kgg

Totally agree. I think you should have a look at this discussion as it will give you some insight on the CB3200. If you are looking at the CB3200 for sewing capacity with heavier thread you would probably be better off looking for a Juki TSC441 clone like the Cowboy 4500. What are you planning on sewing with what size of thread keeping in mind what you want to sew in the future??? Knowing those things maybe the CB3200 maybe the right machine, maybe a Class 1341 would be a better option or jump right to the Class 441. kgg

The machine looks in good condition. It would be nice to know what was rebuilt on the machine. The price up here in Ontario, Canada for a used Juki LS-1341 would be in USD about $1200 USD to $1500 USD. An example of a Juki LS-1341 from a vendor in Toronto who does ship: https://dixietailoringsupply.com/product/juki-ls-1341-used/ kgg

You didn't say what part of the US you are located as prices can vary a lot depending on your location, the overall condition of the machine and whether it was used in a commercial environment. As a note you could probably get a clone LS-1341 for about the same price or less then what you would pay for good used Juki LS-1341. kgg

I couldn't find be it a brief search much information about their thread or even where it is made or how makes it for them. kgg

I normally use A&E Bonded Nylon Thread and today I finally got around to sewing a dog lead. The width of the leather lead is 3/4 " and is made up of 2 layers of 6.5 oz chrome tan leather glue back to back that way it has a nice finish on both sides. I didn't have the matching brownish color thread in V138 (Tex 135). I probably could have gotten two 1 lb spools (1 for top thread and 1 for bobbin winding) from A&E however I decided to go based on cost to go with two 8oz spools of V138 (Tex 135) from Tandy Leather which was thread from the Leather Machine Company. The label on the bottom of the 8 oz spools indicated V138 (Tex 135) Bonded Nylon. I threaded the Techsew 2750 Pro up, new project means new needle (Schmetz #23), new bobbin of thread and adjusted bobbin tension. Ready to go, pedal to the metal. Made the rookie mistake of not doing a test piece run. Top tension was way off, top looked sorta OK but the bobbin thread wasn't a birds nest but nowhere being pulled up. What did drive me nuts was the needle positioner as in every-time I stopped the needle went to the down position. If I was keeping the Techsew 2750 Pro I would remove the needle positioner like I have done on the TSC441 clone. My impression of this thread is (not good or bad just it's different then what I'm use to): i) feels soft and acts more like Bonded Polyester ii) requires a lot more top tension then the A&E bonded nylon Next week I am planning on testing a sample of the V138 (Tex 135) Bonded Polyester from NEW-STITCH on a leather belt constructed the same way as the dog lead, double 6.5 oz chrome tan. I just received the thread yesterday from NEW-STITCH. Any thoughts / your experience?? kgg

A couple of photo's would help. Start with the simple stuff first: i) motor plugged in and turned on. ii) Motor doesn't spin maybe a blown fuse. iii) Motor spins belt doesn't retension belt. kgg

Ain't getting old wonderful grand. kgg

I'll blame that on having a seniors moment. kgg

The best one to answer the conversion to needle system 328 needles and possible supply of 794 LR needles in the smaller sizes would be @CowboyBob. You should drop him a note. kgg

Yes you will not only have to make the needle bar adjustment but also a timing adjustment and a hook to needle adjustment. If you use a different diameter needle then it was designed for then the needle will sit more to the left of the hook and if the diameter varies by size like @Constabulary has mentioned then you maybe constantly doing hook to needle timing adjustments. You are looking for 120/130/140 needles which equates to using V92 thread. Why not save all the fooling around with converting to a different needle system and convert to using a larger thread size, V138? The cost of a 10 pack from the thread exchange for 794 size 160 LR point is $12.99 (~13 cents each). The cost of a 10 pack from the thread exchange for 328 size 140 LR point is $11.29 (~11.3 cents each). For me the less then the two cent saving would not be worth the associated conversion headache. kgg

Have you checked to see how much slop there is on the bobbin / hook shaft. If the needle is slightly delayed due trying to punch through too thick a material with too small a needle for the thread being used. Then combine those with any slop due to wear and tear of the machine then hook could be striking the needle or the needle could be hitting the bobbin case or if the needle is being buckled the needle probably will break. Personally I think you are using the wrong class of machine and just asking to much from a domestic sewing machine. The Singer 15-91 was meant to sew Fabric not leather. Two layers of 5 to 6 oz for a total of 12 oz leather which is roughly about 1/4" thick ( https://www.leffler.com.au/leather-thickness-conversion-chart/ ). You should read this article about what machine you need to sew leather consistently at that thickness. kgg

Here is a good video that should help: kgg

Changing to servo motor may give you enough slow sewing control. If not add a speed reducer pulley as finding a larger hand-wheel probably is going to be difficult. kgg

What needle system are you using, 34, 134, 134-35 ??? (reference: https://www.thethreadexchange.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=needle-systems-pfaff-8-to-143-U-12#Models_34_to_70). You could also try and raise the needle bar up. The simplest way would be to leave the existing pulley alone and install a speed reducer pulley. kgg

If I'm not mistake the CB3200 will take the Juki TSC-441 accessories but would suggest you contact @CowboyBob as he would know for sure. kgg

How true. kgg

Looking at your first video it appears the tap on the bobbin case is not in the slot on the underside of the needle plate. kgg

