rodneywt1180b

Tony yes but in the 3-4 oz weight. It looked like a good choice but I went with the kidskin. I was concerned about how pliable or not the leather would be. I found out the hard way with other purchases that not all cowhide is pliable enough for my needs. The kidskin was cheap and thin enough I figured it was worth a chance. This is the kidskin I went with: http://springfieldleather.com/Kidskin-Chestnut Is the review button broken at Springfield? I tried leaving one (favorable) but I don't think it worked. I really like how this kidskin works and it feels great in the hand. It's also nice and stretchy which is perfect for my needs. I can wrap it around the contours of my handles very easily. It also seemed relatively resistant to being pierced when I was sewing it. Very tough for it's thickness, at least to me. Is all kidskin that stretchy? If it is I want more, I would like to have more than one color on hand. YinTx I hope the kidskin holds up. I want the crutches to look good and last a good long time. In this application there will be some rubbing but there won't be any pulling, bending or other stresses on the leather. I'll keep the veg tan in mind next time I order. It does sound like a good choice and I would like to learn to work with it. Maybe I''ll just try a foot or two to see the first time I order it. The leather is done on the crutches and I'm touching up the finish on the wood now. I'll post them on the forum after the customer receives them. Probably late next week, sooner if I can. Silly to wait maybe, but I want her to see them first.

Those look great. I really like the style you've developed in your work.

That elephant is some beautiful stuff. I love the looks. How does it feel in the hand? Very nice looking wallet. You did a nice job on it.

I see high end goods made with exotic leathers pieced together to make wider panels. The seams are nearly invisible. I want to learn how to achieve that look. I bought a couple carp skins from Springfield a while back. They're not quite wide enough as one piece to cover my cane handles with. They're around 3 to 3 1/2 inches wide and I need closer to 5 inches wide. I decided to experiment on one of them to see if I could make it wider. I cut it in half and trimmed the edges so I could put the bottom edge of one piece on the top of the top edge of the other in an attempt at keeping the scale direction running the same way. I lined them up face to face and stitched them together using a saddle stitch and 0.6 mm tiger thread. The leather was pretty stiff so I soaked it in some water to make it more pliable and folded the edges of the seam open on the back side. I clamped it open and flat overnight so it could dry. This is where it's at now. I'm mostly satisfied for a first attempt. Due to the scale pattern a perfect match just isn't possible. I'm ok with that. It's usable for a handle cover and wetting the fish leather made it much more pliable and easy to mold. It's pretty stiff and almost papery feeling when dry. The seam is visible, but not bad. I'll have to pad it somehow so the edges by the seam don't show under the leather. My stitching chisel is large for the thread size. There are a few small holes at the stitch line but they're not visible unless you hold it up to a light. If I do it this way again I'll use my sewing machine and regular thread for a less bulky, flatter seam and line it with wax paper. the leather wanted to stick to the wood. I'll also use wider boards. Am I on the right track with this method? I know this method can be improved. How do the pros join two or more smaller pieces together for a larger panel? What should I be doing differently? Should I try just butting the two pieces together and gluing them to a backing of some sort? I'm concerned about gaps at the seam opening up if I try that. I would like to use some exotics like these skins and ostrich legs, I'm looking at toad skins too, but many are too small to make one piece covers from them. Thanks for any advice.

Really, really nice!

I decided against the milled veg tan until I can learn more about it. I ordered some kidskin from Springfield's leather disrupter sale instead. I don't know if all kidskin is like it, but it was perfect for my needs-nice & stretchy with a really nice feel. I hope it is because the kidskin is my favorite so far.

+1

No criticism here. Great looking envelopes and I hope one day my stitching will look that good.

I'm torn between admiring the pure functionality and simplicity of the stopper and thinking it would be a good place to add some decorative carving.

Beautiful work! The molds are a piece of art on their own. How did you seal the edges?

Good advice. Not all machines are created equal. Too many sellers on Craig's List will claim a machine will sew through leather when it really wasn't designed for leather at all. I see a lot of household machines listed as "Industrial! Sews Leather!" If you're looking at old Singers this may help. http://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/singer_industrial_model_sewing_machines_and_accessories.html EDIT: The only other advice I can give is buy the best you can afford the first time. Trying to get by cheap and upgrade later can be expensive and frustrating in the long run. You can at least see if the model you're looking at really was designed for leather.

I can't help but I love your work.

What I was going to ask. Beautiful job on the wallet and the awl is a knockout too.

Better than I can do.

Very classy!

I'm 7 1/2 years into my fight with melanoma and my wife is still recovering from a round with breast cancer. Much like you I got through the worst of it because of my wife and daughter and the time I've been able to spend in my shop. Keep fighting and my prayers for you to have a complete recovery.

I'm working on a pair of forearm crutches that will be getting leather on the arm cuffs and handles. I'm seriously looking at Springfield Leather's Sof-Tan milled veg tan. I've never worked with veg tan or milled veg tan before but the idea that the milled veg tan might be softer and more flexible appeals to me. Also, because of the intended use I don't want to use a dyed product. That's one of the reasons I'm looking at veg tan leather. I don't want the dyes possibly rubbing off on the client's clothes. Has anyone here worked with Springfield's Sof-Tan leathers and how is it to work with? I can't seem to get their site to come up right now or I would post a link. Thanks, Rodney

Dang it. That would have been fun.

Thank you. That little undercut and lift really adds a lot to the leaves. Beautiful work.

Get your dad to wear them in public if you want more chap orders. I know nothing about chaps but they look great.

Great question1 Everyone here. You all have shown me what can be achieved with leather-things I would never have thought of or thought possible in some cases. There's also another guy. Cecheflo (sp?) on Youtube. He does mostly automotive upholstery type work including things like covering steering wheels and gear shift knobs. I've found his videos very helpful in my work at putting leather on cane handles.

Awesome costume! What are they filming?

Really nice carving.

Happy Birthday! You've made a great site!

The boiled linseed oil has metallic dryers in it so it will cure hard. You don't want to drink it. Probably not great for leather either unless you want it rigid.