kgg

I agree but doesn't Juki 341: 1. usually have the nameplate rivet to the machine which means two holes should be present where the weird square intention is. 2. doesn't look like the normal Juki latch connecting the base to the sewing machine 3. the metal seems to be cut back further towards the main body on the bottom of the cylinder. I would investigate further as if I remember someone in France had a problem with a Pfaff branded machine that wasn't. kgg

I agree. Since this is going to be a expensive investment go visit dealers with your stuff in hand and sew with the size / type thread you want to use. No one machine is going to do both ends of the sewing / thickness spectrum. I think the machine that was recommended is going to tear the hell out of the thin stuff since your requirement is only for appearance and not structure. There are videos of the difference between the Juki 8700 vs Juki 1181 vs Juki 1541 vs Juki 1508 using the same material and how the 1541 and 1508 destroy the same thin material. The object is to use the right machine with the right needle system for the job otherwise it is like using a sledge hammer to hammer in a finishing nail. Also getting the stitch length perfect every time maybe a chore for awhile since it has the reverse and stitch length on the same lever. Remember buy once, cry once.

I agree with dikman. Handwheel doesn't appear to be wobbling, I think it is the needle positioning unit either not properly centred on the machines main shaft or a fault in the positioning attachment unit itself. kgg

I am very impressed and from what I can gather a USA product. It looks like it is begging for a nice slow speed servo. This one seems to be a game changer for people needing a heavy duty machine. I hope this one catches on. kgg

I would tend to be cautious, maybe bordering on a little a healthy paranoia and use some form of disinfection until a reliable source can confirm the life expectancy of this virus on all types of surfaces. All of us remember the SARS outbreak in Ontario.

Have you tried to smooth out the aggressiveness of the presser foot on your patcher? Also what thread are you thinking about using? Wouldn't a walking foot be better rather then a jump foot like whats on your patcher? Wouldn't a Singer 7-33 class machine be more suited to what you would be looking for then the J&R? kgg

I would suggest buying a sheet of HDPE in 3/8 or 1/2" thickness. Up hear HDPE is commonly know a puck board as it is used in lining the side walls of hockey arenas. A 4'x 8' sheet then can be cut easily with a jig saw or table saw to the sizes / shape you need and a sheet should cost about $150 to $200 CA. kgg

I don't think it will. My reasoning: 1. The Barracuda is only rating for max V138 thread if tweaked by Reliable, which shouldn't be that hard to do yourself. If I am not mistaken for leather holsters you need V207 thread size or better. 2. As the machine comes with a domestic sewing machine motor it isn't going to have either the torque or speed control for heavy punching without what is called the Monster wheel. Keeping a good speed control with the little foot pedal of the domestic sewing machine motor is going to be a challenge. Years ago a local upholster drop a Barracuda in a standard table and put a servo on it with very good success. Remind you of the Tandy machine. 3. Also a drawback of the portable machines is getting stitch consistency with thicker materials. I have pushed the Barracuda to above it's limits by stuffing as much material as possible under the presser foot probably closer to 1/2 " by lifting the presser foot up and then down on top of a combination of material but it wasn't pretty. 4. The presser feet and feed dog are typically very aggressive but that can be overcomed otherwise it will leave imprints in the leather. My conclusion is that for holsters it is the wrong machine as will be any of the portable walking foot sewing machines. kgg

How large do you need the template to be? kgg

As a suggestion since we are all built differently ( short legs, short arms and vise versa ) as well with age some of us get a little thicker around the middle, why not stand in front of a full length mirror. Using a template or old holster see what position fits your gun best, feels most comfortable and go from there. You may fine a limited holster swivel maybe best. kgg

I am sure someone from that area can guide you as what price can be expected to be paid for a Singer 29k-58. Prices can be all over the place from a couple of hundred to plus $1000. kgg

