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dikman

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Everything posted by dikman

  1. It was 8 years ago so was likely 2 years back then and has changed since.
  2. If you're not familiar with BLO be careful disposing of any rags soaked in the stuff, they can self combust! Do a search on the 'net.
  3. After reading all this my brains hurt.........
  4. Many many years ago I was making a wooden carrying case for a rifle and lined it with foam. I used Selley's contact cement (most commonly used contact glue then) to glue the foam and after spending a long time leaning over the case gluing it all in I was feeling very........strange! A salutary lesson about using such glues.
  5. Don't overthink it. The commonly used Lillywhite sewing machine oil is basically hydraulic fluid (oil), from memory around ISO 66. I couldn't get ISO 66 locally when I was looking so I bought a slightly heavier ISO rating and it works fine. Or you could make up your own concoction like kgg did. Auto trans fluid is very versatile, btw, I've used it to lubricate clock mechanisms and clean/lubricate my rifle barrels.
  6. Probably why they developed Goretex and similar materials? Seems to me that any glue applied between two layers of leather is likely to clog the "pores" of said leather. Otherwise there would be no bonding between the layers.
  7. I gather it's pretty good stuff and thought I'd give it a try - until I found out the price!! So I'm sticking to "regular" contact glue (as a bonus it makes me happy while using it ).
  8. ......but I reckon you probably earned every cent of it!
  9. That sounds like a brutal form of punishment!!!
  10. Very, very nice! The winner is going to have something special. Stamping that pattern must have taken a while.
  11. That would also be a good idea for something like a beveller where you're following curves, although I think for a beveller it would be better to make it permanent, i.e. a very tight force fit.
  12. Like Al I'm not a fan of the look of it, to me it lacks the "warmth" of the old layout, but that's purely my opinion, if it makes it easier for others to use then I guess it's something to take into account.
  13. Amazing how just adding the coloured header is making it feel like an old friend.
  14. Johanna, you deserve a medal for all your effort! This is arguably THE best resource on the 'net for leatherworkers. As for the "new look" it threw me into a spin at first, I wondered what Windoze had stuffed up now! While it's a "clean" look I'm eagerly awaiting the return of the old one, it feels more like an old friend.
  15. Sewing machine servos look small because the electronics are in a separate housing, if it was all combined as one unit they would be considerably bulkier (like your Efka). This modular approach would be cheaper to make but also gives flexibility in mounting (makes it possible to mount the motor on top of the table if you want to).
  16. I suppose you could use the pricking irons to punch your holes and then use an awl in conjunction with your needles?
  17. If you know anyone with a lathe it would be easy to make.
  18. Using wood for a leatherwork cutting board can be a bit problematic compared to using it for a kitchen cutting board. In the kitchen grain in the wood doesn't matter but cutting shapes from leather can be tricky if the knife tries to follow the grain. A very dense hardwood should reduce that possibility but dense hardwoods are probably the worst for damaging a blade edge (just ask a woodturner who turns hardwoods!!). Conversely a softer wood will be gentler on the edge but the blade will tend to dig in and try to follow any grain. So you may not like it but synthetic materials generally make the best cutting surfaces, but if you must use wood I guess MDF is probably the best bet (although MDF is made using synthetic resins so can't be called a "natural" material).
  19. Nice! There's some useful looking stamps there.
  20. You're an ideas man, I see, that could work!
  21. Cool, I'm looking forward to seeing them.
  22. Anything you want to know about Juki machines, kgg's the man! He's had a wee bit of experience with them.
  23. I would think unscented is the way to go. Many people like a "leather smell" to their items, not scented, plus not everyone might like the scent you choose so won't buy it. My advice, keep it neutral.
  24. https://sunvalleytrading.com.au/ Damas, these are the folks who sell these parts and can help you out (where I got mine from).
  25. A bit over-the-top.....but it suits the knife! Very nice work.
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