kgg

I use the el cheapo binders on all my machines (flatbed or cylinder bed) as well.The only difference is I use the in line style you would typically use on flatbeds. Sometimes I use a swing away attachment, just depends on what I am binding. You just got to set them up properly to do the job. I just have a hard time paying the extra for a custom binder for my needs. Break / Fail replace for $20 Cad. In the photo's I am using a 38mm (1.5") raw edge binder with a swing away attachment in combination with a 13" horizontally mounted platter that has a centre load-bearing race. kgg

I agree that the quality of binding and thread can make all the difference to the final look. I like using American & Efird thread and bindings mostly nylon twill as I think a twill weave offers a little extra strength. Most definitely anytime you can reduce /eliminated an angle or stress/load the better and a horizontally mounted platter with a centre load-bearing race will reduce the amount of effort necessary to get the tape from the spool to under the needle. I like using standard inline flatbed binders even on my cylinder bed rather then 90 degree binders for three reasons. Cost, ease of setup and they put less stress/ load on the pressor foot / feet dog. kgg

Possible alternative sewing method would be to sew up close as you can to the thick section. I think you are using a swing away on the binder. With the needle fully embedded in the material raise the pressor foot up, swing the binder away from material, lower pressor foot and hand wheel over the hump, swing the binder back in place and continue sewing. kgg

On your regular flatbed binders if the exit isn't wide enough sometimes you can carefully pry the opening wider with a small screwdriver as well as prying the top side of the mouth edge more to the vertical position. I have done this on various sizes of binders using the screwdriver that is normally used for loosening the needle tightening screw and the even smaller one for adjusting the bobbin tension.

I like that. kgg

The Singer 29k60 also came motorized using what would be considered a domestic sewing machine motor similar to what was used on the old flatbed Singers. If you had a photo someone could offer other solutions for your setup. For reference checkout the topic "Motor Replacement for 29K60" back in August 2019 in the discussion there is a photo of the manual showing the motor setup. kgg

When you get your machine check it over very carefully for obvious signs of damage and missing parts. The first one I purchased off Amazon . ca was from YaeTool purchased for about $120 Cad ($95 US) delivered. When it arrived the the cylinder arm was completely snapped away from the body and was missing most of the small items like bobbins, nuts, bolts, etc. Cast iron does not like to be banged around. Glad I purchased it from Amazon and the return process was easy. It was then replaced with a machine from YaeTek (notice the similar name) same machine even down to the paint. Parts were there but the it took a fair bit of time to get the packing grime off and the machine setup to stitch. It is a true tinkers delight. Just my experience, kgg

Glad you got a machine. Read the manuals that should have come with your Juki before you start using the machine. Out of curiosity what was your deciding factor to purchase one over the other. kgg

Both machines are compound feed. I would take a sample of the thickest/toughest item you are planning on sewing along with you. Test both machines with the maximum thread size you planning on using. Compare the results / sound and feel of both machines. The Seiko is rated to take up to a #22 needle which is the minimum size needed for V138 thread when used for fabric / thin / soft materials or V92 in thicker materials. The Juki is rated to take up to a #24 needle which is the minimum size needed for V207 when used for fabric / thin / soft materials or V138 in thicker materials. The Juki will take V138 thread top and bobbin all day long. I have two Juki's a Juki 1181N walking foot for lighter / thinner materials and the Juki 1541S for the heavier items. That way I don't have to dumb down the 1541S. Depending on what your needs present/future are and money is not an issue I would choose Juki products every time for build quality and resale value. Buy Once, Cry Once. kgg

I have never seen any of those machines that were made out of aluminum, typically they are made out of cast iron. These little machines can and often times require a lot of cleaning and tinkering to get them to function. Will they sew? Yes, but the frustration level is often not worth the effort. They can get you out of a bind but once again they can be very frustrating. The fit and finish on these machines is to say the least poor at best. The amount of thread the bobbin can hold is very same less then a old domestic Singer. I do have one but it is mainly for tinkering with. If you just want functional for some items you maybe better off using copper rivets and burrs. (Drill/punch holes, insert rivet through put burr on, cut rivet shaft to right length with cutting pliers and use a hammer to flatten rivet shaft over the burr.) If you want to sew thick items sheaths/holsters and want to use arm power the one arm bandits from Cowboy (Outlaw), Tippman (Boss) or Weaver ( Master Tools Cub) would be much better options. You maybe able to get one on the used market. kgg

Thank you Uwe. It is a nice conversion method of achieving 90 degree synchronized binding. For us Canadians the cost converts to $ 372.32. kgg

