BondoBobCustomSaddles

Al Stohlman's book on leatherworking tools has the how to in it. Not hard to do. Best advice get a good one from the start and it will not require much sharpening to begin with. If you can't see yourself getting a really good one for the price like one from Knipschnider, check in with Bruce Johnson. He has zillions of good used ones to fit any hand, at reasonable prices. Give him a call and he will help you pick one out, great guy to do business with, hell he even is a great guy to be friends with, I've only talked to him on the phone, but; puts you right at ease as if you grew up knowing him. Bob.

Since on some parts of saddles I case them prior to fitting them to the saddle, such as the fork cover and the seat leather, skirts and so on, however; once it is fitted it then needs to dry to fully "form", After that I usually make and fit all the pieces as if it were not going to be tooled. Once done is when I then make the borders and outlines for tooling so they all flow together from piece to piece. In the case of the fork cover for instance it usually has been dry for quite some time before I am ready to tool. Since I did case it well before I started to form it to the fork, I simply wet it good with a spray/mister, let it get to the range of dryness/wetness I like for tooling and have at it. If I understand it correctly, casing allows the fibers in the leather to align, giving a more consistent texture to the leather. In my opinion, once cased properly, it remains cased and rewetting is just a way of getting it to the level you like for tooling. Now that is my opinion, and like belly buttons , we all have one. This is how I do it, and what works for me. Hope that helps. Besides I couldn't fit a whole damn saddle in the fridge anyway!! If I did, my wife would kick my a## ! Bob

Montana Silversmiths provides a large selection as long as what you are looking for is not custom designed. If custom designed, there are quite a few silversmiths out there on the internet. You can purchase Montana's stuff from Weaver Leather along with some really nice polished stainless stuff. Bob

If I were hell bent on hiding the stitches, I would use the "hidden stitch" method that Al exhibits in his directions on how to do a hidden stitch on a cantle binding in book #2 of his encyclopedia of saddle making. Bob

Nothing like getting bit by the "leather bug". Your work is nice and will serve you well. Enjoy the journey. Lots of good folks here that will help you along the way. By the way, don't worry about you grasp of the English language, lots of us here speak it as a first language and don't do such a good job at it! Bob

I agree with Bruce, nice one, and being able to use it will only make it a more important heirloom perhaps the day will come when it get's passed down another generation. Bob

Nice job Ferg. I have often thought bout making one for myself, but; the one on my stitcher works , so I guess some day I'll get around to it. If I do, I will likely use yours as a guide. Bob

I agree pretty much with Toot. Regardless of whether it is flat plate or inskirt, I like to let the rigging be over the fork cover, but; under the seat jockey and blended so that the bulge doesn't present itself. That said, I don't even have the rigging ring, or plate or D marked in the pattern. I set that after I have the rigging plates made and tacked in place giving me the "vision" I like. Then I mark and set the rigging Ds where they should go for a particular saddle. Since all of the saddles I make are made for specific horses, rather than using full, 7/8s., 3/4s and so on, I measure where it belongs on that horse and that's where it goes. I so check so that I can at least tell the owner after done, what position it is, for future reference. Bob

Ok I am going to try again. I just zipped it all into a 1 file. First time I have done that so here goes! Bob Well that didn't work. I'll send a note to Joanna see if she can help.

Ok, so I found the time today to get at this. I am going to try to attach this as a folder with all the info I have on the subject in it. About 24 pages, so I hope I can do it. You will find there are two notes in the file from both Al and Bob Pleyton. Between them you should have a good grasp of how to so it. Bob is the one that sent me the info from Robin Yates and John Hopper. Hope this will get you along the path pardner. Bob Well, it won't let me do it that way so I am going to have to find another way to get them uploaded. At any rate here are the pages from Al. They will get you going pretty good. IMG.pdf IMG_0001.pdf

Rope, I have some hand written pages from Al Stohlman on how to accomplish a rolled rope edge. I'll dig them out and copy them and post them here. It won't till Monday though. Bob

Dwight is spot on. When it does happen to me, I use Laquer thinner to rub it off. As for not getting it on in the first place, I usually make the belt, or whatever, oversize by about 1/8", then after stitching, I trim off the excess, and use the sander. Gives you a nice, clean , edge to burnish. Bob

What is the gun? Oh and by the way, nice job. Well done, I am sure the owner is pleased. Bob

I agree with NV with respect to Dip Dying black. With black, if you can't find a process of dying without it rubbing off, going back to "roon" is not the worst thing. Remember, Roon does not dye the leather, it changes the chemical composition of the tannins and does not rub off. Depending on what I am doing, I us it now and then. Especially on belts. Bob

:head_hurts_kr:It only took me one hit to get the message! Bob

Nicely done Josh! I like the use of both geometric stamps and tooling to compliment each other. Pleasing to look at. Once again, nicely done!!! Bob

Not only is Bob Park one of the most talented leather artists out there, he has found a way to explain in detail how to put your ideas on leather and make them stand out. I highly recommend his book. Bob

Like Art, I too have one sitting on the shelf that never gets used because it doesn't work worth a tinkers damn. Unlike Art, I am older and learned quicker, so I only have one!!! You don't have to hit me in the head with a 2X4 to get me to learn!!!! Bob

I have and use a Knipper. Love it, it is the most used tool I own. As for the draw blade that is a matter of your own preference. Personally, I hold my knife in more than one way and angle, so for me it is just another place to cut myself. I also find when I am cutting around corners and curves in the pattern, when the curve gets tight or intricate, I will use my right hand on the handle to guide and push slightly, and my left hand flat on the piece with my left thumb against the back of the blade giving it the impetus to inch slowly so I don't over run the cut. There for sure I would be cutting my thumb off, not a good thing!!! I still use them! Bob

Welcome to the forum, you will find all kinds of help from really good artisans here. One tip, someone on here gave a while ago, (it might have been Art of Wiz) when stitching through bio-thane use a needle that is 2 or 3 sizes larger than what you use for regular leather. The bio-thane has a tendency to close around the top thread and grip it at the bottom of the travel and cause a really ugly mess on the bottom, even with high tension on top thread. Bob

I ask, or better yet, measure them my self, from center of stomach all the way around through the belt loops back to the center point. Then I take into consideration what buckle I will use. I never cut final length till the belt is basically done tooling and buckle fold, lining glued on and ready to stain and stitch. then I set the length from the buckle hook, or front bar to the center of the holes. I usually use 7 holes so number 4. Not had a problem doing it that way. Bob

It's probably that Blackhawk Curse! Bob

D, all you have to do is do it once yourself and you will see why. I don't belong to the ASMA, however; @ $150 for materials (sheep skin, glue, thread needles ect.), $50 fixed overhead (Electricity, Lights, rent of space, Heat/cooling of space,use of tools and equipment ect.) and @ $50/hr for labor pretty much says it all. By the way, it takes experience to do a good job in 4 hrs. Bob

Joe, you are close to Toledo, give Bob a call at Toledo industrial sewing machines. Number is in the suppliers section. I am sure he can help you. Go Wings! Bob

Really nice! You have achieved the level most strive for. Professional. Bob