chrisash

Thanks folk especially Tejas Actually I did notice the wheel turning before i asked so was not the tension but the clutch ring in 180 degrees out, fooled me as the clutch still switched off for bobbin winding and sewed some of the time Now with the clutch ring cleaned and replaced the correct way its runs well even tried a 4 layer 1.5 chrome and all ok with 69 and even single1.5mm veg tan, though only really used for fabric now Dam machines seem to run better if you follow the makers directions rather high a

Sorry live in Norfolk but family tree goes back with loads in Rotherfield back to 1528,some in Lewis, Battle and Dymchurch, myself born in London but dragged up in Folkestone

Hi Lepravo are a good UK company for many leather tools as well as leather and other bits, so worth a look http://www.leprevo.co.uk/knives.htm

Hi My 201 has started slipping the clutch for no obvious reason sewing fabric I have taken the wheel off removed the clutch plate, cleaned and removed any muck and replaced, but still the same problem motro slipping on many occassions without reason and then works ok for a while Clutch release works as normal for running bobbin Clutch ring did not appear to have much ware when taken out

I did see the same thing much cheaper on Etsy last week but cannot find it now

Mocivnik One thing you could do to hopefully limit and set up problem,s is to ask them to video your machine, including the serial number and a test piece of the leather, thickness and thread size you want. that way at least you have a visual record of the machine prior to purchase, what you don't know is if they will do that for you, but if not go elsewhere I dont know about Australia and can understand Darren is a bit upset about people using his when he is a dealer, but in the UK we have loads of sewing machine engineers who are freelance and happy to work on any machine and that's there main source of income

Have a look at Kydex its a man made material that is incredibly hard wearing and many make holsters out of it, you can either drill it for rivets or sew it with a 441 but will apparently well outlive leather, I have never used it but read some posts on this forum, you ac even heat it up and shape it to any form

From the look of jls work i guess he qualifies as someone who knows his tools. to be able to do work like shown, so a very valid point Maybe names were made 10 or 20 plus years ago when the skill requirement was very high to make some items with the result of very high prices, with the advent of CNC machining maybe the old skills are now only as good as the machine making them and its programmer and costs to make are far cheaper. Just a point of view

Is not the speed of rotation irrelevant, as its the pressure applied that is the key factor, you can use high speed with little force or low speed with a touch more force, hence you can hand burnish or machine burnish Maybe we should also have a round edge tool to cut of the corners rather than a flat edge tool

I have a Singer 201k that just purrs yet was built in 1927, when you listen to it its hard to understand how so many parts can run in unison so well and with all the years of use you get no vibration at any speed just the perfect purr of a fantastic machine, I don't use it for leather apart from goat What i am trying to show is that in many occasions the old machines were fantastically designed and made with near perfect alignments and gears that fit perfectly. to give virtually unlimited use through the past and future generations So I would suggest you consider a older machine but one that has plenty of spares availability, which you may not ever require, but handy if you do need something Many clones are great machines, , but others especially the unknown makes or just badge'd ones from unknown backstreet Hong Kong sellers may just be a very bad buy, quite a gamble

Go to limerick in Ireland and ask he chief of pixies, and he will give you the pattern, Honest

This is on ebay selection of old brother heads plus a adlet cylinder head starting at £100 bid Probably rubbish but might be of interest to someone https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/113265510035?_trksid=p11010.c100352.m3747&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160928094120%26meid%3D205ad6b536fd4cd69903193fc253de72%26pid%3D100352%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26b%3D1%26sd%3D232931288185%26itm%3D113265510035&ul_noapp=true

I recently brought the "Leodis" Ian Atkinson folded edge pack and whilst £21 is more than others, it is a really good pack and comes with a four hour plus video doing a step by step talk through with loads of extra advice, the video URL comes with the price. there is also a smaller preview on YouTube under leodis no 8

You can also pack them with sand so still enough to knock someone out but not crack their scull

Reply to your Glue, Just by contact glue where you put a layer on both parts wait about 5-10 minutes until dry to touch and then place the two bits togethjer and lightly hammer the parts around the glued area

Having owned and run a embroidery company for many years until last year, the computerised sewing machines can have 24 heads each with 15 different coloured needles and the 6 head machines can have 3 heads doing one design whilst the other 3 do a separate design all at 1200 Stitch per min, just pure magic to listen to. if a thread breaks just that head stops to be sorted out then goes back 3-5 stitches and restarts

You brought a cowboy 4500 at great expense when you could have brought a lower cost leather machine to do the work it looks like you do, yet you talk about having no money and nobody can afford to by slightly better items from you. you are a confusing person thats for sure

Looks good, they did not skimp on the iron on that model, What was it made for heavy canvas ? What does the third pedal do?

Did you by the osbourne / Tandy one or a clone some guy sharpening/ polishing on this video These are good blades http://abbeyengland.com/Store/CategoryID/441/List/0/catpageindex/2/Level/a/ProductID/75962

Have a good look at these boots, the stitching is smooth and well sewn regardless of the price, someone has taken time to make them the best that they can for the price Unfortunately you tend to rush things and turn out very poor quality and blame everyone else

Different makers have different quality, so try not to buy the low cost blades

That's so good its creepy, like a ghost coming out of a sheet of leather, wish i had your skills

Rustic Why do you always fight the forum full of experienced people, in the video above you see one of your holsters, the outline machine stitching is nice and smooth around the curve which is good but the actual edges are very rough which shows a lack of attention, on the middle of the holster the presumably mag holder is all over the place and exceedingly rough work Now if you did it again and took your time rather than rush it, you could cut out the leather using a paper pattern to get it looking uniform, then using dividers or a compass mark your stitching line onto the leather a set distance in from the edge, then take a few minutes to line the rest up central to the design and so on This all takes time but when its finished people will pay more and tell others of your work, then people with more money may want to buy a better product from you Your country is poor, but still has very rich people living there and some just comfortably off, you need to build the skills to be able to sell to the comfortably off who will probably pay ten times what a poor man will pay for your work You are adverse to using leather glue but to improve you need to change your mind so you can glue most things into place and then sew them, that way they do not move around as you sew Stop rushing around and spend a little time on attention to detail

If you sew the t pieces onto the main inside leather sheet, then Each card only needs to be as long as the card inside it plus a allowance to be able to sew onto the back of the inside sheet Sew the bottom to the inside sheet Do the same for the others so they stagger down the wallet each just long enough to hold the card and be sewn in. (all the cards apart from the bottom one can be the same length, probably half the length shown in your image That just leaves the bottom which is not a t card Hard to describe but hope you get the gist of it, you dont need the full length for the t cards Another option the bigger companies use is the do the t in leather but have the lower part in a nylon type thin material sewn into the t section

How can you charge by length, its silly as you need the same time to set up for a inch as you do for a yard, its your time that you need to make money on, so charge by time, you want to make $xx per hour and if things are very cheap say minimum charge quarter of a hour or half a hour It may take you ten minutes to look at a job decide how you do it set up the machine with the right thread and tensions and then start sewing, that's regardless of amount of time sewing the actual item