kgg

Look forward to seeing your improvements. kgg

Hi dikman, I would be interested in knowing what you come up with. Bearings would really reduce any thread tension drag. I seen quite a bit of difference going from 3/4" to 3/8" for the horizontal support rod, would have tried a smaller diameter rod but didn't have one. kgg

Hi dikman This was an ongoing battle having to contend with the spring back / excessive uncoiling of 8 oz spools of bonded nylon thread. The d stuff would go under the bottom of the spool and get wrapped then of course screw-up tension and break. Having the spool suspended horizontally solved my problem. I have tried it with 1lb spools and it works as well. I think the most important part is forcing the direction of the thread so it uncoils from the middle of the spool. The only thing is, it does change tension of the thread a fair bit and you have to readjust your tensioner to compensate for the increase in spool thread tension. kgg

I use ripstop nylon a fair bit and use bonded Coates Dabond polyester rather then bonded nylon. I find the bonded polyester comes off the spool / bobbin more evenly and is less springy then bonded nylon. It is also supposedly has better resistance to UV for outdoor use. I know from experience on my stuff that it does withstand multiple washing in beach and drying then bonded nylon. I would suggest that you try a comparison of both thread types for your stuff and see which thread type works best. Most times I use V69 with a #18 needle but if the stuff also incorporates high density rubber or other material I move up in thread and needle size. What I can tell you is that you will need at least three or four layers of material to give you a nice looking seam. The nicest seams I seem to be able to get is with double fold ripstop binding for the edges. kgg

I like the wheel spinner idea. kgg

I came across an online auction for "Ontario Orthotic Lab" that maybe of interest to people in the Hamilton area of Ontario, Canada. If it was closer to me I would consider bidding on a couple of items, just don't want to travel 5 hours each way this time of year. What caught my eye was 3 table mounted hand mini cutters (lot 10, 11 & 12) and 2 swivel head hydraulic clickers (Lot 32 & 33). Also I have no interest or association with this auction whatsoever. The link if anyone is interested is: http://www.danburyauctions.com/ontario-orthotic-lab/ kgg

It is nice to save some money but. I would like catskin suggested go and test the used machines with your stuff plus a bit and see what happens. Which you should do as well with the new ones you listed. The Juki has a safety clutch but only handles 138 max thread while the Cobra's handles max thread 207. I don't know what the Consew and Highlead will handle. The Highlead is a walking foot probably not a big deal but the others are compound feed machines. I would seriously look at the Juki 1541S. If you are planning on a new machine Buy ONCE, Cry ONCE. kgg

I agree with Bikermutt. It probably has it place in the market for certain items/locations but comparing it to his Juki 1508 is a real stretch at best. Hell that whining sound alone when it's running compared to a Juki 1508 or any other Juki for that matter, come on get real, no comparison. kgg

Do a search for "rivet press" there are so many suppliers. Most are made in China in varying styles (pliers style or table mounted) and prices are all over the place. kgg

I use a 5'-4" long by 3" wide flat piece of aluminium for long cuts or markings and just clamp both ends to the table with C-clamps or squeeze clamps. kgg

If I am not mistake the groove in the needle should be facing the direction the thread enters the eye of the needle. So just turn the needle around so the groove is facing you. kgg

I haven't found that yet but is a major consideration. Maybe moving the swing arm fixture up and out of the way as I need is helping. kgg

I feel your pain, in Canada we are to becoming a nanny state as compared to what it use be like 20 years ago. I understand your problems may change with the EU exit thing hopefully for the better. kgg For me the cluster worked best. kgg

I would imagine they would be available just about everywhere. Actually my son took the 5 in 1 that was in the light to do something and put a 6 in 1 in my light. I didn't notice until this morning. kgg

I purchased them from Amazon.ca ($14 CA) but they are also available off Amazon.com about $14 US. If you go to Amazon do a search for " 5 in 1 light socket adapter ". Different shapes and styles are there. I find them coupled with what IKEA calls a " work / wall light " works really good. I use a " work / wall light " clamped to the back of my sewing table and a magnetic led on the sewing machine as well. kgg

I have had lighting issues over my work bench, light in the wrong spot and not enough or to much. So what I have done is purchase a 5 in 1 multi socket light attachment and placed it in a swing arm lighting fixture mounted to the wall above the table. Add / subtract light bulbs and move it in/out and left/right where I need it over the table. Table is 5'-4" x 4'-0" and can be reduced to 4'-0" x 4'-0" buy dropping the sides. Before anyone asks most of my stuff is related to dogs with an average size of about 50 inches. The pile of hard back Sherpa on the table is about 1 1/2" thick which the Juki 1541S handles with no problem. If I can get whatever under that presser foot were good to go. The roll of high density rubber on the table is about 3mm thick and is combined with 5/8" Sherpa and other materials to form a non slip surface for kneeling pads / dog beds and the roll of green material is waterproof ripstop. Please excuse the mess, just getting ready to do a couple small items. All comments welcomed.