Thank you. My good deed for the year. kgg

I sold my Consew 206RB-5 about a week ago and she finally was able to picked up the machine this morning. Normally I help to strip the machine down for loading, cash on the barrel head and it's gone. Since these people only live about 15 minutes away and this is the first industrial machine they have owned I offered (mistake) to tag along and help get it all setup again. Neighborly thing, sort of peace of mind for me knowing it would get setup properly and working properly at their location. The sewing machine was all dolled up with that pretty (useless) drive belt side cover which can be a pain when installing the machine back into the table if you haven't done it before. The machine head was removed from the table and secured on it's backside with the presser foot in the down position on the back seat and the table / motor was slide into the back of their pickup and strapped down. After we got the machine and the table mated back together the first questions were "How come the light doesn't work? Where's it's plug?" I explained that light was plugged into the servo motor, when the servo motor is turned on the light comes on. I further explained this is a nice feature so you know that the machine will not magically start sewing if her dog a nice little springer spaniel, decides that the foot pedal is at that perfect angle to rest his head for a nap. I went on to explaining the various normal things like top threading, how to set the bobbin tension, oiling, filling and installing a bobbin, installing a needle and then getting her to do it. Just the usual stuff. While the machine wasn't turn on and we were discussing something neither of us notice the dog had laid down with his head on the pedal and when she just reached over to turn the machine on off to the races it went. Luckily we had some fabric under the presser foot. It startled both of us for a second. Now she knew what could happen in the middle of the night. What surprised me the most was this lady sews in a industrial setting and regularly uses a Juki DNU-1541S and a Consew RB-5 which sounded good and I figured I'd be home in under an hour. Oh NO, nobody ever showed her the basics like: i) holding the top and bobbin thread for at least three stitches on starting a seam before reversing forget about starting the seam three stitches in and going into reverse before going forward. ii) how to clear a thread jam iii) how to properly get the bobbin thread up after replacing the bobbin iv) filling a bobbin while sewing v) tying the ends of the top thread together and pulling the new thread through to the needle vi) proper needle to thread size vii) oiling a machine viii) when to change a needle ix) which way to install a needle x) using two spools of thread with one spool dedicated for winding the bobbin You have to remember I'm not a teacher it just ain't in my DNA so that stuff it's really outside my comfort zone. I guess the moral of the story is never to take anything for granted. Maybe it just me but that's my chuckle / penance for this Sunday. kgg

Thank you. I do like my Bambu Lab X1C 3D Printer it has a much better print quality, more accurate and 10 times faster then PRUSA gear. kgg

Thank you @DieselTech. The first two photo's are the best overall I could get of the butcher block table which is basically half of the 16' long section on that wall of the room. In that room I have about 40' (12.2m) of table used for other things. The butcher block itself is 1 3/4"(44.89mm) thick X 36" (915mm) wide which I use for cutting. Also if you noticed the electrical outlets they are placed 46" (1.17m) above the floor to the top of the cover plates with six separate 20 amp circuits in that room. As a note all my 15 and 20 amp receptacles in the house are at the 46" (1.17m) mark. The steel ruler in both photo's is 6' (1.83m) long x 2" (50.8mm) wide. The last two photo's are closeups of a the two styles of supports. One shows the supports that just hold the flat plate tight to the edge of the table and the other shows a support that also extends the flat plate to about a 1/2" (12.7mm) above the white colored 1/8" (3.37mm) thick HDPE cutting boards. kgg

I had been cuting on a 3' x 8' section of one of my butcher block tables and always struggled with getting an acceptable straight cut for things like straps etc. I didn't want to upgrade to a proper leather slitter machine as the number I do is limited and is for dog leads. So here is what I done. I used: i) 1/8" HDPE is used as a cutting board left over from doing some upgrades in the dog boarding kennel ii) 3/4" x 3/4" metal 90 degree angle edging also left over from the dog boarding kennel upgrades iii) 1 1/2" x 1/8" x 8' flat aluminum flat plate which I got at Homedepot for about $38 CAD ( $28 USD) iv) designed and printed 8 edge supports for the flat plate. Four of these supports are to hold the flat plate tightly to the front edge of the table. The remaining four supports also hold the flat plate tightly against the tables edge but also extends the flat plate up about 1/2" above the HDPE cutting board. The supports are spaced about 12" apart along the tables 8' front edge and attached to the table on the underside. This mounting prevents damaging the front edge of the table and allows the flat plate to be removed by simply sliding it up and out of the supports for removal. To cut a straight edge on a piece of leather I simply remove the flat plate then clamp it down on top of the leather and cut along the edge of the flat plate with a cheap dollar store utility knife. Gives a nice clean straight edge. The next step is to put the flat plate back into the edge supports, push the leather up against the flat edge and use whatever size of flat plate or 90 metal edge I need for cutting. The result is a nice clean strap with a straight edge. The two black doodads on the table are what I came up with and 3D printed to provide consistent dog lead handles and end loops for English style kennel leads and standard clip leads made with either rope or leather. All comments are appreciated. kgg

I wonder could this be caused by a bobbin case tensioner spring gone weak, over tightened and bent or a groove worn in?? kgg

The question: The V346 may slide nicely through the eye of the needle but... is the hole made by the needle large enough to allow for the V346 (top and bobbin) from being caught by the leather as this would become more critical as the thickness of the item being sewn due to more surface area that could act as a catching point??? kgg

A #25 needle is good for V277 but for V346 a #26 would be the choice ( Needle / Thread Chart: https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ) Probably to small a hole created by needle for V346 polyester. I would first change to a #26 needle like @RockyAussie suggested, readjust the presser foot tension and give it a try. Also check and see if there are any burrs in the top thread path like a guide, the eye of the needle, presser foot, feed dog etc. If it works great if not then change to a new spool of thread. kgg