kgg

Option suggestions: 1. Why not make your own belt. I just purchased some 10 meters (32.8 ft) of 6mm diameter Rough Surface Green Polyurethane off Amazon.ca for $28.79 CA ( https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07W5L7NPV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 ) plus tax to make a new drive belt. This will be the main drive belt from a repurposed sewing machine motor a Rex 550 watt servo motor for my new to me Atlas lathe. 2. Buy couple off Amazon they are cheap, two for $14.99 CA ( https://www.amazon.ca/CKPSMS-White-Industrial-Sewing-Machine/dp/B08CXZBCXZ/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=3NE9LYGBI4UIM&keywords=56%2Binch%2Bsewing%2Bmachine%2Bdrive%2Bbelt&qid=1642740205&sprefix=56%2Binch%2Bsewing%2Bmachine%2Bdrive%2Bbelt%2Caps%2C115&sr=8-2-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFTSjEzOTRBRFBOMUomZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA5MDI5NjkzSFBFUElNN1lYNTdNJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA2NDE5ODgzNkpLQTJETjVNS0hYJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ&th=1 ) kgg

Some servo motors do have a reverse rotation switch on the back side. I have a Rex 550 watt servo with this reverse rotation direction switch while my other servo's don't have that feature. kgg

Looking at the manual for the SC-9 and the CP-130 (my search: juki with cp-130 controller wiring and found a good manual called "Control panel CP-130 INSTRUCTION MANUAL - Amazon S3" at s3.amazonaws.com.) and yes it is an overvotage error. What I did notice is there are three wiring diagrams. One for single phase 100-120 VAC, One for single phase 200 - 240 VAC and One for 3-phase 200-240 VAC. With the E11 are you sure it isn't single phase 200 - 240 VAC not 3-phase 200-240 VAC? kgg

I am not familiar with that machine but for those dollars I would be concerned with the lack of dealer support and down the road for repairs and access to replacement parts. Maybe better off getting a good used machine that has dealer support. kgg

What is the model numbers of the Juki's??? as the manual for those models may help. kgg

I good chart can be found at (https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html) also you should normally use the same size thread on the top as you use in the bobbin. The strength of the seam will be limited to the strength of the smallest thread size. Sometimes this is done for the look that a larger top thread gives or sometimes you can fool a machine into using a larger top thread then the machine is rated for by using the smaller machine rated bobbin thread. kgg

What may help also is if you check the ismacs.net site for Singer 99k or even the Singer 66k manual ( https://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/manuals/singer-sewing-machine-manuals.html ) kgg

Remove the leather string at the end of the handle and install a metal "O" ring and would make a great protective key chain. Is that teeth marks in the jack? kgg

Looks like the spring that keeps the bobbin ejector button ( the little round cross hatched button ) in it's normal up position is either broken or has become displaced. Maybe the red fuzzy stuff got caught and someone dislodged it taking trying to remove the red stuff. kgg

All very nice inexpensive useful designs. Great repurposing. kgg

Yes the selection of machines can be confusing, at times overwhelming with machines having similar specs and trying to figure out what some of the clone machines are closely related to. If I were now looking for one primary machine that would cover most items I would try and figure out what items would fall in the 90 percent bracket and buy either a really good used or new brand name machine to cover those items. If those items are done better on a flatbed like wallets then buy a Juki DNU-1541S (new~$1800US used ???). If you are doing 50 / 50 then get a cylinder arm machine and with a table top attachment like a Juki LS-1341(~$4000US) or and older Juki LS-341. Buy Once Cry Once kgg

These can easily be converted to 135x16 system by simply adjusting the needle bar up by about 5mm from the original position. kgg

Great news. kgg

Yes, their are no more true PFAFF's, Dürkopp Adler's or Maschinen GmbH ( Mauser ). They have been all acquired by the Chinese company called SGSB GROUP CO. when the ShangGong Co., Ltd. merged with Shanghai SMPIC Co., Ltd. back in 2005. They acquired PFAFF in 2005 and in 2013 acquired Dürkopp Adler and Maschinen GmbH ( Mauser ). The question for me is are those old respected brand names now just overpriced China clone's with an acquired brand name badge????? kgg

