kgg

Thank you. That is a nice burnisher as it stays close to the body of the machine so you can apply a lot of pressure. kgg

Aaron Martin Harness Ltd. in Ontario and their website for those needles is aaronmartin.com/product.php?cat_id=989&catview=20&submit=View kgg

I think the the problem of missed stitches and catching on the back stitching is the size of needle for the size of thread you are using. A good reference for needle selection would be the one Toledo has on their website ( tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ). For V207 you would need a #24 or possibly a #25 needle for thick / sticky / multi layers to create a hole large enough so the top thread can be caught correctly by the hook. kgg

Nice work. kgg

There is no question the Proedge are nice looking burnishers. They are on the pricey side for someone who can turn their own with either a wood lathe or metal lathe. I am planning on turning one using a metal lathe that is also another reason for the question about using metal as a burnisher. kgg

Thank you all for the info. If I go with wood I would like to us a North American species. I can see the softwoods like spruce cracking / breaking / wearing or even your softer hardwood species where as your tougher hardwoods like your eastern iron woods, white oaks and hard maples being stronger. This info has sent me down the wood rabbit hole and so far have found the following info: A lot burnishers use the non native to North America rosewood Cocobolo which has Janka rating of 2,960 Ibf Native to North America: i) Southern Live Oak (Quercus virginiana) has Janka rating of 2680 Ibf ii) Eastern Ironwood (Ostrya virginiana) has Janka rating of 1,860 Ibf iii) Hard maple has Janka rating of 1,500 Ibf iv) White Oak has Janka rating of 1,360 Ibf As a reference your typical White Spruce has Janka rating of 460 Ibf. This raises the question if a good burnisher is based on hardness why not just go with metal or are there other factors? I couldn't find him so if you have a link I would appreciate it. kgg

As an quick example: Singer 29k70 and 73 ( ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/model-29-leather-stitching-sewing-machine.html ) Singer 29k71 ( youtube.com/watch?v=0LPAtMRN5ZU ) kgg

i) A & E ( American & Efird Canada Inc.) (514) 352-4800 or online at amefird.ca ii) Cansew (28 Apex Rd, North York, ON) at (416) 782-1122 or online at cansew.com kgg

I am planning on turning a 3" diameter burnisher and am wondering what material would be best suited and why for burnishing using a motorized burnisher? metal: steel / brass / aluminum wood: soft woods / hardwoods Any thoughts kgg

I particularly liked the video at about the 4:30 mark showing a excellent visual of the drop method of adjusting the bobbin tension. kgg

This maybe true that the drawer isn't original as I can only go back about 20 years of ownership. I did get the original manual, original table top and can only assume the base and drawer are also original. The Singer's did come with more ornate front designs similar to that of the 127/128's treadles on models prior to the 29k-70 series but they seemed to have changed to the plain face design on the earlier 70 series. I have never seen a Alder Patcher from the 40's or 50's and can't comment on the drawers that they came with. kgg

Just another China copy of the drop feed zig zag not a walking foot Singer 20U which were made for fabric up to denim weight. There are lots of them available from a number of suppliers with various badges on them. kgg

I have to keep that one in mind for future use as my area is on the second floor and machines on their out-the-door journey or are being overhauled are kept in the basement. kgg

Checkout Japan Sewing Machine & Supply Co (146 West Beaver Creek Rd Unit 5, Richmond Hill, (905) 764-0100) ask for Chris good service and excellent prices. The price of $433 for the PFAFF was a pretty decent price. They aren't a overly popular brand name in Ontario which probably has to due with upfront new machine cost and aftermarket access to parts / accessories being expensive. kgg

Glad you did get it home in one piece. kgg

The advantage, I think, is being able to use larger threads without the machine having to contend with the stresses of forcing the needle through and moving thick material. The benefit is being able to use a less capable less expensive machine while giving a good looking stitch. kgg

The only thing I would add is a Cordless drill and bits. kgg

The older Singers 29k 71, 72, 73 in particular the 1949 were rated for a #25 needle but the sliding needle plate / cover for the bobbin for those larger threads only came drilled for a #24 needle which is still V207. The newer clones are I agree rated for V138 and some even less. kgg

Great description of the China Patcher except for the motor part. kgg

This is what I do when I have to disassemble a industrial sewing machine for transport in my Honda Fit. Moving any industrial sewing machine is best done with two people but can be done easily done by one person if you break it down to relatively easily moveable pieces. 1. Cut top thread and tie off / tape the end closest to the thread spool to the machine. Remove thread from needle. Have the pressor foot in the down position. Don't remove top thread from tension disks so when you have the machine installed at home it will be just a matter of tying the top thread from the spool to the taped down cuttoff and pulling the thread from the needle end. That way you don't have to figure out how the machine gets the top thread path. 2. Remove all other items from the table top like i) the thread spool holder ii) tilt back stop remove it as well iii) bobbin winder. 3. As a lot of machines have the drive belt fully enclosed above table level remove the drive belt cover. The cover probably has a couple of screws holding it in place. 4. Tilt machine back slightly so the belt can be slide of the machines pulley as well as removed from the drive motor. 5. Tilt machine back a little further and lift straight up the machine from table. This is easier done with two people. I lay the machines on their rear side on something soft like a folded moving blanket. 6. Drain oil from oil pan by removing drain plug and wipe dry the pan with a cloth. If it just has a drip pan just wipe it dry. 7. Tilt sewing machine table over so the underside is exposed but put a cloth or piece of cardboard down so the top doesn't get scratched. 8. Remove the bolts that are holding the motor foot pedal and connecting rod from the metal side legs and motor. 9. Remove the screws, bolts, nuts that are holding the motor, controller, on/off switch etc to the table top. Pull motor straight up from the motor mounting bolts. If it is a clutch motor it will be heavy and is removed much easier with two people. If the machine has a servo motor I don't remove it, the controller or on/off switch from the the table top. My thought is I am probably going to replace the clutch motor anyway with a servo motor so it will be quicker in the end. 10. Remove the legs typically "K" legs and cross bracing from table top. I usually use a small two wheel handcart for moving the various parts to my vehicle but the sewing machine head I physically carry to my vehicle first to be wrapped and secured off the floor. I place the table top side down on moving blankets and the other bits and pieces around it. I take a complete socket set with both metric and imperial sockets, drill with various screw driver bits, couple of thumb wrenches and of course vise grips. Hope this helps, kgg

That is the China Patcher, guaranteed to provide untold enjoyable hours as a Tinkers Delight. kgg

Cute up-cycling. kgg

This maybe a firmware problem. It could be a broken wire or a wire / connector came loose during the upgrade. kgg

As I maintain they do have their place but... for the average hobbyist they are more of a tinkers machine that could get you out of a pinch. I wouldn't invest in one as an only machine or as an alternative to a good Singer 29K or even a clone of the Singer 29K. I do have both the Singer 29k and a China Patcher which is delegated to the darkest corner of the basement for probably an out the door journey after two more tinkering projects. kgg

The first thing I would advise is to change the needle system to 135 x 16 or 135 x 17. That would give you a better range of needle size selection and thread sizes. Good luck, kgg