kgg

I like the look of the weaver as I figure you could probably modify the wheel at some point to accept a belt so a servo or helper motor could be installed to save your arm. As far as dependability / service or use I don't know. kgg

You didn't mention the Weaver Cub, maybe another one to look at and consider. kgg

Hi Colt, welcome to the forum. If my math is right the thickness of what you sew is going to be somewhere be the 7/16" to 1/2 " thickness. This would put you above the upholstery case machines so you would be looking at machines probably in the 441 class. Since the Juki's in that class of machine are very expensive so the clone machines provide much more affordable options. I think in a motorized machine you would be looking at something like a Cowboy cb3500 new for about $2800 US. Another more affordable option that could work would be the one arm bandits like your Tippmann Boss new for about $1000 US or the Cowboy Outlaw new for about $1400 US. I know you said you had a budget of $400 so you are going to be in the used market but maybe this will give you an idea of what type of machine you will be needing. If you find a machine and are not sure of it's capabilities just ask as I'm sure someone would be able to help. kgg

I know I usually design the old school way, well over expected load and filament is such a inexpensive medium for prototyping. A lot also depended on that they were designed around my golden rule. No additional holes to be drilled or tap into the machine or table top. The bobbin thread swing-away and the supports has to be able to withstand the breaking strength of V138 thread which is about 22 lb (10 kgs) and any additional bending moment loads where as the snips / needle / bobbin holder on the top front of the machine they all swivel horizontally and vertically so they have to withstand my constant grabbing / banging. All my initial designs for my machines have gone through some form redesign and each machine has it own unique set of attachments to speed up or make things a little easier or be able to repurpose attachments made for a flatbed so they can be used on a cylinder bed. kgg

I use only one location for my top and bobbin thread pins, the location you are using for your bobbin thread guide pin, but I use the metal thread guide for the top thread and the PLA guide for the bobbin thread. This allows me to wind a bobbin at will without having to undo the top thread. Since you are using the standard thread spool stand you need to get the spools as close to the table as possible and the spool stand arm 2 to 2 1/2 times the height above the thread spool bases or you don't allow the thread to properly untwist. My particular setup has the thread going into the top and bobbin thread pin on top of the machine much closer to horizontal then yours to reduce angle thread tension. When I wind a bobbin I thread my bobbin thread through one of the outside holes in the bobbin and it then goes to a swing away thread attachment that holes the end of the thread and automatically cuts the thread flush with the side of the bobbin. I hated the end of the bobbin thread floppy around as I sewed or having to un-thread the needle and hold the end of the thread. I would use the thread guide pin location that you use for your bobbin thread and replace the flat horizontal top thread guide on the top cover of your machine as it has some severe thread cuts in it which may nick your thread and cause fraying and come out of the last hole rather then second last hole. I changed the angle of the next guide to the 2 o'clock position rather then the 3 o'clock position yours is in which did change the entry angle into the top tensioner slightly. The guide just before the takeup arm I changed the position to about the 1:30 position as this helped keep the thread from floppy to much to the left and crossing over to the other side and possible intermingling with the downside of the top thread from the takeup arm. Where the top thread enters the flat spring loaded bar just before the top of the needle should be 1) on the right side of the screw however I haven't found that to makes much difference 2) the flat bar tensioner needs to have the screw tightened in so the thread stays basically in one location with a constant tension so the thread doesn't slide or flop about. See if that helps. kgg

I have had to changed the height of the feed dog so it isn't as aggressive, severely reduced the pressor foot tension so the material isn't being forced down into the feed dog opening, run a layer of tear away paper between the feed dog and the material so the material doesn't ruffle / bunch up / curl. If the bobbin is spinning once the bobbin holder has stopped rotating my thought would be to install the bobbin in reverse so the thread is being removed from the bobbin against the direction of the bobbin case rotation. Also this could be probably caused by bobbins with the centers being out of spec like some aftermarkets ones have been known to be. kgg

When you stop are you keeping the needle buried in the material like if you were making a 90 degree turn or is the needle above the material with little pressor foot pressure being applied? I agree the machine needs to be dumbed down to handle V69 but preforms much better with V138 even my 1181n prefers V92. I do use polyester thread for items being regularly exposed to the outdoors UV or for items that are being exposed to a lot of bleaching as it stands up considerably better then bonded nylon. That is why I use brand name thread like A&E or Coates thread as they have a wide selection depending on what someone is planning on sewing. Yes it is more expensive but they seem to have put a bit of engineering into their products rather the one size fits all, sort of like panty hose, offered by the less expensive off shore stuff. kgg

I have some of those as they came with my Kobe LS 1341 and I will not use them. The tolerances and balance can be all over the place so I don't think they would be of any benefit. I don't think you are having as much a backlash problem rather a problem with the material. I find that to sew thin stuff particularly with ripstop it can become a real balancing act in getting the bobbin thread to properly set. I put the problem down being caused by the makeup of the ripstop. I find some things that are less then 4 to 5mm in thickness a bit of a chore with the 1541S so for those items I use the less capable 1181n. A good reference to show how the 1541 reacts with light, medium and heavy fabric take a look at youtube.com/watch?v=4JES-2I7h3o versus the less capable 1181N with the same material youtube.com/watch?v=IKJuKTrjsbw&t=300s kgg

I assume you mean bobbin. My Juki 1541S can be cranky with bobbins if I mistakenly use an after market bobbin while the Juki bobbins never give me a problem. That said if you are having problems with a backlash spring don't use it. Also I find if I use a bobbin that has been wound with thread for more then a couple of days before use it I may have problems as the thread will develop a coil spring memory and cause problems. I also found that using 8 oz spools of thread created problems both with the top thread and bobbin thread with black thread being worst. I would do as Wiz suggested and also change the spool of thread to a brand name preferably in a 16 oz spool size. Can I ask why you are using V69 thread and what you are trying to sew. If the material is to thin it may not be a backlash problem my Juki hates thin stuff. You may have better luck using V92 as a top thread and bobbin thread. A couple of photo's of your thread path would also help. kgg

