kgg

My aim is that the plate is made up of three parts, the top part being HDPE sitting on top of 1 1/2 " plywood plate that has inverted "L" guides on two sides to create a channel and a steel base plate that would sit on the main C-channel cross members. The HDPE would be able to slide then from front to back on the plywood between the guides. The plywood wood have a pivot point on one side that would allow movement in a circular movement around that pivot point and the pivot point would also be able to move side to side. My hope is that with my design the leather on the HDPE top i) can be slide straight in or out between the side guides of the plywood ii) the HDPE and the plywood would be able to be swung outwards to me in a circular motion around the pivot point iii) both the HDPE and plywood would be able to also slide side to side over the base plate. With the standard manual clicker presses you swing the presser head around the vertical pivot point and the base is stationary. With the stop press the base has to swing around a pivot point. Only time and a few fancy words of encouragement will tell if it well work. kgg

Thank you. I'm just finishing working out the details for the actual swing away before I start building it.

Thank you.

I decided that I would like a manual swing away clicker press and done the calculations on what size of clicker press would work for me. A 5 ton. Then the next step was to check the pricing for one. What I found was that my budget would need to be somewhere between $2500 CAD ($1850 USD) and $3300 CAD ($2450 USD) depending on the vendor. Not happening. So me being me I figure I would purchase a new 20 ton shop / bearing press (Princess Auto ) and convert it too a swing away clicker press. I estimated that it could be done including the cost of the shop / bearing press for around the $700 CAD ($520 USD). Guess which way I choose to go??? Additionally the shop / bearing press is not a one trick pony as it will be used for other pressing functions besides leather. So I have been mucking around with this project on and off for a couple of months now. Here is what I have come up with so far. I have broken this into two parts, one for what I would consider necessary upgrades to the shop / bearing press and a second part dealing with the additional modifications necessary for a 16" x 12" the swing away clicker press. The first video is a overview of the, dirty dozen plus eight, mods for convenience and too severely reduce problems or minimize risks. Some mods reduce / eliminate the side to side or front to back slop movement of the main C-channel cross members and the base of the bottle jack, another eliminates the dreaded main C-channel cross member support pin creep then there are couple to prevent the presser plate (s) from slipping off the main C-channel cross members and falling on my tootsies. I usually where slippers while in the house and that is where the shop / bearing press will be. Others mods are for convenience like a parts catch / storage bag, lighting, lifting / lowering the C-channel cross members and installation of four retractable wheels for portability. I still for the life me can't see why all the design engineers and manufacturers with their fancy CAD programs hadn't figured out a simple solution to the dreaded pin creep that a lot of people complain about. It took me all of about 5 minutes to see the problem once it started to happen to me and maybe an hour designing a 3D printed solution. In this project the four main tools that I used were: 1. Metal Cutter: Canadian Tire MAXIMUM 7A Heavy-Duty Corded 4 1/2" Angle Grinder 2. Drill Press: King Canada 3. Welder: KICKINGHORSE F130 CSA-Certified Flux Core Gasless MIG with 0.035" wire. 4. 3D Printer: A modified Bambu Lab X1-Carbon with AMS A second video will be the mods needed for the swing away siding 16" x 12" clicker top and presser plate. Please comment and make suggestions as all are appreciated but be nice as I'm not a welder just an old matter hacker geezer. kgg Link:

Nicely done. kgg

First off the Techsew is sort of a Juki LS - 1341 / 1342 clone so the Juki installation / engineering manuals would be a good resource to have. Did you get any manuals from Techsew with the machine???? As far as marking goes the first place I would go is adjusting the height of the feed dog. If it is to high it will mark the underside and cause the top presser feet to be pushed in to the top side of the leather as well as contribute to the needle hole bulging. The bulging looks to me like the size of the hole in the middle presser foot. The manual will explain how to adjust the height of the feed dog. As far as the correct size of needle it will depend on what thread size you are using. The size 20 needle is typically good for V92 in thinner leather while the #24 would good for V207 in thinner or V138 thread in thicker stuff. Here is a good cross reference of needle size to thread size: https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html kgg

