JHLeatherwood

@AtlantisLeather this is a screaming deal - 18 hours drive, though. :( Good luck with the sale.

I'll take it @jdwhitak sending pm

Got my unicorn side - it's exactly at described, very supple and nice. Well worth the price.

Pm and email sent.

Great leather, but not t all cheap. Tandy has some good-quality leather, but their prices for the good stuff are right up there with Wicket & Crain and Hermann Oak. I was over a year into my leather journey when I bought my first HO, and I discovered that carving and tooling doesn't have to be such hard work. Folding HO didn't crack it, edges burnished more easily and to a better final shine, dyes went in more easily, cutting out patterns didn't dull my knife as fast. It's not a perfect analogy, but think of it like playing golf: Tiger Woods will beat me every time, even with the worst quality clubs possible (good craftsmen can get great results with almost any leather). But I'm going to play better, and enjoy it more, if I have quality clubs that fit me (if I buy higher quality leather). You should buy a 1 square foot panel of W&C and HO and compare it side by side with whatever you're using. Smell it, feel it, cut it, carve it, stamp it, dye it, and burnish it. Only you can decide whether the difference is worth premium price.

Check with Policy Customs - I've purchased several dies from them (significantly less complex, but still) and I'm very happy with them. https://policycustoms.com/ Quite reasonable priced, as well. They're on Facebook too if you use that.

I hadn't thought of staples. Definitely going to practice on the scraps after I get the pieces cut out. Thanks

I'm about to attempt my first teddy bear made out of shearling. The pattern is from Springfield Leather, if that matters, and allows for 1/4" seam allowance on the pattern. I'll be sewing on a Cobra class 26, most liekly with 92 thread. I haven't found any videos that show tips on working with shearling, so that's my first question. Other questions: How far back from the edge should I trim the hair/wool, and how close should I cut it to the skin so the seam doesn't show as "bare" skin? Any tips on managing the fur "squeezing out" of the seam as I sew? Since it's going to be inside the final product, does ti matter? Any tips on managing the edges as I sew? I mostly glue edges before sewing to keep the pieces lined up, but that's not going to work with fur. Any other tips or gotchas I can avoid? I have previously used shearling on a couple of pistol caddies, but it was glued to the vegtan shell and I trimmed the edges pretty closely to avoid any fur sticking out of the finished edge.

Very similar concept, but I don't think you'll get the down force you need with that one. I have this one, with a "foot" by the Arbor Press Guy on etsy and I can cut out holsters from 10oz or wallets from 4-6 Oz with a breaker bar. https://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-arbor-press-3552.html

If you're making 20 of these every other month (120 a year?) and selling them, I'd suggest investing in a cutting die and arbor press from the cheap tools store. I'll also recommend Sinabroks punches. They make various sizes up to 2.0mm. https://sinabroks.com/products/sinabroks-single-hole-stitching-punch-for-leathercraft-leather-stitching-stitching-chisel-leatherwork-strap-punch-holes-punch?variant=40151345496261 I'm a hobbyist that makes from patterns (like Tony See/Dieselpunkro) that I print on my laser, tape to the leather, and punch out. Every hole has tape, paper, and leather, and some of the patterns have more than 1,000 holes. Sinabroks are the first punches I've found that never, ever jam. And they stay sharp (it's some kind of magic, I'm sure). I'd bet Policy Customs or Texas Dies could make you a steel rule die that would cut the end and punch all the holes at once for about $100.

I have bought a couple of their keychain dies, their zippo pattern and mold, and some of their little earring-looking things to hold punched leather together while I stitch the seam. The dies have cut 6-8 ounce veg tan, ostrich legs, 4 oz oil tan, and everything I've thrown at them (including, once, the side of my thumb). I use them with my harbor freight arbor press, and have also hammered them out with my old rawhide hammer and a wooden mallet. The zippo mold works great with 3-4oz veg tan. The acrylic patterns are way too thin, and many of the stitching holes aren't really round or all the same size - their laser isn't perfectly calibrated. But they work for the patterns and I can mark and punch my own stitch lines. Overall, for a cheap "will I like something like this" they're not a bad option. And they do seem to offer doodads that seem to fill specific niche needs. And having seen that I can use the arbor press as a "clicker" I've bought some high-quality dies for wallets that work about the same, but appear to be MUCH more durable (and able to be sharpened if necessary). The Likolly ones will be done for if they get dull or bent.

The buyer can't submit a claim - the courier hasn't delivered it. Only the shipper can submit a claim for lost or damaged merchandises if it hasn't been accepted by the buyer.

Interested in this - will you ship to Florida?

I did, and shipped them out. Should I mark this as sold?

Thanks! I kinda thought it looked like Aaron's version, but wasn\t sure.

If you post the pattern, I'd buy it either here or on your etsy store. Especially if it's up before your Christmas coupon expires.

Is the pattern for that dopp bag available somewhere? Happy to pay the creator.

One more alternative. I found some 0.5oz kangaroo skin on ebay. It was about as thick as tyvek, cut with my roller, and glued up great. Until it ran out, I used it just like Aaron uses tyvek in the Makers Leather videos, and then used "kangaroo hide pockets" as an additional marketing point. Sadly, I haven't been able to find any more since that one order.

pm sent

I got a used Cobra 26 with the old style hook, and when I ordered new bobbins, I mistakenly ordered the size U. Leather Machine Company took care of me and they're sending me replacements in the right size, so I'll pay it forward. PM me your address, and I'll send you the bobbins. I'll pay postage to US addresses. James

Y'know, I think I'm eligible for adoption, if you're looking for a low-maintenance addition to your family. Beautiful shop!

Check the date on the original, and on the last post. As it was clearing a closed business, I'm pretty sure it''s all sold or disposed of after a year.

I poked around their site a bit, and if they're still selling the roller machine for $400, and embossing rols for $25 (with first order), that's certainly a bargain. They apparently are no longer on ebay (at least there's no listings, and no store name for duckcreektraders) so I kind of wondered if they were still in business, or if the machine was still available. Their site says it's custom made to order. Thanks for the tip and the reminder. Still wondering if I could get away with half the price using the el cheapo rolling mill, but I'd guess I could recoup the cost by selling about a dozen belts or so.

The guy who was making $200 belt rollers never came back, so I went trolling through the interwebs to see if there were any alternatives to the $600-900 manual belt rollers. These are designed for jewelry making, and apparently adjust from 0.03 to 6.5 mm between the rollers. They sell patterned rollers, so they're clearly interchangeable. I wonder if one of these could be modified (by someone more skilled than I am) to accept standard belt embossing rollers. These are on ebay for well under $200, or at jewelry-making equipment suppliers for up to lots more than $200. The concept is the same - so what do y'all think? Could this work? https://www.ebay.com/itm/153907704169

Force play? Looks like the catcher has his foot on the plate, so out! Otherwise, he's under the tag, and safe. I love this work, by the way - umpired for 13 years, and this brings back fond memories.