the equipment.

For reviews and recommendations on various irons both pricking and stitching chisels, go to Nigel Armitage's web page. https://armitageleather.com/product/pricking-iron-review/

Chuck, I have a set of the Tandy fine diamond 3.5mm irons also and I really like them. I haven't had any issues with them. I didn't polish the tines, but I use a wood block to help pull them out if they get stuck, which is somewhat rare. I posted a topic somewhere on this forum about those irons and the size down from that.

JLS said... "where's the british gal usedta come around here.... beautiful stitching at like 11 to the inch... can't remember what her name was now ..." You probably mean Valerie Michael, and her work is world-renowned.

To each his/her own but chisels rock in my opinion. They might not be for everyone and for every project, but they can help beginners and intermediates create a much better row of stitching than they otherwise could with an awl. The advantages of the traditional awl are well established and all things being equal, projects where an awl is used will be stronger. But, and there's always a but, all of my work is wallets, watch straps, small bags and the like and they aren't going to need the strength of stitch as horse tack, for example. When I began in leatherwork there were just a couple of companies making stitching chisels and now there are dozens and dozens. There's a reason and that's because they work. You still have to practice with them, but like I said, in a relatively short period of time almost anyone can turn out a nice-looking and functional stitch.

I didn't think you were. And you ask some really good questions. Here's some answers based on what I've experienced. when do you use a cast? It really does nothing on very thin, pliable leather, so I never do it then. If anything I found it counterproductive due to the amount of tension it created. I always use it on thicker projects of overall 4 oz. layers and up. And as stated previously, it does help the slant on the backside of your work. Some don't care if their stitching slants, but I do. how do you determine spacing? To me it depends on the overall size of the item. Small items demand tighter spacing and smaller thread to keep from looking chunky. Too much thread on too small an article just looks bad to me. I have one set of chisels at 2.7mm and I really like that for watch straps and wallets. For notebooks and such, 3.5mm seems to work really nicely. I have some 5mm chisels which I find helpful on turned bags because if you line the bag you don't see the stitching anyway. how do you determine size of thread? Aesthetics mainly. I know what I like and choose the size of iron and thread accordingly. Nigel Armitage has a great set of reviews on his website in which he recommends what type of thread goes well with each tool reviewed. I don't like chunky stitching. But I don't like seeing too much of the hole either, so it can be a compromise. In general I find myself using 0.6mm and 0.8mm bonded polyester mostly. And yes, when going around corners you want to put a round hole in the corner and measure carefully both directions so the "corner" stitches are identical. If you need to cheat, do it somewhere along the stitch line, but never in the corner where it will be very obvious.

In any endeavor there are people who appreciate things that others simply don't. How many threads have there been about how to finish the edges of leather projects? Tons. And many are happy to leave raw edges, so there's that. Some describe multi-step processes for their edges which include cutting, edging, sanding, waxing, buffing, sealing and coating, etc., etc. And others are happy to just apply a bit of water and saddle soap and rub it with some canvas. And so stitching is similar in that some take great pains while others don't. In my case, I floundered around and was able to improve the look of my stitching to where it didn't look hideous, but I still wasn't satisfied. And then I stumbled upon Nigel Armitage's youtube channel and it changed all of that. Suddenly I got the idea of what is supposed to happen and more importantly, how to achieve it. What was once somewhat unpredictable became consistent. I went from wanting to de-emphasize my stitching to wanting to use contrasting colored thread in order for it to stand out more. And while the improvement was immediate, I'm still learning and improving. Every project is different and has specific requirements. I've also experimented with different stitching irons and found some conducive to certain projects and others not so much. Same with thread composition and sizing. I have a phrase I use that I think encompasses the difficulty in acquiring the various skills and it is "there is no microwave for experience". Experience is required and it takes time. Everyone starts somewhere and some take less time to master things but everyone spends time doing it. And the more you do, the faster the results, assuming you know how to make adjustments along the way. You also may discover short-cuts which allow for better results with less work. Work smarter, not harder, etc. Regarding the comments about youtube, I obviously disagree. The proof is in the pudding and Nigel's video had a big impact on my ability to execute a proper stitch. Are there bad videos on youtube? Of course. But that doesn't mean they are all useless. I still watch videos about leather techniques. Sometimes 99% of the video covers stuff I already know, but it is that other 1% that makes all the difference. If I pick up one little tip or trick, I consider it worthwhile.

Good on them. Random acts of kindness and generosity should be acknowledged and I'm glad you did just that.

There is a lot more to saddle stitching than simply passing the needles through the leather and dragging some thread along for the ride. There are fine points to it and the results are easy to detect when you know what you are looking at. Knowing how to get the best aesthetics out of a row of stitching takes trial and error. Knowing when to use a "cast" or not and even being able to determine which spacing to use, size of thread, etc., all goes into the mix.

Hermann Oak has a website packed with lots of useful information about their products. They also have folks you can call or email that will give you specific answers. They also have some videos of their production which may help. http://www.hermannoakleather.com/ This is their process and is on their website: When you think about cost, just look at the number of steps it takes to provide a high quality leather. TANNING PROCESS

I would say the only way to guarantee consistency in leather products is to use an opaque finish. In effect, you are putting a pigmented coating over the whole surface. Nearly all of the high-end, popular purses on the market are done that way. Plus, they order in humongous batches. Buying leather and dying it yourself is going to be inconsistent. You may get lucky and/or have developed the ability to control the inconsistencies somewhat, but they'll still be there. Leather is a natural product to begin with and then you have the types of tanning and finishing into the mix and there's just a lot of moving parts. The best way to prevent variation on a specific item is to make it out of one piece of leather. Even then there can be variation, but it's your best hedge against it. Many companies include a disclaimer in their advertising which explains the issue. That way when the wallet you receive doesn't look exactly like the one you saw on your computer screen you know why.

Once again a smart idea I've never heard of. Thanks for sharing it.

I don't think any have given the "trick", which if you study the following picture shows clearly what you want to happen. Yes, you twist the thread to open the strands, but you should pierce the thread twice, that's the key in my opinion. If you do it once, it tends to come off after a little while.

I'd use waxed or wax it yourself and I would use 1.0mm thread on something of that weight and that needs to perform in a "surefire" manner. Pun intended.

Tri-folds seem to be less popular in general. I know they are with me. They can end up quite thick if you're not careful. There's also more examples and patterns out there for bi-folds of various configurations. You can find some templates on the forum, check in the area dealing with patterns and templates. As far as difficulty, to me they aren't any more difficult to make, but you do need to take care with the folds if you want it to look symmetrical and tidy. Here's one that I found pretty quickly...

$2.99 if you have a wholesale account at Springfield Leather Co.

Yes, thanks for informing the community!

Casing the leather properly is equally important. Make sure you study the proper methods to ensure the best results.

This one is spendier, but will do the job. 5 1/2" wide leather. https://tandyleather.com/products/deluxe-leather-splitter?_pos=6&_sid=e213dcde5&_ss=r This one from Springfield Leather is around 2 bills... https://www.springfieldleather.com/Splitter-Bench

I'd say that guy has a leg up on the other hunters.