chrisash

I intent to make a slip over PLA square or rectanguler sheath to go over my basket weave handle so i get a more positive feel for lining up the tool, at present i line up visually but being such a small tool head iand having a round handle its not easy to get accuracy Maybe it will work maybe not but feel its worth a try untill i get more experience using them

It was strange that it aparently had no model number or serial number according to the owner

Unfortunatly this machine hadwalking foot, so may well of done my sort of work with no heavy duty leather. still maybe something else wrong with it that would make it expensive to repair, then table and servo all adds up

If you are not in a hurry, you can buy many low cost leather tools on "Etsy.com" just enter leather tools, for $150 you will be able to get a good selection of basic tools which will give you a good introduction after that its up to you if you want to pay the more expensive brands, (when you are learning the quality of the tools is probably less aparent than when you are more experienced) remember the tools from the past were probably made far less acuratly than CNC tools made today and only the steel may have been better quality

That would be no problem Harry, also your always welcome down to see and observe once i have it up and running The machines are quite cheap now, I just paid £163 for the latest version of the Ender 3 model which seems highly rated in the lower cost section

Unfortunatly no I was asking the person for info and it was booked to run until late on the 10th but he must have closed early after the first offer, what a a**hole

I have been looking at free 3D software prior to buying the 3D printer and found the following items of interest Tinkercad 3D software Sketchup 3D software Freecad 3D Software http://3dp.rocks/lithophane/ free online software to make amazing product https://image.online-convert.com/ online converter change .jpg to .svg for 3D Gettin my Ender 3 on 19th so expect to have fun Tinkercad if you search on youtube you quickly find its far more powerful than first impressions

What sort of depth do you use or the impressions, i have just been given a Ender 3 for my birthday next week and without knowledge thought about 2mm

Post on redit i have copied that may be of interest from a B Geister I've been meaning to write this review for a while, now's as good a time as any. When it comes to stamps for tooling leather, pretty much everyone is familiar with two names: Tandy and Barry King. It hasn't always been that way. Before I dive into a review of these stamps, here's a quick bit of history. Before Tandy was Tandy, the tools that would become Craftools were made by RBS. RBS was a collaboration between Lou Roth (who would later acquire the Craftool Co. from Dick McGahen), Ellis Barnes (who would make tool for Craftool for many years before acquiring Gomph Hackbarth from Ray Hackbarth) and Al Stohlman (yes, that Al Stohlman). Each would go on to leave their mark on leatherworking history. For now, though, I'm going to focus on Ray Hackbarth and Ellis Barnes. Ray Hackbarth was a toolmaker from Phoenix, AZ who was one of the first makers to use stainless steel for leather stamps. His business was eventually purchased by Ellis Barnes who began doing business under the Gomph Hackbarth name in Elfrida, AZ until his death until 2009. The current owner of Gomph Hackbarth is Ellis Barnes' longtime apprentice Lonnie Height. Lonnie makes his stamps in the Hackbarth machine shop using a variety of lathes, mills, files, and other hand tools. While it's not well-known (Lonnie has a minimal web presence, no online ordering, a confounding catalog, and only accepts phone orders), Hackbarth tools are still being made and the quality is excellent. Over the course of our last conversation, Lonnie mentioned that he's selling an "introductory" tool set designed for someone that wants to get into tooling with quality tools without paying the cost associated with stainless. I'm often asked for recommendations for a beginner's set, so I purchased a 1018 set for evaluation. The $145 set consists of the following tools in good medium-format sizes: smooth bevelers in 3/16", 1/4", and 3/8" 6 hole straight bargrounder round and half round grounder pear shader thumbprint 3/4" veiner 3/8" camouflage tool small lined and unlined seeder 1/4" oval seeder 1/4" mule track tool 1/4" border stamp Pros: Incredibly clean impressions Medium knurl gives an excellent grip Great value at less than $10 per stamp Cons: Stamps are shorter than other makes, can be a little difficult for large hands 1018 mild steel is less corrosion resistant than stainless Ordering can be difficult, usually a wait to get a set I'm very impressed with the quality of the impressions and wouldn't hesitate to recommend them to anyone-- if you look closely at the impression sheet, you'll see that every tool leaves a clean, crisp impression with good, even lines and depth. For the money, it's a no brainer. You get 15 high quality tools for less than $10 each. A set of similar Craftool stamps runs $90-150 depending on pricing tier. The same tools priced individually from Barry King list at $400. The same exact stamps from Hackbarth in stainless list at $450. If you want to get into tooling or you've got some tools but you're looking to expand, this set has all the stamps that you need to get started short of a flower center and an undershot beveler. To buy a set, call Hackbarth Tools at 520-642-3891 -- he only takes phone orders, but does accept credit cards and PayPal. Just FYI-- I'm not receiving any compensation for this review and don't have any financial interest in Hackbarth Tools. Original file

