dikman

A long time ago I bought a small ratchet handle that takes 1/4" bits and found it very useful on sewing machines.

When I made a motorized bobbin winder I needed a thread guide for it but wanted it adjustable. Looking in one of my junk boxes I found the legs off a cheap camera tripod, fitted a wooden block with a couple of eyebolts on the top and attached it to the base of the winder. It worked so well that I made a free-standing one so that I could use the large spools with a portable machine. Extends high enough to let the thread unwind easily.

Thanks guys. At this stage I think I'll give it a miss as it's way out on the northern side of town. I'll keep an eye on the ad, if it doesn't sell I might offer half price but it still seems like a bit of a risk sight unseen.

Saw this advertised for $300. Photos lack some detail, but it looks like the shuttle/bobbin is missing and there is some damage to the top of the head? Anyone with more knowledge care to give me their thoughts re-getting it working (maybe)?

Actually, I think you're right, although I haven't seen them there for a while. The one I was trying to think of - the cable crews used something similar on the cables when hauling communications cables through underground ducts. I remember it looked interesting, but back then couldn't think of any other use for it!

If you're in the US the simplest solution would be to contact one of the advertisers on here. A 3/4 hp (550W) would be more than adequate. It doesn't have to be a Consew motor, most any brand servo would work.

Nice job, Constabulary (as are the others). A stand-alone winder is great as you can wind anytime, anywhere without needing a machine. I use a belt drive like lee as it gives that bit more speed reduction. I like those socks. I've seen them somewhere else but can't remember where.

Too clean and tidy! How can you find anything? That table of Darren's doesn't look that difficult to make (maybe one day...). As for the motor, mounted underneath the tabletop as per normal I guess.

Regarding the belt, I would just cut through between the holes to make a slot, then you can use standard belts. It will be much easier in the long run.

That's very nice, Darren, and the sort of thing I had in mind.

Now THAT is what I call Customer Service (something that appears to be slowly disappearing in this day and age). I am currently embroiled in a dispute with a very large internet service provider here (4 weeks so far), and their customer service is non-existent, exactly the opposite of your experience - the (non)help desk is manned by Indians (NOT US-indians) if that means anything! It is very refreshing to hear of such excellent service. Kudos to Cobra Steve.

Guess you definitely need a discount coupon with that one.........

That's a standard clutch-type motor you have there. If you have to do long stitch runs then that will make it fly - once you learn to control it!

You Americans are so used to "promo" codes that you think it applies everywhere. There are some things where they don't need to provide them, this is one. You'll still enjoy the machine.

$75 ?!! Bargain! 1/4 HP motor? Sounds a bit small.

That's ok, the memory starts to go as you get older .

Rocky, on my 335 raising the doo-hickey (technical term) on top doesn't have any effect on the outer spring, as the spring pushes against the top of the housing regardless of the doo-hickey's position. All it does is change how much additional tension can be applied via the inner spring. Gregg, what you say makes sense, although I don't know if that's what they do.

LD, a pretty compact solution, all that weight should make it quite stable. Mess? What mess? Evo, that is also an interesting stand. Great solutions, people, I love seeing what others come up with.

. Well, I'm prepared to give it a good home where it will be appreciated and let it see the light of day! Anyhow, I got curious and just had a closer look at mine. The outer spring is fixed and is non-adjustable, the inner spring provides the adjustment (not that it seems to make much difference in the normal setup). The mod you did, however, can allow the inner spring to have more effect. By raising that "sleeve" it reduces the tension applied by the inner spring when the adjusting screw is all the way out so when you adjust the top screw it should have more effect. Of course, to get the best out of it an awfully long screw will be needed . Seeing that I haven't really been able to find a screw with the right thread size I might run a tap through to use a more standard size and then make a decent adjuster, now that I know how it works.

Poor little machine, all neglected and lonely in the dim dark recesses of that storage container.

Well done, sounds like a good deal! I found this link, might be of some use?

Sharp eyes, Yetibelle! I ended up with a few welt-type feet, so I ground one set down to give me flat feet. Quicker than waiting for delivery from overseas.

I went shooting last Saturday and we were sitting around talking. One of the guys said he's been looking at/researching sewing machines (because of what I've been telling him) and is slowly coming to grips with the terminology. I laughed and told him to be careful as they can become highly addictive!

I reckon you did real good! Trust me, you really need to ditch that motor for a servo, that thing is rated at 3500 rpm and even if you fit speed reducing pulleys it will be far too fast for a newbie to try and control. Trust me, I've been there, done that (and mine was rated at 1725 rpm!). As for the needles, depending what you want to sew they may work fine for you, no harm in experimenting.

It was pointed out to me that the pressure screw was missing on my 335 when I posted pics here, so I found something that would fit to replace it. Funnily enough, it didn't seem to make any difference to foot pressure, so I figured I needed the correct screw. From what Uwe said it now appears it was missing because it didn't make any difference. Now I'm curious to find exactly what, if anything, does affect the foot pressure.