Try a led magnetic light from Amazon.com that should brighten things up. You can get two for $15.99 US ( https://www.amazon.com/AUTIDEFY-Lighting-Multifunctional-Gooseneck-Workbench/dp/B09K7F45Z4/ref=sr_1_12?crid=Y59GJ6BO0Y8R&keywords=led+sewing+machine+light+flexible+work+light&qid=1642258315&sprefix=led+sewing+machine+light+flexible+work+light%2Caps%2C50&sr=8-12 ). kgg

Yes the thread size 69 and 92 refer V69 (Tex 70, Tkt 40) and V92 (Tex 90, Tkt 30. A good reference table for thread sizes / strenght and needles sizing can be found at ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ). kgg

Without the thread threaded through what I notice: 1. The thread guide is not original as their should be two separate thread guides that mount in the holes just above the thread tensioners. 2. Are you following the Singer Manual for timing? If you don't have the manual you can get one here ( https://www.manualslib.com/manual/364320/Singer-112w139.html#manual ) 3. To thread the needle you need to use the thread controller discs closest to you and the thread needs to go throw the hole in the take-up arm closest to you. 4. The spring in the thread controller seems to be at roughly the 7 pm mark and should probably be adjust to the 9 pm position. 5. To do the needle to hook timing slide the cover plate off so you can see the hooks placement in relation to the needle rather then trying to see it from the underside. A photo of how you are threading from the needle would also be helpful. What system of needles not the size of needle are you are using as this can make a perfectly timed machine to not be able to sew. kgg

Excellent work. kgg

Another option would be the 3/4 version the Singer 99. kgg

I enjoyed the video, to the point. You can't beat old iron made with real metal probably will last forever. Too bad most of the the old iron didn't have some sort of walking foot. kgg

I think I would try to cut out the piece the cat had a go at and throw it out. I don't think you will get the smell out particularly once it gets wet or is exposed to warmer temperatures with high humidity. Had a friend who had their leather couch sprayed by skunk and had it professional cleaned. It was great in the winter but come those late summer days of hot temperatures with high humidity you would swear that skunk had sneaked back into the house. kgg

Someone needs to refund the Lift-Gate fee and the case of beer for the neighbor. Should contact the retailer to have it replaced. If you made the shipping arrangements then contact the shipper if the retailer made the shipping arrangements then contact them for both the Lift-Gate fee and the table replacement. kgg

I would say based on their history of making good machines it would be an excellent machine if you are doing production work and can justify the cost. I follow the "KISS" principal and all the extra computer controlled electronic features are going to be great but repairs down the road that probably will be another story. Since these are pretty complicated machines finding someone to do the repairs and finding the computer controlled electronic parts are not going to be cheap or easy. If I needed a machine with that type of sewing / thread capabilities I would look at a more basic mechanical machine (no electronics) something like the Juki TSC-441U at about 70 percent of the cost of the Alder. kgg

A good start would be a couple of photo's of your thread path from the thread spools to the how you are threading the needles as one needs to be left to right and the other right to left: 1. What size of needle and needle system you are using as it should be a system 126 x 9 or 126 x 3 or 126 x 1 or FO X 3 Singer manual says 126x9 but the others are an equivalent as per ( https://www.thethreadexchange.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=TTE&Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=NDL-SYS-SINGER-01 ) 2. What size of thread are you using. Max needle size is #24 so that would allow up to V138 in thick / tough material and V207 in thin material. 3. How thick of material are you try sew 4. What material are you sewing, Fabric or Leather kgg

I would first suggest if you are buying a new machine and can afford the price difference over a clone buy a brand name like Juki, Alder, PFAFF. A reasonable solution I think would be a Juki LS 1341 as it will probably cover off most of your requirements except for the roller foot. If you need attachments / parts all the clones within this class of machine are based around the Juki. When you decide to sell the machine it will be easier to resell and at a higher price then that of a clone. The PFAFF 335 probably will limit your thread selection to V92. The parts and accessories for the Alder and PFAFF tend to be manufacturer specific and expensive. For speed control whatever machine you decide on, buy it with a servo motor. If the control is still not what you need or like buy the machine with a servo motor and a speed reducer. I would still advise you to visit a dealer with a sample of your stuff and test ride a machine as this is an expensive out lay of cash. Buy Once, Cry Once. kgg