A lot is going to depend on what part of the world your in. kgg

The way I see the specs it is rated for V33 to V69 yet it is capable of accepting up to a size 21 needle which is good for V92. To use V92 thread according to specs you need to go up to a DSC-246. kgg

The photo highlighting the thread path. It appears that you have the top thread enter the upright pin in the bottom hole then go up and exit the top hole. Should be the other way around. The top thread then enters the three hole thread guide. You have threaded the top thread in a straight line through each of the holes before exiting to go to the top tensioner discs. The top thread should enter the first hole from the top (correct) then exit the hole and before entering the top of the next hole loop over the outside edge. It is hard to see from the photo's if you have the top thread properly in the lower tensioner. When you thread through the lower tensioner the thread must click behind the little pin (finger) to whole the top thread so it doesn't flop out as the thread arm moves up and down as you sew. The pin (finger) can be seen in the last photo setting in the vertical slot on the left of the tensioner aligned with the top thread exiting the tensioner. Threading through all the guide holes from the thread spool can put to much top tension on the top thread. The number of holes you thread through is going to depend on the thread size, material thickness and type of material. Getting it right my take a bit of experimenting. Also from your photo's, it appears that you are using 8 oz spools of thread. Some people have experienced problems with this size of thread spool particularly cheaper black bonded nylon thread. Make sure the thread is not going under your spool and getting caught. kgg

Taiwan is part of China with only 7 or 8 countries in the world recognizing it as independent. Neither Canada nor USA do. kgg

Welcome to Canada, and Ontario. Lots of brand name dealers and clone dealers down that end of Ontario. kgg

Which part of the country are you moving to? kgg

I would kept the good machines and sell the other then buy a new or good used replacement for the other. As far as machines go there are many suppliers of Chinese clones available just depends on where in Canada you are moving to. The highest access / selection / accessories to machines for brand names like Juki, Alder would probably be Ontario. As far as clones go, dealers / resellers are a dime a dozen so buy one from a local seller in the area you are going to setup for support / parts/ repairs. kgg

The only Juki that I know of being still made in Japan is the 1541S all the rest are sadly being made in China. But that is another discussion. kgg

From the nameplate the machine is from Japan not China. kgg

I didn't see a guide in the photos what style? If possible a picture would be nice. kgg

That is good price info for anyone looking to purchase a 1341/341 class clone gives a nice comparison. To break the price down it would have been about $2350 CA plus 13 percent tax. Don't you just love taxes. So for our US people on the list it would be about $1790 US.

As a side note what was the approximate cost of the machine as I am sure others who are thinking about buying that type of machine would like to know a ball park number. kgg

I think your present setup should work fine but think it could be improved for performance and appearance. Having a knee lift is not uncommon nor is a foot pedal activated lift. If I am not mistaken the Juki 341 and 1341 both use a cable connection to the presser foot lift lever while I have seen chain and solid round metal rods also used. The object of any configuration is to pull down on the presser foot lever to lift the presser foot up to it's highest point. The less resistance to the movement of the lever the better. Personally I think the pivot bolt connection on most machines that use your type of lift lever and pivot bolt connection could be greatly improved by incorporating a flat round bearing seated in the lever at the pivot point. That way there would be less resistance / rubbing between the pivot bolt and the lift lever. In my opinion it's just poor engineering to save the cost of a proper bearing, about a cent for the manufacturer. kgg

As an additional suggestion I would try using only one point of connection of the plastic coated wire to the presser foot lift lever to remove the need for twisting of the wire, improve / reduce lifting pressure caused by the rubbing of the twisted wire as it moves through the table and improve the appearance / performance. To do this I would remove the wire bolt connector closest to the needle on the presser foot lift lever and reuse it at the other end of the wire too form a smaller tighter loop around the small hook-like rod at the knee lift connecting rod just under the hole for the wire in the table while also changing the angle and length of the small hook on the knee lift shaft. That should help with getting the wire to travel more in the centre of the hole in the table. kgg