kgg

That is a wise idea. Bring your thickest sample along that you are planning on sewing and V138 thread, if you have some or have them setup the machine with V138 thread. The major tell tall signs of use are going to be: i) How smooth and polished the bare metal on the nose is. A machine with 30 hours of use should have crisp edges. ii) Look for groves worn into the thread guides that the top thread twists through. A machine with 30 hours of use should have no track marks. They should look almost brand new with freshly punched smooth round holes. iii) Ask them to tilt back the machine so you can see the timing belt and inside the base. Look for i) worn, cracked, frayed timing belt, ii) worn or damaged gears and iii) metal / rubber filings. A machine with 30 hours of use the timing belt a should appear to be new, the gears should appear to have nice crisp edges and there should only be minor amount of rubber / dirt inside. iv) Ask them to remove the front large plate cover and look for signs of wear and build up of dirt. v) Slide the bobbin case cover back and see if there is a buildup of thread anywhere. A machine with 30 hours of use should have no amount of different color thread anywhere. vi) The machine should sew a perfect stitch forward and in reverse. The reverse stitch should go back in the same holes as was made in the forward direction. vii) The machine should have no unusual noises (banging / clunking / vibrations). Shouldn't sound like a bucket of bolts banging around. Just some things to look for and let us know how you make out. kgg

They maybe in lockdown. kgg

The price seems reasonable. I would definitely consider it. kgg

The Juki LS-341 is basically an older model of the current the LS-1341 but is a good machine if it is in good condition. Like anything used you will to go it carefully. I only reason I would hesitate would be if it was used in an industrial setting. The greater the chance it is hammered to death and would require major repairs. Check for visible signs of wear such as deep groves in the top thread path guides. Ask the seller for detailed photo's like closeups of the needle area, thread guides and internal timing belt (maybe frayed and cracked). kgg

My take on things without knowing what the thickness you are trying to sewing: 1) A size 24 needle for T210 (V207) is probably good for softer or thinner material. 2) You may have to move to a size 25 needle to give your thread enough clearance in the material so it doesn't get slightly stuck in thicker heavier material. 3) If you are limited to a max needle size of 24 then you are probably limited to T135 (V138 ) in thicker heavier material. 4) A 135 X 17 needle is meant for fabric so you should change to a 135 X 16 needle for leather and retry. 5) You should check with Techsew as whether the bobbin is capable of taking T210 (V207) particularly when used with T210 (V207) on the top , if not you may have to use T210 (V207) on top and T135 (V138) in the bobbin 6) You may have to ease back on the presser foot tension slightly or change the feet to reduce the blemishes 7) Try a different spool of thread. Sometimes problems can be related to poorer quality thread particularly the smaller 8 oz spools from China. If that doesn't work buy some good quality thread from a company like American & Efird Knowing how much thread you have left just comes from experience. What I find works for me is loading enough bobbins for a project and putting a freshly loaded bobbin in before starting a project. Also it eliminates the thread in the bobbin from developing a "coil" memory from being left to long on the bobbin before being used. Totally agree. Just some considerations, kgg

If I am not mistaken the thread you are using is V270 (Tkt 10) T277 which requires a #25 US sized needle which would be a # 200 metric. The larger needle gives you extra thread head space so it doesn't catch. For tough material you may have to go up to a #26 needle (#220). Also check your top thread path from the spool to the eye of the needle and top tension. kgg

This video should solve your problem. kgg

Yep, expect to pay between $4000 to $5000 for new Juki LS-1341. The used market probably around half the price of a new Juki. Where as a new clone is about half or less the price of a new Juki. kgg

If I am not mistaken, the Juki 246, Pfaff 335 and the Alder 69-373 are rated for V92 max. To get to the V138 rated thread you would need to go to a 1341 class machine like the Juki LS-341 or LS-1341 which is made in Japan while the Alders are made in Germany and the Pfaff's now being made in China. Parts/accessories for Alder and Pfaff tend to be much more expensive then Juki. kgg

Thanks Constabulary, all my own designs and the best part they work. I just could not/ would not pay the $200 for a 90 degree binder setup and having to buy new binders in the various sizes I use. All the attachments I have for the flatbeds are now inter-changeable with the cylinder bed so it was cost effective way around the problem. Yes it is a right angle binder and the tape gets feed / weaved along the metal wire loops into the binder body with the tape exiting the other side and making the sharp 90 degree turn at the other end where the fabric is feed between the loop that is created. What was the approximate cost of the binder from Chris? kgg

I use the el cheapo binders on all my machines (flatbed or cylinder bed) as well.The only difference is I use the in line style you would typically use on flatbeds. Sometimes I use a swing away attachment, just depends on what I am binding. You just got to set them up properly to do the job. I just have a hard time paying the extra for a custom binder for my needs. Break / Fail replace for $20 Cad. In the photo's I am using a 38mm (1.5") raw edge binder with a swing away attachment in combination with a 13" horizontally mounted platter that has a centre load-bearing race. kgg

