chrisash

I guess resoline is worth a trial or any other sealer failing that then i guess a rubber type surface on the body side

You may also find this of use, originally by wiz Singer 29 stitch length adjustment The Singer 29-4 models are going on a hundred years old now and the parts that drive the stitch length wear out over time. Here is a list of things you can check out to see what is causing the short stitches. Lift the pressor foot lever to the raised position and lower the stitch regulator all the way down, then tighten it in back Lift the pressor foot lever and see if you can wiggle the foot forward and backward more than 1/16 inch either way Feel the bottom of the pressor foot to see if the teeth are still viable Tighten the pressure spring along the back of the machine to exert more downward pressure Loosen the pressure spring in case it was too tight Check the throat plate cover for burs or gouges that might grab the leather as you try to advance it Make sure the bobbin case tension allows the thread to flow freely, but with some tension. If too tight the stitches may be pulled short from the bobbin thread. Check the top tension to make sure it isn't so tight that it drags the work forward against the foot action. Any of those things can affect the stitch length, especially if the top tension spring is too loose, or the teeth are worn off the bottom of the foot. Too much thread tension can shorten the stitches by fighting against the foot action. But, the most common problem with hundred year old patchers is a worn out stitch regulator puck inside the rotating pressor foot assembly, where it is attached to the bottom of the head. When the needle moves up the mechanism lowers the butterfly housing, causing a puck to pivot inside the housing. It is the amount of downward pivoting that determines the maximum stitch length. If you have lowered the regulator and set it firmly on the back of the two rails that are part of the foot assembly and the tensions are all decent, but the stitches are very short, the puck is probably worn out inside the butterfly housing. You may be able to get replacement parts from Bob Kovar, at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. Otherwise, disassemble the head of the patcher and unscrew the foot mechanism. Send the moving ring and the housing it revolves in to a machinist to have some bronze weld added to it and shaped to minimize slack without binding. I did this on two old patchers I owned and restored the full stitch length to them. Edited March 30, 2010 by Wizcrafts Quote

This company has most spares available https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/store/Singer29K,29USewingMachineParts also there is a amish site but very expensive http://www.horsenharness.com/SINGER.html

Thanks Sorry no splitter at present, on a long wish list

Just looked up the green book and can understand why someone would steel it as the sample looks like great information for those in that trade Remember that 99% of the population are good people it's only the 1% who are thieving B******s Hope you all get your person responsible

Hi folk I have been making original one piece dress belts and looking at making some hand stitched lined ones Normally i just use veg tann 3-4mm38 mm wide belts Any suggestions for lined belts with preferably a thin soft liner, (Any thoughts) maybe sheep Seems hard to find leather belt strap in the uk under 3mm and think complete belt at 4mm thick is as thick as i want to go, dont have the money to buy in a side just for belts at present hense buying in straps

Was that not the old Daff car gearbox with belts Variomatic or something simular, I remeber the Dutch brought loads of them, then suddenly they stopped making them Automatic without the gear changes

It's always nice when new members add something to the forum before thay start using it for free advertising, or am i just old fashioned

I think it may look better is you use a straight needle for work which has curves, as slanted needles can look great on straight line, but wallow around on outward and inward curves around a shape. Hand sewing is different as not normally such tight turns

Great solution

Probably very nieve but could you not put some baces screwed into the clear sides of the split on either side, if heated before fitted they would shrink and tighten when at room temp If one end fixed before heating you can measure the expansion prior to fitting to be able to close the crack Maybe a silly solution but seen it done before on other equipment

Support should be the main question you ask, the new machine will have both support and spares available for many years, how much extra is that worth?

Goat is very smooth and soft

£50.00 or $75.00

It's a big jump to try and do Tooling and leatherworking at the same time I would suggest making a few leather items first untill you are able to make some nice items and than move onto tooling My thinking is even if you make the best tooling in the world it will look bad if the object it's on is poorly made A cheap chinese set will cost only a few quid and when you know there limitations, you will have the expertise to know what better tools you need, then be able to spend your money wisely

Cut 6 pieces of leather about one inch wide and six inches long, sew two of them together on day one, then another two on day two and the third pair of day three Now lay them out together and see how much your sewing improved in only three days, imaginme how it will look after a month Life is hard when you learn a new skill, but soon becomes natural and easier, apprenteiceships last normally three years so only 2 years 8 months to go

Hello, Welcome to the forum, loads of old codgers here as well as some young folk

Found this site which may be of interest for those looking for something different in leather http://www.frogjellyleather.com/

I found it hard to consistantly hit the stamps square on with a round maul, and when i changed to a leather hammer, i found it far easier; due most likely to it having a flat head. no doubt using a round maul gets better with practice, but it does seem strange to use a round object to hit something with and expect to always make contact at zero degree's Come to think of it I have never seen a carpenter hit a nail with a round head hammer

Thats mighty impressive

Nobody is saying they are industrial machines, they are low cost domestic machines with a foot feed that do a job, if you are a professional using them every day , then no doubt they would fail, but they are tough for what they are I'm Out

I brought a ford car that was crap a few years ago, does that mean they are all crap, I bet there are loads of stories about people buying Singers that were faulty, they may actually pack them better these days aswell. comon lets be fait about it Wiz ps I dont have one and not buying one, just pointed out a cheap solution for what looked a simple and probably not to often done job that wanted doing

You could also try a fresh needle

Found this on Youtube and at £300 plus the changes even if it only lasts a few years it might be a good buy for hobbie leatherworkers, but impressive speed control

Thats harder than sorting out the fact and fiction of your mr Wallace guy in Brave Heart