As per the advert it is a 2972B which is a cloneof the Singer 29K72. Yes they are a major step up from the "Tinkers Delight". Up here in Canada they range from $740 CAD ($547USD) to $1600 CAD ($1189 USD) with free delivery. They appear to be the same machines supplied by different vendors. I almost bought one but came across a decent Singer 29K72 with a treadle stand for $400 CAD ($300 USD). I don't know how the quality is in comparison to the more costly 29K clones dealer machines but there is a substantial price difference, $2500 CAD plus shipping versus $740 CAD with free shipping. That is about a $2000 difference when you factor in the cost of shipping. That money could be put into other equipment / supplies. Definitely something to consider. kgg

I wouldn't mind doing a course but if I had to invest in that much equipment I would have to think long and hard. All the courses I have done in my previous life whether computer or engineering related all the materials were supplied as part of the course cost. My thought is that if they set up smaller classes and supplied everything at a little higher cost they would entice more people to attend hence more sales of their products. kgg

Those are the good customers that are a pleasure to meet. What I have found since the "China Cough" a lot of people have become really what I call "entitled" and have forgotten the old adage " threat people as you would like to be treated ". kgg

Very nicely done. kgg

You really should read this article, it may help you decide what would be the best machine to look for. I think most of us have at some point have bought the wrong machine and it ended up being sold or is just gathering dust in a corner. Either way it was a waste of money and effort. kgg

In his day and age getting a machine for $200 that works and that can handle 10-12 oz leather is as scarce as hens teeth. The amazon machines, Chinese Patchers, I call them the "Tinkers Delight", which for most are going to be a waste of money but are great frustration generators. If you moved your budget up to the $1000 mark you could probably get a good used upholstery class machine depending on where you live or a new manual class 441 like a Tippmann Boss. kgg

The torque of a brushless is greater then one with brushes. However the brushless have a higher startup speed then the brushed servo motors. Personally I prefer the brushed servo motor over the brushless due to it's simple design. No electronics to add another layer of possible problems. But then again I don't need / want the needle positioning feature and the one that came with my TSC-441 clone is filed in the "special" drawer. That said most of the world except for North America are using the brushless and they are becoming more popular here as they are all being import from places like China. If I had to choose I would personally go with the Consew 550 watt that @Wizcrafts recommended. The next option would be the Reliable 6000SM. kgg

To narrow down the noise what I would suggest: Remove the Belt from the speed reducer to the sewing machine and run the motor. i) If the noise is still there then it is coming from either the speed reducer or the servo motor. Then remove the belt from the servo motor to the speed reducer. If the noise is gone then it is probably either a misalignment of the belt to the servo motor from the speed reducer or the the bearing in the speed reducer is dry and needs a drop of oil or a bad belt with a lump where it ends are joined. Then check the alignment of the belt from the servo motor with the large pulley on the speed reducer. ii) If the noise is gone then it is either coming from the speed reducer, bad belt, misaligned belt or the main bearing in the sewing machine. Make sure the alignment from the small pulley on the speed reducer is properly aligned with the sewing machine pulley. kgg

What I would do first is install a servo motor and dump the clutch motor. I then would install a servo motor either a brush type or a brushless, 550 or 750 watt. I would install the servo motor first without the 10 to 1 reducer you have as it probably is going to provide way to much speed reduction as the typical reduction is 3 to 1. If you go with a brushless I would suggest going with the 12 coil Reliable 6000sm ( https://reliablecorporation.ca/products/sewquiet-6000sm-servomotor ) 550 watt or if you want to go with a less expensive option or another speed reducer contact Chris at Japan Sewing Machine ( (905) 764-0100 ). Those companies are down in the Toronto area. kgg