What I would try in a small sample is backing off the bottom thread tension slightly first then if that didn't work increase the top thread tension slightly. I still think the #23 needle maybe creating a too small of a hole in the that particular leather. There might also be some thread related issues like thread consistency, size of thread spool (8oz vs 16 oz), brand name thread versus cheap china stuff, thread type (bonded nylon vs bonded nylon). The reason I mention thread is I am also seeing thread strand twisting and separation on some of the stitches. Which maybe a result of the distance from the top of the thread spool to the first guide in the thread spool stand being to small as it needs to be 2.5 times the height of the thread spool to help remove twisting of the thread or thread backlash or a bad spool of thread. kgg

I really pity a new person to the hobby trying to find a machine particularly when they see reviews on the web with titles like "the best leather sewing machines" and the machines are domestic fabric machines. kgg

Sadly, I haven't been able to find any independent comparison side-by-side reviews of the various industrial sewing machines whether they are brand name or clone. This is a real shame as most people really don't know the difference of one class of industrial machine from another, the difference between a domestic / domestic heavy duty from a industrial fabric or industrial leather machine, the various machines abilities or their short comings. The consumer is then left with few options of having too decipher specifications on their own and take a best guess stab at it which can be a costly, frustrating mistake or rely on less then stellar reviews. I think the more informed consumer at least asks here on this site for some guidance when wanting to purchase a machine (new or used) for their particular needs / wants. This form has a lot of individuals from around the globe that have a lifetime of hands on experience, many with different classes of machines manufactured by just about every company out here. kgg

Sorry to hear that you didn't get a good feeling particularly when you are wanting to buy an expensive machine. What are you planning on sewing? Have you thought of visiting a couple dealers in your area to see if they have something or considered whether maybe a 1341 class machine would suit your needs or even one of the one arm bandits. kgg

They dropped the price to $1750 and now the add has SOLD listed. Got a be something in the water down around Toronto. kgg

Poor review. kgg

Christmas madness in the greater Toronto area is here for sure. The perfect little stocking stuffer, a cute little traditional black Singer Featherweight 222 for sale for a Xmas price of $1950.00. www.kijiji.ca/v-hobbies-craft/city-of-toronto/singer-featherweight-222-sewing-machine/1597434189 kgg

Greases are better for leakage control and provide better seals against contaminants. Grease can remain in equipment longer and tolerate a variety of conditions. ... Oil is also better for extending the life of bearings, as oiled bearings can last twice as long as greased ones. Personally I wouldn't and don't use grease in any of my machines. Grease does a great job of sealing out contaminants from the teeth of the gears but doesn't provide the slick factor that synthetic oils provide. You could windup with pockets where the grease has been forced out and leaving the teeth of the gears dry but encapsulated in a bubble of grease. But then again I don't use sewing machine oil in any of my machines not even on the China Patcher. My experience is that my blend of synthetic oils makes gears run smoother as it creates a film between mating gear teeth which in effect reduces the load on gear teeth and hopefully increases their life. kgg

The things to consider before buying the Alder is the cost of the machine, cost of the replacement timing belt which I think is going to be closer to $100, cost to have it installed and the machine re-timed, cost to put a 120v servo motor on it so you can use it at a controllable speed verses getting a good used refurnished machine from a dealer. kgg

Your industrial upholstery class machines like the Juki 1541S can handle up to 3/8" thick or 9.5 mm. To regularly go beyond that you will need to move up into the 441 class machine. The price of a Juki TSC 441 in North America is north of $9000 cad. So a more reasonable cost option for the a 441 class machine are the clones like Cowboy or Cobra to name a couple in the $2500 cad to $3500 cad range. Another option may also be the one arm bandits like Cowboy Outlaw or the Tippmann Boss both around the $1500 US price range. To help with machine suggestions, what do you want to sew and with what size thread? Remember no one machine will do everything. Buy Once, Cry Once kgg

The Tinkers delight is delegated to the basement as I have a couple of more things I want to try before it makes it's out-the-door journey. What are you planning on sewing and what is your budget. I'm sure someone could offer suggestions as what maybe a good match for your needs/wants. kgg

What did you find out about the machine? kgg

Have you checked the top tension discs for wear? kgg

Looking at Lial website (en.lial.biz/thread-polyart-20-1500m) in their specs it lists the thread as #20 but lists it as Tex 154 which would be closer to a #15 (V207)thread rather then a #20 (V138) which may have to do with it being a looser polyester thread. kgg

My plan of attack is to use a metal lathe that way I can use either wood or metal for the burnisher. My main shaft on my burnisher / polisher is 3/4" that tappers down to a 5/8"-11 threaded section. So far me thoughts are: For a aluminum: Drilling a 17/32" hole almost to the end then drilling a 13/16 " hole so far down and then tapping the 17/32" section for a 5/8" - 11 bolt thread. Once that is done cut the grooves in the surface, drill and tap a grub screw in the 13/16" end. For wood: Round and mill the grooves into the wood to the correct diameters, drill a 11/16" hole completely from end to the other then drill a 1 5/8" hole so far down to accommodate a 5/8"nut and on the other end drill a 1 3/8" flat washer to butt up against the 3/4" shaft.

I couldn't find a email address or whether the burnisher was aluminum or steel. So me being me I called him, a really nice guy. He confirmed he made it out of aluminum as steel will turn the leather blue. kgg