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Everything posted by fredk
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In the UK some business' show the price of goods including tax, and some don't, eg Le Prevo Leather. But in the end everyone pays that same VAT [tax] and no extra. Some business' can reclaim VAT paid on the stuff they bought. An example; one of the business I owned published magazines and booklets. We paid VAT [tax] on film, processing, cameras, computers et cetera, but magazines are 0 rated so I could claim back all the VAT I'd paid out. When I sold the magazines into other European Union countries they did not [with one exception] impose any tax on the magazine even tho they had a tax on mags produced in their country What I'm reading here is the US States are acting like individual countries, not as members of one great big country, with free-trade between States but imposing 'import & export' tariffs. Whereas the individual countries of Europe are acting like they are part of one country with free flow of trade and recognising that VAT paid in one member country is tax paid All this must really stifle any growth in any small business. It sounds like the amount of paperwork needed just to sell to someone in another state is a real burden and I guess the IRS is rather unforgiving of mistakes. We joke that our IR&C are hard nosed and bandits but they aren't bad really
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aye, you could be right. Its still well above what most small business' make though and I forgot, you lot have local council taxes, which we don't have,
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We have basically one tax. Called V.A.T. - Value Added Tax. Four rates in UK, 20% on nearly everything, 5% on fuels like coal, electricity, 0% on books and such and 'exempt' on things like food and baby clothes. Business' only levies and collects VAT when their turnover is above a certain amount = about £35,000 p/a afair Big Limited companies pay a Corporation Tax on profits but small business' like your 'mom & pop' shops do not. Brick and mortar business also pay 'rates' a local tax for town/city services As a small business working from home the only tax I have to pay is on my earned income. I remember being stuck in an area of New York [called Jamaica !] years ago. I was in-between flights and for reasons I was down to my last $10. I went to a McD for a meal. Most everything was priced at 99c. Great, I thought. So I worked out a meal costing about $6 - as I thought, but it cost me $9.80 or so with all the local, city and state taxes added!
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Probably not what they actually are and depending on their size, they look like the hooks we used to use to carry a brace of shot game birds home. Tied the legs of the birds together, hook that tie over the metal hook and the whole lot could be hung from a belt, shot bag or off a hook in the back of the the Landy
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Two things; 1. use a block of cork on the inside and push the awl thru into that 2. use an auto-awl, like this one: https://www.tandyleather.eu/en/product/sewing-awl-kit Edited to add, the auto-awl can be bought a great deal cheaper than the Tandy price. eg; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Leather-Hand-Single-Stitch-Sew-Sewing-Awl-Tool-Needle-Stitching-With-Thread-LS/223290518779?hash=item33fd26ecfb:g:HmIAAOSwyupa3sNz
- 9 replies
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- saddle stitch
- veg tan
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(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
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and here its most commonly available in small sizes, under 3mm i/d afair
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Done, I PM'd you a copy
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yeah, like I can see you're no good at this 'ere stamping & carving work, ah, it looks grand anyhows
- 23 replies
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- floral carving
- tooling
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Thanks. I'd try making a milk-bottle-maul but I don't have any of the tools for finishing it off, nor access to the tools
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what I really wanna know is, how many milk jugs are needed!?!
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seems to be a dead link. I PM'd you a copy
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May I plead - lets cool it folks, before this may escalate into personal attacks
- 23 replies
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- floral carving
- tooling
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Other than having two sets of letters A few methods, using word BOOK 1. Do B, then O, use a Q as a spacer, do K, leave K in place, remove Q and replace with O, and if necessary place Q over first O 2. Use an alignment frame, like this; https://www.tandyleather.eu/en/product/leather-stamp-guide Mark where the side of the first O block would be against the second O. Hand stamp each letter, move O over to the marks and stamp. I use a jig like this or one made of thick card for use under my press. I align all the letters needed, for a duplicate letter I put in a letter block the same size. I remove that letter block, cover the rest with a piece of steel plate and press. I then move the duplicate letter into place and press again. Thats how I did something with the name ROGER on it ~ although the R is on the ends the name had to be aligned and set inside a design so I needed to use a letter blank on the end
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Strongest Adhesion But Most Flexible Contact Cement For Leather
fredk replied to Toddo's topic in How Do I Do That?
Dunno bout you, I plan to be around for a looooong time yet! -
Here in N.I. car electricians use a heat shrink with heat activated glue inside. Its rather the standard h/s at suppliers now.
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Strongest Adhesion But Most Flexible Contact Cement For Leather
fredk replied to Toddo's topic in How Do I Do That?
I have. But you need to go back about 1000 years to find out how its made. It was used on some Viking leather items found in excavations in Dublin. It wasn't in the remit of the arckies to discover what the glue is/was, all they could say was it seemed to be pine tree tar and propolis and 'other' constituents btw, I agree that felt is wrong for the lining -
Perhaps your heat shrink didn't shrink down far enough? I use h/s which has an i/d close to the o/d of the tool, that way it shrinks down real tight
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Rather than glue, use double sided adhesive tape. It will hold the leather securely and after peeling the leather off the remains of the adhesive tape can be removed with WD40. WD40 will dissolve the adhesive without damaging the laptop case
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Have you tried thinning it waaaaaaaaaaay down, like 5 or 6 water to 1 dye. Then dipping, if you can, and building up the colour by successive dips, allowing the item to dry a bit in between dips?
