fredk

If you polish it up well enough the wax wont come off. I always do belts this way and I've never had a problem with wax coming off. I wear one of my own belts, no wax has ever come off on my clothes. The wax mix has to be well worked in, buffed with a cloth then with brushes, then with a cloth again. Its not something which can be done in 10 minutes. It might take me 30 minutes or more to do one gent's size belt, an hour or more to do the inside parts of a small bag.

With the backs of items which need the backs looking good; fuzzy or not, after I dye it I melt and rub in a bee'swax / neetsfoot oil mix which is mostly bee'swax with some carnauba wax, the nfo is just to soften it a wee bit. It takes plenty of rubbing in and buffing but I can get the fuzzy back almost as good as the grain side

Contrary to everyone else - I like a stitch grove, not always, but often I have a standard adjustable one which I got a long time ago. I never really liked that one, never got on with it. http://www.leprevo.co.uk/photos/adjust_groover.html A few years ago I bought this set from China. I now prefer it https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5in1-Leather-Craft-Edge-Stitching-Groover-Creaser-Beveller-Pro-Punch-Sewing-Tool-/263452199132?hash=item3d56f988dc Its easier to adjust. Note that in the first one the cutter is on the arm, but on the second the arm is the edge alignment guide. Means the second one can be used free-hand easier btw; two methods of sharpening the groove cutter. 1. use teeth-flossing cord. 2. rub some toothpaste into thin strong thread and use that. Run either back-and-forth through the hole. The tooth-flossing cord will cut faster. (afir a prisoner escaped a prison by cutting thru the iron bars with flossing cord)

aye, a more concise description would really help. A photo or three of a bag like the one you want even if its not exactly the same I have several patterns for 'bags'; one might be right, or none

mmm, that be a good question. If its real fuzzy I'd say; slicked. If its already smoothish and just needs more smoothing then its; burnished

Edges can be slicked or burnished; usually slicked The surface face can be burnished but not slicked

That doesn't work on my computer system Thank you for that

That looks very much very excellent. It has a bit of a 'rustic' look to it. Not a criticism by any means, I see some uneveness in the plain circular border; that shouts out to me - hand-made, - not made by an impersonal machine somewhere

Well put. I concur. I'll not rise to the bait to answer his posts T'is but a pity he ruins every thread he posts on. In this one it is drawing attention from the pocket protectors, which I still consider very nicely made with attention to their utility and long-life Edit; Come 'ere a mo; I just had a brainwave (I know, it hurts). If you go to your profile up in the right corner you can put him into a list of members to ignore. I've just done that. I no longer see any of his rude posts. There is just a line saying he's posted. He's the only person I've ever done this to

Try using the 'preview' to see how a photo looks in a posting. If its too big I take it back into my photo editing proggy and resize it until its the size I like and want in the posting When up-loading a photo, before submitting the message, you can delete the photo and change it to a smaller version

My remark was taken up and used wrongly. Matt; they be a simple item thats been well made, with nice attention to their utility

They are nicely made and attractive at the same time. I reckon they'll last the owners quite a whiles They are not something I think would be sought after in N.I. or even the UK as a whole. We have no 'history' of carrying pens in top pockets. Although, my father, being from Chicago, carried a full office in his top pocket I wish we had a 'like' button

Whatever you call it, don't sell it cheap. Don't under-value your work

Ask Le Prevo. They won't have it but they might know where to get it. In the distant past I've asked them about certain things and they were able to source the item for me

That is a real good bit of refurbishing work Thats going to last him a lot more years. You'll inherit your own work

Na, gotta disagree witt you d'are Texicans were known for having used the 'jock-strap' loops. This a "Forester British California Slim Jim Arizona type Mexiacan Loop with half skirt closed-toe gun holster"

Mexican Loop with a half skirt Nice work on it

Nice one.

me too. Now I'm thinking 'where did my pan go?' I might have to buy a new one and ever so tasty - with or without filling. Great as extras in packed lunches, snack boxes, in-car nibbles . . . . oh, almost forgot; nice work there YinTX

I reckon you've discovered one of the best ways. Two other machines are 1. variable speed saber saw [aka jig-saw, especially in the UK] 2. bandsaw. for some bandsaws there is available a knife blade specially for leather and rubber cutting

The pattern came from a book. The pattern was drawn on two pages due to the size of the pattern and the size of the book pages. I have it scanned already. PM me an email addy and I will email it to you. There be no pixies in Ireland - only faeries and leprechaun That be a leprechaun in the last photo . He's in his 'day off' clothes

Yes, a very slight tipping of the angle can mean its punching the wrong place on the back side. Two ways I have of dealing with this. 1. I usually like a stitching line front and back; not always a groove, sometimes just a line marked lightly 1a. draw the stitching line exactly the same distance on the front and back piece 1b. punch the stitching holes in the front piece only 1c. glue the pieces together, or use double sided tape 1d. use an awl to punch through from the front side through the rear piece, taking care to get each hole on the line you marked 1e. or use the stitching punch lightly to press through the front holes to mark the rear piece, check the marks are on the line, then make the holes 2. alternative; with these you still need to take care and they are limited to the stitch width, in these 2st per cm or about 6spi You need to take care that both sets of teeth are on the marked line. Once aligned just a squeeze and 3 stitches [4 holes] are punched I bought these for just under £10 (E11 or $13?) I have another pair to punch just two holes

Looks most excellent

Is this the sort of hat? This is made of 4 panels; Using the same basic pattern I make this version By using 8 D shaped panels I get a better fitting hat;

Probably take 15 mins, maybe 20 mins to sew up