kgg

From your bio you mention your speciality is holsters for that I think you are going to need something in the class of a Juki 441 machine probably like the Cobra class 3 or 4 class, Cowboy 3200 or 4500. Since you are in Alberta you may want to checkout Leightons Mach line ( http://www.leightons.ca ) in Red Deer or Longeview Leather ( http://www.longviewleather.com ) Cobra dealer in Longview. See what they recommend and have used capable of sewing your stuff. Another alternative maybe a hand lever machine similar to the Tippmann Boss or the Cowboy Outlaw. Which ever way you decide to go it is not going to be cheap. kgg

Have you checked out the following video, it my offer so help in setting the servo motor even through it is for a Juki 8700. kgg

I agree that general instructions when dealing with dog owners generally is to give basic instructions. Like the dogs and forget about being to specific. Hell, we see it all the time that an owner buys a collar, puts it on the dog and forgets about it. The only time it is removed and hopefully cleaned is when the dog gets groomed. I have even had to cut collars off, particularly the metal choke chains. Drives me nuts. Just getting them to remove the collar everyday is a step in the right direction of keeping the dog healthy and the collar maintained. Personally I like the Martingale style collars leather or nylon because it is always worn slackish around the neck until you need it too slightly tighten. kgg

Do as Constabulary suggested, check for a label. The thread spool should usually be marked with a label on the inside of the bottom of the spool. With newer sewing thread it should be marked as V ##, T## or Tkt ## plus the manufacturer and type as well as other info. I have seen some of the less expense Chinese bonded nylon with just the Tkt size on the label. The difference between V69 and V92 is same, only .0018" or .0045mm difference which can make it hard to distinguish at times so sorting them out is a good idea. kgg

The forum started to work correctly for me sometime yesterday. Thanks again, kgg

Nice informative pdf. I would suggest adding a couple of things: 1. Before purchasing any firearm ask yourself is this the right calibre, barrel length and what you would like to do with it (target shooting, hunting, protection, etc.). 2. Have the owner pass the revolver to you with the cylinder open so you can determine it is unloaded and safe before handling it. See if the gun fits comfortably and is balanced in your hand. 3. Since appearance is important in helping to determine how the gun was cared for check visually that there are no major flaws like deep scratches or dents with the finish, modified sights, stripped screws, frame cracked, buckled/split/bent/bulged barrel, cracked / modified grips or any major modifications attempted. Does the finish look different on the barrel, cylinder versus the frame indicating parts replaced. 3. When checking the barrel look for excessive wear to the internal rifling of the barrel. The sharper looking the edges are the less wear on that barrel. 4. If the gun checks out arrange to go to a range and test fire to make sure it suits your needs / comfort level. Maybe a nice well cared for XX calibre but can you properly handle / control it or is going to sit you on your butt every time you squeeze that trigger. My thoughts, kgg

I pity you Johanna, there is also hiccups when software or hardware is upgraded or changed. Some things don't like to play nice with other things. Best of luck, kgg

That is great news, I'm sure Johanna will straighten it out shortly. Thanks for the update. kgg

So I not any crazier today then I was yesterday. That means it is happening in Canada and Britain. kgg

Not sure if I have this in the right place. Has any had the problem of not being properly redirected to the Forum page? I am being sent to the index page even through the location is suppose to be ( leatherworker.net/forum) have had to go through the index page and then click on Forums. It started to happen last night for me about 10pm. kgg

I think you maybe better off with a steel bodied portable walking foot to multiple layers. Reliable Barracuda (~$500 US at Homedepot), Sailrite LS series(~$900 US), Techsew 611(~$500 US) come to mind. kgg

Harry just buy it and tuck it amongst the rest, she'll never even notice. kgg

Hi wlg1908, I would suggest that you check with your local hardware / flooring store, somewhere they sell laminate flooring. The only difference I see between the one you listed and the one I sometimes use is the adhesive backing. Having the adhesive ability maybe a benefit to have for what you are doing. Checkout the flooring store and see if they have a scrap to try. The one I use is called Black Knight ( https://melmart.com/brands/black-night/ ) made as 1/8" underlay for laminate flooring which is also closed celled with a vapour barrier adhered to it that easily peels off. I use this as a anti skid pad on the bottom of dog beds and knee rests type stuff as it also doesn't shrink. Hell haven't even had any problems with machine washing / drying it. Sewing it can be a bit awkward at times as the material is semi flexible but can be a bit sticky on the needle / thread. kgg

I would get the client to supply the mags as JLSLeather suggested, old mags would be preferred just in case you damage them. There are just too many round capacity options for the Beretta mag available. You can get from 10 to 30 round capacity as well as a 2 round bottom extension option that completely changes the bottom look of the mag which may affect your design of the holder. Since a lot of shooters are very particular about their equipment the client may be worried about water damage to the mags if you are planning on wet moulding a holder. A possible solution maybe to strip the guts out of the mags and seal them with something like cellophane. I would suggest you have a discussion with the client outlining how you are planning on doing the holder outlining the pros and cons. kgg