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Mark a set of lines across using a pointed marker pen then cut with a jewellers 3-square file. Then mark the counter lines and cut again with the 3-square
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I went to a Tandy* once and checked over some leather. A lot of their leather was stored on shelves in a shop, in direct sunlight and high warmth. The leather was all as stiff as thick cardboard or mdf. imo it should not be. Even the thickest should be flexible. With the Tandy stuff I could not bend 2.5mm leather without it starting to crack - that is way too dry. I have all thickness of leather and I can bend them right back on themselves with never a crack. I have the last piece of a 3.5/4mm water buffalo hide which is now about 12 years old; it has cracked where it is folded over, but other than that area the rest is still flexible and useable Adding nfo to very dry leather aint gonna do much, it can help slightly dry leather or to replace oils lost during dyeing and casing Use what you have on simple projects but I'd advise getting top quality leather from another supplier. Others might join in here and advise you on suppliers in your area. Using poor quality leather can frustrate you, it'll throw up problems for you. With good quality leather you'll be encouraged to do more * there is only one Tandy anywhere near me
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A. it is labour intensive, but I believe any job worth doing needs taking time over, sure I'll take short-cuts to speed up work, but not if the end result suffers b. my beeswax/nfo/carnauba wax mix is quite hard, almost as hard as straight beeswax. A 50/50 sort of mix like yours I only use to feed leather, then use the harder mix on it. c. my method is simple. I lay the belt/strap on my work bench. on the flesh side, I apply wax mix to about 4 or 6 inches using a bit of denim or linen cloth. I rub it in hard, then do another 4 or 6 inches until I get to the end of the belt. Then I start again, applying less wax mix, but to both sides of the belt. On the third time, I use a clean rag to rub the belt/strap, buffing it hard, section by section, one side at a time. On the fourth time I use a shoe-polishing brush to buff the belt along its length, each side. Fifth time I use a soft rag to buff the belt. I keep checking this for any dye rub off, happy to say usually there is none. Sixth time, the belt/strap is pulled through my hand a few times. I have a clean soft cloth in my hand for this. As I do this I can work the leather to make sure its flexible and the edges are well rounded. d. the heat generated by the rubbing in and buffing is usually enough to soften and melt the wax mix. Only in very cold weather [ie summer here] do I use something like a hairdryer to soften the wax mix e. my times mentioned above are kinda guesses, I've never actually timed it. f. basically the same process for a bag, but most parts need doing before assembly hth
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Where did you get the leather? It looks like it could be some old dried out stuff. Good leather needs only a small amount of neatsfoot oil to feed it after dyeing. A wipe over with a sponge dampened with nfo can be enough A couple of things which could have prevented the glue from sticking, a: too much nfo and b: it looks like one surface is smooth grain [?] Glue don't like smooth grain, you need to rough it up some with 40 or 60 grade sandpaper. Even burnished flesh side needs roughed up some The cracking on the loops is leather too dried out and you probably [I'm guessing] did not wet the loop before bending it over
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Stem length should be about 3mm longer than the thickness of the leather. Too short and the rivet will not set, ie join, properly and the head could come off under strain. Too long and the stem has nowhere to go within the head so it bends over displacing the head from where you want it. Use a head size according to the strain which might be put on the rivet. The stem length can be cut shorter to suit. Its easy enough to cut For decorative purposes I use 4mm head, for joining lightweight leather which is also stitched I use 6mm head, but usually I use 8 to 10mm head. Afair the guige to shield rivet [above photos] was an 11 or 12mm head and the other was a 9mm. Basically you want a wide head to spread any staining load or the leather will pull out round the head, like a Sam Brown stud. A double-head ready rivet is just a single head type with a head cover over the base of the stem, it plays no part in altering the strength of the rivet, but it does make it look better if both sides of the rivet can be seen, also, I've found that the base of a single-head type can split and have a sharp edge so the head cap covers that, less chance of hurting anyone. I only use double-head rivets now. Slightly more expensive but worth it, imo
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A. its as Matt says B. A lot of 'experts' don't know what they are talking about. Correctly set rapid rivets are as strong as any rivet. I've been using them for nearly 20 years and I've never had one fail yet. One primary use I've used them on is on medieval type shields. The shields get used in full contact fights. They get thrown, literally, around by their straps. Never has a rivet failed. Here's a close up of a guige riveted to the wood shield. This particular shield spent 7 days fighting at Bannockburn 4 years ago. The rivet on the right was whacked with a flat face hammer on a flat anvil. The middle one was set using a setting bar on the anvil. the one on the left is not a rivet but a snap for easy removal of the guige. The guige from a different shield which was also used at Bannockburn. 7 days of full contact fighting, the shield being thrown around by its straps. These 'experts' just keep repeating what other 'experts' have said - they've probably never actually used rapid rivets and they just perpetuate the myth that a rapid rivet is not strong whereas in my experience they are strong.