I agree that the quality of binding and thread can make all the difference to the final look. I like using American & Efird thread and bindings mostly nylon twill as I think a twill weave offers a little extra strength. Most definitely anytime you can reduce /eliminated an angle or stress/load the better and a horizontally mounted platter with a centre load-bearing race will reduce the amount of effort necessary to get the tape from the spool to under the needle. I like using standard inline flatbed binders even on my cylinder bed rather then 90 degree binders for three reasons. Cost, ease of setup and they put less stress/ load on the pressor foot / feet dog. kgg

Possible alternative sewing method would be to sew up close as you can to the thick section. I think you are using a swing away on the binder. With the needle fully embedded in the material raise the pressor foot up, swing the binder away from material, lower pressor foot and hand wheel over the hump, swing the binder back in place and continue sewing. kgg

On your regular flatbed binders if the exit isn't wide enough sometimes you can carefully pry the opening wider with a small screwdriver as well as prying the top side of the mouth edge more to the vertical position. I have done this on various sizes of binders using the screwdriver that is normally used for loosening the needle tightening screw and the even smaller one for adjusting the bobbin tension.

I like that. kgg

The Singer 29k60 also came motorized using what would be considered a domestic sewing machine motor similar to what was used on the old flatbed Singers. If you had a photo someone could offer other solutions for your setup. For reference checkout the topic "Motor Replacement for 29K60" back in August 2019 in the discussion there is a photo of the manual showing the motor setup. kgg

When you get your machine check it over very carefully for obvious signs of damage and missing parts. The first one I purchased off Amazon . ca was from YaeTool purchased for about $120 Cad ($95 US) delivered. When it arrived the the cylinder arm was completely snapped away from the body and was missing most of the small items like bobbins, nuts, bolts, etc. Cast iron does not like to be banged around. Glad I purchased it from Amazon and the return process was easy. It was then replaced with a machine from YaeTek (notice the similar name) same machine even down to the paint. Parts were there but the it took a fair bit of time to get the packing grime off and the machine setup to stitch. It is a true tinkers delight. Just my experience, kgg

Glad you got a machine. Read the manuals that should have come with your Juki before you start using the machine. Out of curiosity what was your deciding factor to purchase one over the other. kgg

Both machines are compound feed. I would take a sample of the thickest/toughest item you are planning on sewing along with you. Test both machines with the maximum thread size you planning on using. Compare the results / sound and feel of both machines. The Seiko is rated to take up to a #22 needle which is the minimum size needed for V138 thread when used for fabric / thin / soft materials or V92 in thicker materials. The Juki is rated to take up to a #24 needle which is the minimum size needed for V207 when used for fabric / thin / soft materials or V138 in thicker materials. The Juki will take V138 thread top and bobbin all day long. I have two Juki's a Juki 1181N walking foot for lighter / thinner materials and the Juki 1541S for the heavier items. That way I don't have to dumb down the 1541S. Depending on what your needs present/future are and money is not an issue I would choose Juki products every time for build quality and resale value. Buy Once, Cry Once. kgg

I have never seen any of those machines that were made out of aluminum, typically they are made out of cast iron. These little machines can and often times require a lot of cleaning and tinkering to get them to function. Will they sew? Yes, but the frustration level is often not worth the effort. They can get you out of a bind but once again they can be very frustrating. The fit and finish on these machines is to say the least poor at best. The amount of thread the bobbin can hold is very same less then a old domestic Singer. I do have one but it is mainly for tinkering with. If you just want functional for some items you maybe better off using copper rivets and burrs. (Drill/punch holes, insert rivet through put burr on, cut rivet shaft to right length with cutting pliers and use a hammer to flatten rivet shaft over the burr.) If you want to sew thick items sheaths/holsters and want to use arm power the one arm bandits from Cowboy (Outlaw), Tippman (Boss) or Weaver ( Master Tools Cub) would be much better options. You maybe able to get one on the used market. kgg

Thank you Uwe. It is a nice conversion method of achieving 90 degree synchronized binding. For us Canadians the cost converts to $ 372.32. kgg

What is the cost?? kgg

Do you mean as in Show Dog? kgg

Could you post a couple of photos of the thread path from the spool of thread to the needle through the tensioners. kgg

My understanding those models are similar to the 335 class of machine and use V69 thread. I would recheck the manual / check with the dealer again as the info I found is the needle size are for #16 and #18 which makes it able to take V69. The #22 is the bottom end of the V138 thread but for thick / sticky / tough materials you may have to go up to either a 23 or 24. I would look at class 341 / 1341 machines. kgg