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shoepatcher

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Everything posted by shoepatcher

  1. teeth are probably worn on the bottom as is the long drive rack
  2. Nickle better to weld cast iron with. But you have to know what you are doing glenn
  3. Also, see if the take up lever is coming up to high. If so, it can cause the top tension to be to tight. That can be regulated by means of the screw in the piston and knurl lock washer. Most people forget about this function on a Singer shoepatcher. glenn
  4. I believe they began to make the Landis #1 in the late 1860's or early 1870's. best I have at the moment. I now of now one who has a chart for dating Landis #1, #3 machines. glenn
  5. Now, here is the good part. A new hook can be made on a #3-D printer. The shoepatcher on steroids I got in Australia a couple of years ago has the very large hook. I have talked with a 3-D manufacturer and distributor. He feels the hook can be made out of stainless steel on a 3-D printer including the taped screw threads and a hard Rockwell !!! Your hook can probably also be made on a 3-D printer. The hook would have to be scanned on CAD but it would be cheaper than having to build and polish one on a mill. from scratch. I figure about $200.00 or less to have it down but you do not have many choices like me. Your hook is different than any that I have as to size.
  6. I would need to have an overall dimension of the opening in the shuttle carrier to see how big the hook could be, then we have to figure out a bobbin to fit it. I would make a new shuttle carrier so that we can start fresh on what the hook should fit into. glenn
  7. Do NOT have to take the safety clutch off the axils to change them. There are 2 springs. Change one of them at a time and adjust the depth of the set screw that goes on top of the spring to set the spring tension. They are sealed with a plastic material on top of the Allen set when they are set at the factory. If both springs have been adjusted, start with one. back out old spring, insert new spring and screw Allen screw down about one third of the threads in the hole. Try it. It may have to go in more or out more. I had to trial and error it on the 1295 I was working on to get it about where it should be. Turn Allen screw in to increase tension, out to decrease tension. glenn
  8. check the tension spring inside the bottom of the needle bar to make sure it is not worn or broke. glenn
  9. the handle on the balance wheel is broken off. The stud for the handle from the balance wheel will have to be removed , made as well as the wood handle. glenn
  10. I believe the wing nut on the back that regulates the height of the foot walk is on high. Move it to the lowest walk position which is at the other end of the 5 notch mark and see if it drops the foot anymore. glenn
  11. That is a nice machine . H4 high lift, ,CLMNPN it has it all c class, leather machine, safety clutch, 4 motion drop feed , 6mm max. stitch length. If only it has the special 10mm stitch length!! $200.00 bucks a steal!!!!!
  12. All of these machines have vertical hooks. The needle thread passes under the bobbin case each time it goes around the hook. If there is any thread, lint, dirt, etc. under the hook, those items will stop it from going under the bobbin case. To remove the bobbin case basket, you must remove two or three little gib screws that hold the flat washer type ring (gib). It's function is to hold the bobbin case basket in the hook. The bobbin case basket has a machined ring on it that has to be rotated to remove it from the hook. Taking the throat plate out will help you get the bobbin case basket out since it has a little finger on it that fits in the small slot on the underside of the throat plate. Hope that helps. glenn
  13. Jerry, Send us a few pics of the back of the machine. We meaning Wiz, Constabulary or myself) can better tell you what to do once we see the back of the machine. glenn
  14. Might be the foot height adjustment in the back. If not assembled correctly, it can stay up. glenn
  15. I think that machine was renamed after Juki bought Nakajima. Not sure. I can't remember the number of the machine now. Anyone out know? glenn
  16. Also, I would see about getting the part made. They can 3D a part out of stainless steel, bronze, aluminum, copper, titanium and other metals today. Really quite amazing what can be built today with 3D printers. glenn
  17. Try Ralph's in Denver, Colorado. That bought a lot of discontinued parts that Singer was getting rid of. glenn
  18. Actually, the 205-374 preceded the 205-370. Adler came out with the 205-74 in 1985 when they introduced the machine. They made a lot of changes in the first 6 months. The new models were called 205-374. Adding the 3 to the last part of the model number meant it was walking foot with alternating pressers. When Durkopp bought Adler in the 1990's, the model number was changed to 205-370. In essence, all these machines are the same. glenn
  19. still looking AL. I wish you luck. glenn
  20. I did not get any answers that I could fin don the other posting. I am not a firstimer! shoepatcher
  21. Again, Anyone have any experience with THOR sewing machines? shoepatcher
  22. Black Dogg. Can I see some pics of your machine? I have 5 of them to restore. glenn
  23. The Juki 2810 is a copy of the Adler 867 with cost saving of about 25--33% over the cost of the Adler. What I have seen of it, great machine. Yet to sew on one but have looked at them at MJ Foley which is the largest Juki dealer in the US. Bigger machine , longer throat, higher lift, new bobbin winder system, central lubrication. New generation machine over the 1508 and the 2210. I believe if you get the 2810-7 which has the toys, cost is around $5,200.00. The Adler 867 with toys is over $7,000.00 You do the math. glenn
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