Hasbeencowboy

I just (about 3 months ago) bought a blade for my Landis 30 from Landis in Canada. They have blades but that is all. I forget what it cost me but whatever it was, it was worth it to me at the time.

There is a guy on utube demonstrating Buckstitching that is also selling just what you are looking for, Rhale

LatigoAmigo............Will this cutter let you start in the middle of a strap and quit before the end of the strap?

In reply to your question Dwight. I don't know how long the Wade tree has been around but around the turn of the 20th century a lot of the saddle were slick fork or "A" fork and riders tied their coats or bedrolls on to give them some swells. With Wade trees, after the saddle is built it seems like most people add bucking rolls to them which to me would defeat the slick fork but saves tying your coat on for swells I guess. I am for sure no expert but just information I picked up over my 82 years from old cowboys

I have to agree with Todd about Texas Custom Dies. I have several dies from them and they have always treated me good and delivered when they said they would.

I use red board but just because I had a piece. I brought the arm on my arbor press down until my punch just made contact with the red board. Then I marked the ram on my press, drilled and tapped the ram and screwed in a 1/4" bolt. When I pull my handle down it only cuts to the board not into it. I also made the same sort of set up on my hydraulic press. You might give it a try if you are so inclined

I locked up my arm once and it was caused by not making a full stroke (up and back). I called Tippmann and as I recall they had me remove the cover and then you could get the cam to release. That was about 3 years ago and I won't guarantee that will work but with the cover removed you should be able to see why and where it is binding up.............Good luck

What i did with my 12 x 16 shed was to hinge a 4 x 8 sheet of plywood that will fold up against a wall when not in use with shelving below so I can have total access to the shelves when not cutting. But also I would have made it 16 x 20 or bigger......LOL. No matter how big your shop is you'll always wish it was bigger or at least I do

I talked to Leatherwranglers yesterday and they do have some blades for the Landis 30 already made up. Almost need to take out a 2nd mortgage to buy one though..........lol Price really wasn't all that bad

Yes it was Pilgrims............Thank you kindly. I'll try Paul Zalesak.

There used to be a place in New England somewhere that had or could get parts for a Landis 30. Does any one happen to have that name and phone number? Specifically I am looking for a blade or the dimensions so I can have one made. Mine has been ground so many times that I can't get it up to the rolls. Thank you kindly.

Hope my info helped you

Tandy told me that those tips will fit their mini punch, so they are M8-1.0 I know this because I am revamping a Harbor Freight arbor press into a press for punching holes, etc

I am not exactly sure which is Tandy's universal tubes but the tubes for their Mini punch set and replacements for their rotary punch are metric. M8-1.0

In my opinion where the magnet was would depend on if a shoer was right or left handed. I am right handed and would want my nails on my left as my hammer was in my right. But then, I always just stuck the nails in my mouth.

I have a 12 ton press that I made with 12" x 12" cutting area. I have a few dies I use that are 14" to 36" long. I make several passes with the longer dies. It works great for the things I make

Right, wrong, or indifferent, as an ex-contractor, I would factor in the cost of the stamp and prorate it amongst the first order and say nothing to your client. If and when they give you a second job, you can reduce your price "out of the goodness of your heart" and they will be happy

I use leathercordusa.com for my Buckstitching lace. It is 4mm but from a quarter mile away on a fast running horse you can't tell the difference between 4mm and 5/32. I'm sure they will send you a sample if you are so inclined

It looks to me like your top is a door blank which may or may not be solid core. If you use the gussets as hwinbermuda shows and screw then into the back and the ends of your top, it may give you the support you need. If you do add a shelf to the top you will definitely need more bracing then just screwing your back into the top. Next best suggestion is to let your back go to the floor and fasten it to the legs as well as your top. There is always more ways than one to skin a cat but I offer this advice based on my many years as a contractor building custom homes and doing remodels

I would suggest doing a Turks head. You can make it as tight or as loose as you see fit and it will stay that way

For what it is worth, I use masking paper like that used in a body shop. Bought a masking tool that applies the masking tape as the paper is unrolled. It'll dry and or I throw the paper away when I am done dying, putting on sealer or conditioners

Try Heather at Texas Custom Dies. They will treat you right

I bought a Tandy splitter like you are looking at about 3 years ago. It worked/works great on straps up to 1.5 inches wide. I finally found a rebuilt Landis 30 last year and now I only use the Tandy splitter for skiving strap ends. I tried pulling a 4 inch strap through one time and have the hernia to prove it

This is a personal experience thing!!! I have ridden the same saddle since 1957 on a multitude horses..............from high withered thoroughbreds to no withered quarter horses and in all those years, I have never sored up a horses back. We used folded gunny sacks to make up any difference. As far as "saddle marks" are concerned, just because a horse has them doesn't necessarily mean they had an ill fitting saddle or somebody sat on them like a sack of spuds. Some horses just seem to slip a little hair and have saddle marks and others never do. I'm sure there are some people that will disagree but difference of opinion is what makes a horse race. In my opinion, anybody that professes to know everything about horses, saddles and fitting is just showing their ignorance and I for sure am not an expert even at 80 years old.

The only draw back I see is that all sewing machines are 3 phase. If youi have 3 phase, non problem but if you don't, it could be a big prob;em