Basically you have two main choices i) Brush type servo motor ii) Brushless servo motor Brush type servo motor have No electronic controller components. The typical size is 550 watt, use a simple dial for setting the motor speed and have typical startup speeds in the 200 rpm range. Brushless servo motors have a electronic motor control. The typical size is 750 watt, set the speed of the motor on control panel, have a typical startup speed of 500 rpms and have the built in ability of a needle positioner. The number of internal coils typically are 6 while the better ones have 12 coils. More coils the better the motor. Some of these motors with a needle positioners will not work properly if a speed reducer is added. Needle positioning feature some people love them while others not so much. Cost wise a basic brush servo motor is about $150 CAD while a 12 coil brushless servo motor is about $250 CAD. A 550 watt brush type servo motor should handle the torque needs of the Juki LU 563 without the need for a speed reducer while a brushless servo motor may require one due to the typical startup speed of the motor. kgg

The Techsew 2750 is the poor cousin of the Juki LS-341. Here is the Juki manuals: kgg Juki LS-341N Instruction Manual-1.pdf Juki LS-341N, LS-341N-7.pdf Juki_LS-341N_Engineers_Manual.pdf

When I compared the three machines I was going to order the Outlaw but decided against purchasing one in the end. I purchased a TSC-441 clone instead. My reasons were: i) After much thought I figured I couldn't see myself pulling the lever over and over to create a stitch. Then the machine wouldn't get used as often so it would just gather dust or I'd end up selling it. I guess I'm the "lets getter done type". ii) Greater availability of accessories and parts from a lot of different suppliers both domestically and from overseas. iii) All of the machines have a small usable throat space of something like 8 to 10 inches. All that said these machines do have there place but neither were the right machine for my needs / wants / desires. kgg

The Juki LS-1341 and clone cylinder arm machines have the same top load bobbin system as the 1508. Where are you located?? Maybe there is member close to you who could suggest a dealer in your general area. kgg

The problem I found is that if you are a little tired, have a little leg jerk or otherwise slip a little bit you stand the chance of royally screwing up the piece you are working on. The servo motor provides much better control right out of the box. The price of $195 for a servo motor installed is a decent price. Definitely worth the investment. I assumed the table was larger as you said it could be cut 8 feet (8'). Yes the standard is approximately 48" x 20". Unless you are really limited in the space you have I wouldn't bother. kgg

Yes and rightly so. The worst for trespassing in my rural area are the snowmobile users then the citi-idiots during bird / deer hunting season then the ones cutting down tree's without permission (tree poachers) then the truffle hunters then the garbage tippers then the illegal grow op's and of course the deer poachers. The only ones that I give permission too travel my land are the wolf/coyote hunter group, a trapper and the owners of the adjoining farms. kgg

Nicely Done. kgg

Chances are a lot of those are coming from places like China. Try Aliexpress. Example Link: https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-Horse-hair-brush.html?g=y&SearchText=Horse+hair+brush On the left side are the option for Delivery / Shippining Country / etc. kgg

Canada

Both the 1541 and 1508 should handle the thickest you want to sew in webbing. It's the leather where you say "Possibly thicker". If I'm not mistaken both machines have rated sewing thickness of 3/8" (9.5mm). Since you do want the "unicorn" I am going to suggest you consider a cylinder bed machine with a table top attachment. You will then get the advantage of a cylinder bed with the capabilities of a flatbed something like a Juki LS-1341 or clone. Why are you planning on using a top thread different then the bobbin thread? The strength of the stitch will be that of the smallest thread and probably harder to adjust top thread and bobbin tensions. Thread info: i) Tkt 40 is equal to V69 with a typical breaking strength of ~5 kg (11 lbs) ii) Tkt 20 is equal to V138 with a typical breaking strength of ~10 kg (22 lbs) A good cross reference chart for the thread and needle size can be found at https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html kgg