I would suggest first you have a quick look at the manual ( https://www.manualslib.com/manual/940225/Singer-15-91.html ). The 15-91 can take V92 thread with a #20 needle but is better suited for V69 with a #18 needle. I prefer the bonded polyester thread over the bonded nylon particularly black. To get the tension right ensure you have the bobbin installed so it spins in a counter clockwise motion and then do a drop test. To much thread tension the bobbin will not spin in the case and to little it will fall to the floor. The object is to be able to pick the bobbin case with the bobbin in it by the end of the thread so it unwinds counter clock a bit when you give it a slight jerk on the end of the thread. If you change thread size you have to check/change the bobbin tension. The top thread will be a matter of using a scrape of material and adjusting the top tensioner dial to higher or lower numbers once you have threaded the machine correctly. Start with the top tensioner dial about half way around the number 4 position. Using different materials / thickness/ thread size will mean that you will have to adjust the tensioner dial accordingly to get a nice stitch. I would use some cheap fabric like an old piece of jean material and with the stitch length dial set to the lowest number to start, lever to the bottom. This should help you with getting use to the feel of the small foot peddle and how hard you need to push down for what speed. The main down fall I see with the 15-91 is going to be the eventual motor replacement. kgg

The singer 212g140 manual says the machine was a double needle compound feed with no reverse while the 141 had reverse. Made for sewing garments like coveralls, coats, corsets, bras. kgg

Once you get into holsters you are going to need a much heavier machine other then the upholstery weight machines. Remember that there is not going to be one machine that can do or handle everything. For what you want to do I think you would be looking at cylinder bed machine that would have a high lift capability and being able to handle V92 to 277 plus thread. kgg

The machine looks in really nice shape but my concern would be repair parts since Necchi don't seem to be that common of a machine. kgg

Wiz, that makes perfect sense why Juki specifies what the max thread and needle size should be run in their machines ... machine longevity. kgg

I just took a look at the Thor site and I think someone may have fooled up on entering the value of the thread capacities. Their site lists their 1541S has a thread capacity of V277 and their 1508 NH at V270. Juki 1541s capacity is V138 while the Juki 1508NH is V207. kgg

Nicely done and like the jack sap as well. kgg

The Consew P1541s-CC manual (https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1097826/Consew-P1541s-Cc.html?page=3#manual ) lists its max. needle size at #23 and uses the same 135 x 17 as the Juki. I didn't find a specific reference to min. or max. thread size but I figure it means that it would max out on the thread size of V207 not V277 thread ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ). I wouldn't be surprised that the Juki would also handle V207 thread size occasionally in a pinch but do think if you have to regularly go above the V138 thread size you really need a different machine. I do have a question more out of curiosity then usefulness, has anyone tried to run two top threads of different thread colours for contrast purposes of V69 threads through a needle? This would yield a combined thread thickness of .0230 " or roughly V277 equivalent in size not strength. kgg

A really nice job, excellent refinement over my method. It is sturdy, basic, portable and functional. Did you find you had to adjust the top thread tension any or was there really no additional thread tension introduced? This is what I think the forum is really about having a question / problem, finding / offering a solution and then the refinement of that solution. In this case the: Problem: Thread going underneath thread spool / tangling particularly for 8 oz black bonded nylon thread and portability. Solution: Put the spool horizontally which is a more natural unwinding position as the thread spool was filled horizontally during the manufacturing process. Placing the spool horizontally does remove the counter clockwise thread twisting action as the thread unravels from the spool which in turn would reduce / eliminate thread springiness or spring back. kgg

Wiz that is great info on the bobbin case problems so far it seems I have been lucky. I have not experience the bobbin case related issue but the info about the problem and solutions may well come in handy down the road. Maybe my machine was setup properly in the beginning at the dealer and/or dumb luck coupled with putting a drop of oil in the basket / hook area often doesn't hurt, weekly cleaning out of the basket / hook area to remove lint etc. and always installing a new bobbin with the machine titled back to ensure that it correctly snaps in place. Cann't seem to get my fingers down into the slide plate properly and don't like doing it blindly by feel from underneath while trying to get my fingers through the opening in the bottom tray. kgg

Hi Lance, I have found that my Juki 1541S has meet / exceeded my expectations with no problems (knock on wood) other then the dumb pedal user. If I can force it under the presser foot it will sew it. Most of my stuff incorporates hard back 1200 gsm Sherpa, high density rubber, ripstop material all of which is dog related. In the topic " Work Bench Lighting" you can see in the second photo the off-white Sherpa that is just shy of about 2" (the beginnings of a dog bed). I just completed a custom sized one two days ago for a client that was just over 2" thick. When this material was compressed down it just managed to fit under the foot. As far as leather I have only done a couple of layers of light upholstery leather. The machine still amazes me as to what abuse I can ask of it. If the Juki will do the job I would advise you to get the Juki 1541"S" which has the built in safety clutch not the Juki 1541, it could save you a repair bill down the road. Also don't forget to bring some samples of the thickness plus a bit of what you are planning on using. kgg kgg