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CowboyBob

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Everything posted by CowboyBob

  1. You need to measure the thickness from the top of the flange of the opener cam(bottomside of the hook)to the top of the bobbincase tab,this will hit if it's not milled enough.
  2. Ok,I just got the measurement.You need to have .100 milled off the top for clearance. That color looks great!
  3. Yes,we have converted alot of these over the yrs.You need to either get the hook saddle from the 563 or mill the top of the saddle are for the hook & bobbin case opening lever to set lower since it's taller,the 562 lower bearing will work.Now is a good time to replace the upper bearing if needed they usually are worn & allow sideplay. .
  4. The bar is made of chrome steel you'd never be able to tap it, we sell the bars new for $10.00.
  5. We have sizes #18,22,23 in Schmetz in stock f/$5.00 a pk (10)
  6. We used to sell these for doing car upholstery yrs ago,they will sew up to 6 layers of vinyl so yes,it would handle thinner leather up to 5/16".It has a spring loaded walking foot that will make it feed better than a Singer 31-15.Alot of the common parts from the 31-15 fit this model like the bobbins,bobbincase & shuttle.
  7. There's a few things I would try before taking it apart,it really shouldn't be that tight,you can take a pick,nail or something & try to see if it's loose,or even tapping on it lightly w/a hammer to break it loose. or blow some air in the hole.
  8. That is a 9/64"x36 tpi.
  9. I've carefully used vice-grips & don't over tighten or you'll break it,but just alittle twist as you pull straight down usually works for me.Different machines take different screws,what do you have?
  10. If the needle is out of the hole it will take the pressure off the screw & I've turned them out many times w/a needle.You never get a drill in there to do any good,if you did you'd ruin the threads since it's so small.
  11. Try to make sure it has a rubber timing belt in it because the cloth ones aren't available anymore,you can convert it to rubber but you'll need new top & bottom pulleys to match it cost over $300.00.
  12. Leave the hook alone. It is real hard to get #207 to pull up on the bottom side so use #138 in the bobbin.
  13. College Sewing in the UK should have them.
  14. Oh,yeah we have a lot of thread & we only have the LR point.
  15. The 45K76 is a darner as you know.I have changed them years ago,there is a lot of parts need to change it & some of the holes aren't drilled & tapped as they should be.It's a a lot of work for a machine that might sew just under 1/2" & you have the markings of the feed dog on the bottomside of the leather since it doesn't have a walking foot.
  16. Your Welcome,Tom
  17. Hey Jeff, Like the pic on the left,bevel towards inside.
  18. We have them f/$38.00 + shpg.
  19. Is it around $38.00 ?
  20. It's between the red dots.
  21. You can start with a pin 7/16" or 11mm long,it's might be alittle longer than what you need BUT you can always grind it off or bend the release bracket on the backside of the tension.
  22. They are for the light & should be 6 volts,you should take the end cover off & see if these wires come off of the windings or are connected to the wiring block where the others connect,if it comes from the windings it's 6 volt for sure.
  23. Wiz,they are talking about the internal timing belt.(Your up too late!!) LOL
  24. There is a screw in the shuttle that the bobbincase pivots on when you open it,once in a while it can loosen up & rub against the race & make noise.Also if you pull it out to check it make sure to tighten the 2-race screws all the way & back them off 1/2 turn so the race can float.
  25. When you first start sewing do you hold on to the needle thread for the first 3-4 stitches & are you sure the upper tension is threaded correctly,looping underneath is either too loose or upper thread threaded wrong.Make sure the thread is pulled down in-between the discs .
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