Hi Bob Are they any good for leather, looking at the walking foot main drive bar does it look slightly bent or is it just a cover, owner says it turns over fine

I have literally just been brought a Ender 3 and yet to put it together, hopefully next week as its my birthday present (72) Hoping to make some stamps and maybe some molds but have no experience of using them yet, just played with Tinkercad and Freecad did look at Sketup but even the basic free version looked like a very large learning curve Understand they do take a few hours to make Any advice or simple files for leather items i can use to get started would be apreciated Let you know how i get on next week

Seen this advert and wondering the model of this consew it looks more like a juki 555 or 8700 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Consew-Industrial-Walking-Foot-Sewing-Machine-for-Spares-parts-HEAD-ONLY/153251002721?hash=item23ae78b961:g:07UAAOSwFZZb43ZD:rk:10:pf:0

Thats a fine looking steering wheel well done Did you bond it to the wheel or sew it like leather

I can not answer your question, but if I had a leica I would want more protection than a thin leathercase and keep a lens cap on at all time not in use

I have a gladstone bag on my bucket list made of good veg tan baybe sedgwick with goat inside and brass opening top and hand stitched. Maybe someday when i get enough spare dosh Maybe Maybe Damm now look what you have started Maybe

I second that as spent many years owning a embroidery company and working with say 5 or 7 ounce poly/cotton which is quite thin, when we changed the colour of the thread on any of the needles the knot would move, up for white and down for black and pro rata for those inbetween. really noticable as the under thread was always white normally against a coloured cloth

Does the hook pass close enough to the needle?

First check the needle is in the right way

To me it looks like either the timing of the hook is a bit late or the bottom tension is holding back maybe a nick on the hook and then suddengy letting go. i think the video shows the tension comming off the top until the check spring takes up the slack a nano second later as it should which makes me thing its the bottom end Not a expert by anymeans

Tried the Timebond but found the tin dried up half way through so now use red one

Remember a old worktop standing drill, it had about 6 sets of pullies in pairs of various sizes where you moved the belt up or down and have 6 speeds to play with, maybe you guys are thinking to small with just one pair

Hi Matt Your first paragraph wetted my apertite to try it out The latter paragraph's made me thinkagain and keep to evostick, after all if you pull to parts stuck with evostick its the flesh that breaks away rather than the glue, so thats fine with me

I really feel for anyone with any alergie, it seems according to our press to be a ever increasing problem with death as a possible outcome for some, and placing your life on the line by trusting the ingredients shown on a packet to be true Again i have a great distaste on the needless slaughter of any animal for its skin, but do understand the need for culling some breeds and using those skins

Go up to them and say " you look like you have put on some weight, what are you now x inches (add 4 inches to your estimate" They will come back with something like no im a 36 inch as normal Failing that ask there wife what size trousers they wear

You may find some lights flicker at a very high rate and that plus the needle movement may be causing or at least contributing to your problem, so worth a trial i would have thought, also slow down the sewing machine speed may help