chrisash

My question is how well it sews, we all know they are built to a low price level, But how different is a patcher say singer 53 or older, row of stitches than a Chinese patcher that's set up properly. If you were given two sets of stitches could you really identify what one was made by the Chinese version

OK found the problem hidden among the settings was the option to turn on the Eprom whatever that is and it worked Many thanks

I wanted a bed levelling system and understood the quality of print was superior than the old 8 bit version plus built for the BL, so it seemed the obvious thing to change both at the same time along with latest software. ir does run silent now which is good but cannot level the z offset is annoying but assume not unsolvable, but like life in general we all want to play with new toys straight away yet computers often fail to live up to expectations during installation

Just upgraded my ender 3 to the new 32 bit board and all seems to work well except the instructions on applying the Z offset, using the latest creality maplin with cr bed leveller Go to auto home and moves to centre and takes measurement Move nozzle over the same spot as the cr measure probe Lower z axis to paper thickness Enter difference into z offset Bloody thing either tries to scrape bed or misses by 2 mm Any one have a idiots guide using the latest software Thanks Chris

The walking feet are just as they say The compound has the walking feet and also the needle also helps drag the material backwards to you get a much better stitch especially on material with a slippery surface Under the sewing machine section Wiz does a first class post on the benefits of the compound and a breakdown of sewing machine requirements for leather work

There is quite a bit of skill learning to get good results from a Patcher as you only have one hand free unless you either treadle or fit a servo

Is there another slot on the foot pad where you can move the rod connecting to the servo to so you get more travel from start to full position Another solution mentioned on this forum was to place a rubber tennis size ball under the foot pat to give more resistance to pressing down SA picture of your servo and linkage would help

Ahh Fantastic looking machine, only thing i can see missing is the Steam inlet pipe It's hard not to like the solutions the old engineers can up with to solve a problem

Assume you have tried Thomas Ware https://thomasware.co.uk/our-products/tanned-sole-leather/

Specs here https://www.sewingmachinery.com/adler/Durkopp_Adler_367.html and here https://www.duerkopp-adler.com/commons/download/public/367/B_367_EN.pdf

Most domestic machines quote Chrome Tan leather that can be sewn and they are generally under about 1.4mm and soft leather used for many items like coats and upholstery, they may do 1mm soft veg tan but thats about it without pushing the mahine to its limits and out of its intended design range of use. Most these days, also have nylon cogs rather than the stronger steel ones

In the rest of the UK we don't hear much about how the actual NI residents are effected by the border between the rest and NI and its easy to blame either the UK or and or EU governments for the problems, But as a outsider is Eire itself aiding to the problems or actually helping to reduce them.

Its to get a much better raised impression as the bottom plate presses up and the top plate down. trouble is the material be it leather or say steel must have room between them both, so in this case the top (Female) would be larger to allow for the thickness

When I started I nearly had a heart attack when told the price of veg tan, I contacted a local car upholstery company and they said come around we might be able to help. Visited them and they pay someone to take their scraps away. turned out I could take as much as I wanted, all chrome about 1.2-2mm most with chalk marks showing faults that i could not see, and bits 5 foot x 4 foot and less just for free in different colours A great way to learn on the cheap. but it appears many never really consider Chrome leather but just veg tan, yet plenty of things can be made with chrome which is far cheaper

Thanks Fred but still confused Cannot get a grip on the detail inside the female plate, say the male had letters xyz proud on the plate, there is no room to have a gap around the letters on the female plate. Just cannot visualise it, single plate is easy but looking at a more complex design with two plates one embossed the other debossed

Looking to print out a negative plus a positive Die plate to emboss or deboss say 2mm leather rather than just use one die My question is how do you adjust one of the plates for the thickness of the leather, is it just a case of expanding the design on the female plate by 2mm as a total percentage

I disagree with Johnny about the ladies bags, I would consider the majority are made from Chrome leather You will find a few UK based Facebook leather forums that will point you towards leather suppliers for all leather types, some are small companies like "Artesian Leather+ who do A size pieces of veg and chrome through to "Abbey" and many others

Just having to" Hunker down" unfortunately many leatherworkers end up offering a relatively small number of styles of goods apart from the tooler's, so if hand stitching puts you off before you start, imagine days spend making belts, wallets, Bags, Chaps, saddles or ?. Some are lucky and get requests for various new items but for many its a slog if you work on the same few items that sell well. Semi production where you make say 5 instead of just 1 cuts down considerably on time as it does away with all the setup time but can be boring after a while

Don't overthink things, as you say it's a hobby at present so spend a year or so learning the skills needed to make nice objects, if you can saddle stitch with good results then consider a sewing machine if that's what's needed, 99.9% of the population will never be able to tell the difference between machine and hand and the few who can may well pick out the slight fault in hand stitching first. So many seem to think they can make a living out of leather, and find that unless they come up with a fresh idea rather than Belts and wallets etc, it just does not sell or pay, you need to look at the work and attention to detail of people like Brian @RockyAussie to make money. Read Nigel Armitage's book and learn the skills and get some original idea's

Unable to use fusion 360 today it loads and then closes down. get a warning my personal licence expires in 28 days but nothing else

The Efka looks like a Needle positioner so that when you stop the machine the needle is either in the up position or down position The motor is a old clutch motor and you would most likely want to replace it with a Modern servo motor Sorry cannot help with missing bits

Beg to differ there is no question, Europe is a continent and Great Britain is part of it. The EU is different in that its a political union that is changing nearly all the time

Have a good look at the JUKI 1541 it may well fit your bill but flat bed and relatively low cost, or alternatively look for second hand. no one machine does all size leather the 441's are for the heavy duty brigade whilst great at that not so good if you want to make small items like wallets. upholstery machines handle 138 max possibly 207 thread

There is another different side to leatherwork; and that is using Chrome leather, far cheaper but uses the same skills

Another vote for Jack servo's