CowboyBob

Corey, Many years ago we used to rebuild these & sell them for car upholstery.The biggest problem is getting feet to fit.Does it have a cording foot?If he needs one get a pic of how the feet mount. This machine is very power top feed like a 16-188 type of upper feed,the bar that holds the outside foot on has been out of production for over 30 yrs.But most other parts will interchange w/a 31-15.You can put a spacer on the foot lift for more lift(if it hasn't already been done)

You have to measure the bottom of the groove on the pulleys,then the top of the pulleys & go in between both measurements.

If you can find an old 3-phase motor (slightly larger HP rating than your motor)that is delta wound all you need to do is wire it to 220 single phase & also wire it to your 3-phase,get a 110 volt motor & hook up a belt to this 3-phase motor get the 1 running to spin the 3-phase(convertor motor) & then turn the 220v single on & shut the 110v starter motor off & as long as the 3-phase Is spinning it'll put out 3-phase.Usually you can find old 3-phase motors pretty cheap.I just happened to buy a trailer that had a new one in it(3HP) & used it. It's run our Bridgeport mill for years on this 3 phase convertor I made.There is some directions on the web.It is very simple though.

Rea Bogle's Grandson was going to take over.But changed his mind & I got a letter from his wife a few months ago asking if I was interested in buying the business.

Looks like a direct drive servo to me.With the panel you can program how many backtack stitches you want @ the beginning & end of the stitch.This is more of a higher speed factory machine set-up.

It takes some careful work but we have welded a couple machines back together in the past,you need to remove all the lower shafts if you can separate the top from the base, v-grind the crack, get the base straight w/some heavy angle & clamps,heat it with a torch & use nickle welding rod to weld it with.Then we grind down the weld & repaint.It takes a while to get it done right but it can be saved. Here's a before & after pic of an Adler we welded. HTH

On heavier items like this UPS only pays when they are "packed" to their standards which means they want it double-boxed with at least 1" styrofoam between the boxes.And as Const said the handwheel & any other parts sticking out need to be removed.It's a shame they can't handle items better than this but we've learn that they don't so I try not to use them either!

They look similiar to the 151 hook but it doesn't have that finger sticking out.http://www.supsew.com/wp-content/uploads/Superior/99MasterCatalog/#/382/

It's a 332,333 Consew double needle that will not work for leather.

Yes,Madmax is correct the 794S smallest we can get is #160(#23).

Once in a while certain threads will slide out of first tension while sewing so we always recommend running the thread through 2-holes & this applies to all machines w/a spool that has 2-holes,Singer 111w,Juki 562,563,Consew 206,226,277 & etc.

Yes,you find out as we all have iy pays to spend alittle extra for certain things esp tools.Give Barry King or Bob Beard a call if you want some good stuff to work with that will last a long time.

If you look underneath,just to the right of the race(what the shuttle rides in) you'll see a large slotted screw,towards the bottom,you can loosen this & move the race left to right.

The plate on a Pfaff has a hole in it to put the oil into this wick area.

Yes,they are there to hold oil & release as needed,this area of the hook spins around & the other part is stationary so it needs a drop of oil everytime you change the bobbin but in factories @ higher speeds it's good to have oil there all the time.All these Pfaff hooks are very expensive so they don't want them to wear out.

Yes,all the Cowboys we sell CB3200,3500,4500,5500 with that type of hook come from the factory with that spring in them,that's why we carry them because they do fall out once in a while & people need them.When you get one you can pinch the inside coil together alittle & make it fit tighter so maybe it won't fall out so easy.

Some old motors will start backwards,just spin it counterclockwise when you start it to get it spinning the right way.

I recommend #138 but know of people that use larger but it will tend to jam easier when you go over 138. What's that motorcycle you have?

Yes,they take the same feet,bobbins & needles as your 111w,the only difference between the W & K is K stands for being made in the UK & the W machine was made in Bridgeport,CT.Give them both a real good lube job & try to sew on them & see what happens & yes,that stand should work for you too.

I once made up a treadle stand with a 111w100 needlefeed for an Amish customer that wanted it to sew belts & it didn't treadle real easy sewing the belts.Your 211 will have a smaller pulley & might work better. That stand came out real nice!

They are for High-Speed sewing esp in denser material that heat the needle.

If your machine has a small handwheel under 3 1/2" go with at least a 3-1 reduction,we use a 4-1 on our box style & it works great,other people have also made reducers from the old-style belt driven grinder arbors. arbor.html

Here's one we had made up with a 2"small pulley & a 8" large pulley,they work great! I've seen pulleys like this in clothes dryers that could be adaptable real easy.

Yes,Max is right it's like a DU-214H also look up Nakajima 280,WMC used to sell them using that Mercury name. I just found the old price sheet from 1994 & we used to buy them for $450.00 for the head & always bought extra gears since the ones the factory put in them usually broke soon if they jammed it up.It has a large-bobbin,walking foot & reverse.

If you lift the foot up & push it front to back how much play does it have?However much it has is causing it to not pull the feet front to back making the stitch shorter.It's a very common problem with these machines.Part # 82167 has a little tongue that fits in a groove of #82053 & gets worn.