I have always seemed to have had a problem with 8 oz spools of bonded nylon thread particularly black of uncoiling then the excess thread going under the bottom of the spool and getting jammed. I do like the smaller 8 oz spool size as it gives more colour options rather then having to purchase the 1 lb. spools. Tried various methods of stopping the excessive uncoiling of thread with the traditional way of standing the coil straight up on the thread spool rack. None of my methods seemed to work and even on occasion had it happen with 1 lb. spools. Never had it happen with bonded polyester thread, hum. My solution seems to have worked. I mounted the 8 oz. spool or troublesome 1 lb. spool horizontally using stuff I had on hand (2 - turn buckles, 1' of scrap pipe 3/8" pipe, adjustable grooming arm, 2 eye bolts). The turn buckles allow the spool to swing if needed, provide support to the spool and unhook to allow for a spool change. I placed one eye bolt about halfway up the 8 oz spool forcing the thread to always be in the middle and about 4 inches above the spool. The second eye bolt is there just in case I need to use a second thread hole. I tried 3/4" pipe and it had to much surface tension with the spool shaft but 3/8" pipe works just fine. The adjustable grooming arm allows for 2 points of height adjustment on the shaft and can be clamped to the table top anywhere. I did have to change the thread path and use the thread hole for the bobbin tensioner rather then the normal top thread path. So far all I had to do is make a minor top tension adjustment. I have attached some pictures, I hope this helps someone else. Comments always welcomed. The green cloth is under the presser foot to catch any oil drops, I just done my weekly oiling on the machine. kgg

Extremes whether cold or heat always creates hell and havoc with people, animals and all types of electrical / electronic equipment. Besides that the extreme temperatures swings in a 24 hour period can be summed up this year as, gross. kgg

Try using V92 on the top and V69 in the bobbin it may result in the knot being more in the centre. You will probably have to re adjust the bobbin tension to give you the right tension. kgg

A couple of pictures of your thread path, how you installed the bobbin, the needle size and the thread size you are using would be of a great help to sort out you problem. kgg

Which parts were replaced? I rebuilt a couple of 127 and 128 over the years and like Wiz when the machines were done they worked like the day they came off the assembly line. Something seems amiss. kgg

Should have been 180 degrees. kgg

Have you tried reverse stitching by rotating the project after about three stitches. Method would be to stitch three stitches and with the needle down all the way in your material allow the needle to come up about 1/4 of the way from it's deepest point then lift the presser foot off the material. With the presser foot lifted off the material turn your project around 90 degrees and sew back three stitches, rotate material again and continue to sew. Repeat at the end of seam. kgg

The main goal is to get the bobbin thread slightly buried in the material or nearly halfway in leather. The tensions needed are going to be different for different thickness and material type. With your top tension knob not having a dial reference number it is going to make it more difficult to get constant top thread tension. I would suggest maybe gluing a small paper disc to the tension nut then numbering it around from "0" to "5", finding a disc that has numbers on it that will fit from another machine or using a label maker to place numbers on the tension nut. Something to give you a constant reference for doing different projects. Also note that different thread size (v69 vs v92 vs v138), type (cotton vs bonded nylon vs bonded polyester) and colour (black tends to be stiffer in bonded nylon) are going to play a large part in your tension adjustment. My advise is to set the machine up with a thread / needle combination that works best for most projects, it will save time and reduce frustration with your projects. kgg

It maybe that you feed dog is set a little to high and grabbing / holding unto the material. Yes, you will have to adjust the tensions but that is going to be dependant on the type and or mixture of materials as well as the number of layers of material. Tensions for ripstop combined with Sherpa and or other fabrics is going to be different then just ripstop or just the other fabrics alone. How you combined fabrics together will also determine the necessary tensions, sometimes you may have to increase the top thread tension other times decrease it slightly and the same goes for the bobbin tension, it is going to depend on your project. Normal, most times you need to move the hand wheel slightly. What materials are you using and number of layers? Also are you using a clutch motor or servo motor? kgg