What is the cost?? kgg

Do you mean as in Show Dog? kgg

Could you post a couple of photos of the thread path from the spool of thread to the needle through the tensioners. kgg

My understanding those models are similar to the 335 class of machine and use V69 thread. I would recheck the manual / check with the dealer again as the info I found is the needle size are for #16 and #18 which makes it able to take V69. The #22 is the bottom end of the V138 thread but for thick / sticky / tough materials you may have to go up to either a 23 or 24. I would look at class 341 / 1341 machines. kgg

If you search Amazon there are plenty that will fit the Juki DNU-1541S. Sample search of Amazon.ca for Double Fold Clean Finish Top & Bottom Binding Binder Attachment - 38mm (which is 3/4") for $16.00 Cad For the Cowboy 3200 you either have to buy an special attachment plate / foot / feed dog housing and 90 degree binders or get someone to make a plate so you can use the inexpensive binders. kgg

Nicely done. Something to consider about the English Bulldog is their pork barrel necks. They have a tendency / ability to slip out of normal collars which work great when they are alongside or ahead of you but if they decide to sit their butt down or backup chances are they are out of the collar in a blink with a quick flick/duck of the head. kgg

This link even though it is for a Juki LS-341 it may offer some insight. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/917750/Juki-Ls-341n.html?page=11#manual kgg

No matter what 3D printer you use ABS is either messy and/or smelly. Hate the stuff. I can see some get their nickers in a bit of a twist but I am old school. When I am asked where I am from I say "Newfoundland". Funny during the Meach Lake US/ Canada talks back in the 90's we were crossing back from the US to Canada and asked by the Canadian border guards where we were from. I replied "Newfoundland". Their reply "OH, 3 Americans, have a nice day." We wondered what Canada had now done to Newfoundland. kgg

Nice to see you getting into 3D printing. As far as design software two excellent platforms are Fusion 360 and Solid Works. Besides the quality of your 3D printer and consumable materials the slicing software will make or break your 3D print. I would try some free resin slicer software and do a print quality / speed comparison to see what works best for your machine and your needs. For my filament printers and designs I have found Ultimaker Cura to be excellant where as PrusaSlicer software to be lacking in comparison even through I have Prusa and Prusa hybrid (Bear Upgrade) printers. Kept us updated on how your resin printed stamps work out. Personally I like the filament printers but that largely has to with my personal wants and needs (printed part strength, size of print, choice of available filament from low cost/quality china stuff to excellent Canadian or American made, available printer upgrade / replacement parts cost and less steps to final prototype). Just like with sewing machines, no one machine does it all. kgg

All I can say is I am shocked at the price, glad I was sat down. Your prices are really high over there on the other side of the pond for used machines. I would hate to buy a new one. That price converted into Canadian dollars is about $2600. A used Juki LS-1341 / table /servo motor in Ontario goes for about $1500 CAD or £850.00. The downfall of the 246 would be it's maximum thread of V92 versus V138 of the Juki LS -341/1341 but the upside it is setup for binding. Depends I guess on what you need/want to sew. kgg

I use minimum V92 thread in lightly stressed locations but mostly just use V138 even for binding/edging. The V69 has a breaking strength of approximately 11 pounds and V92 is approximately 15 pounds where as V138 is approximately 22 pounds. My understanding is that V69 is the upper end of most domestic sewing machines and the lower end of industrial sewing machines for fabric sewing where stress / load /abrasion aren't a real problem. If the item is going to be exposed to a lot of outdoor use (UV exposure) or subjected to bleach I use bonded polyester thread otherwise bonded nylon. kgg

What size of thread are you planning on using? If I am not mistaken the Pfaff 335 is only good for V69 (Tkt 40) thread. I would look at a class Juki LS-341 or LS-1341 good to V138 (Tkt 20) top and bobbin as parts/ accessories for the Alder are probably going to be much more expensive then a Juki or a Juki clone. kgg

Replacing the clutch motor is the important step in being able to consistently control the stitching speed of your machine. I would try just replacing the clutch motor first with a servo motor (min. 550 watt) and if you find you need more torque or even slower stitching speed then add a good quality speed reducer. The only caution I could add is if you add a needle positioner before adding a speed reducer you my find depending on how much reduction you added it may not work properly. Some people really like the needle positioner while others not so much. Guess it depends on what you are sewing. Personally I don't use one. I have never really needed such items as a needle positioner or laser stitch line guide and think of those items as just something else that could go out of alignment. kgg

That really sucks, the cost to you and having a disappointed customer on the other end. If they have no way of tracking why do they even bother giving you a tracking number let alone adding insult to injury charging for insurance that isn't worth anything. I will be using DHL or the old fashion post office in the future for my packages. kgg