nylonRigging

It a ( CSM3000 ) , and it has a 4-button control panel . The package the OP posted looks exact to the Consew I have . .

Ahhhh Hey....You sure you don't want me to make and send you a Video of the motor banging out 5 stitches on power-up ? .... LOL . Consew should hire you for a Tech. Rep. for customer problems, because as of right now your sitting a plateau above there hired Staff for knowledge and customer service . The Consew service factory phone # , offered absolutely squat for my needs . Is that ( Advanced Signal ) something that I can 'code' punch-in myself on the reader control board ?, like offered with the speed, and motor direction of turn code . I did not want, and purposely bought the Consew w/out position sensor, It was sold to me without and was told not coming with PS . I can pull it off the shelf and out of the box . power it up to punch-in a code if you know of of one ? . If I could get rid of that glitch i will use it for another build, or a back-up motor . .

ya just a rebranded Consew . I bought one and mounted it to a heavy walk foot machine, ( draws 6 amp ) It a strong puncher on the slow starting stitch . smooth and strong on the faster RMP also . nice power for the money , BUT --> the one I bought has a factory glitch with it from 1st day I set it up . ( every time ) When you turn-ON power and touch the pedal, It will start sewing without stopping ' 5 Stitches ' from day 1 . I called Consew and asked them about the problem day after I set it up and ran it, but all the Consew guy told me was to make a video of it sewing the 5-stitches and send it to them . They never even tried to address my problem with the new motor .. I Not in the business of making videos , I sew . I will Never Buy Another . .

What .Wizcrafts. is all saying .... and Dude I would buy that in a heartbeat because I dont mind little projects . it does look 'somewhat' similar design to my heavy 146RB . but it looks 'even more heavier duty' in horizontal shaft size and linkage from the Pic's you gave . It looks Clean, and If it rolling and stitching ( Get It ) for tag/300-$ . you also saying less-$ price like 150-$ ? ..that a steal . If they will take less-$ than 300-$ , then it all gravy after that . You can take your time and research and X-reference all the usual parts that normal wear . If . . ( Head Only ) GET THE HINGES IF THERE THERE . but easy to order off ebay or amazon if not . you setting up a table for it, not that hard to do . Probably uses common knee-lift linkage for raising presser foot . And a oil drip-pan easy to make or buy . I would bet a weeks pay that the table cut-out is common also . .edit add:.. reason it probably looks clean as it does for it's age, is that is looks to be set-up for slow turning RPM and heavier thick work . It probably still really solid and not sloppy . Get It .

Not sure if it a totally resembles Consew design ? . Price tag say's ( 300-$ for Head ) . If that Head is operating and laying down nice stitches, (if were me) I would not hesitate a second to grab it, would be an easy table set-up project. Pic. Feet and Dogs 'are probably' look pretty common . What size needle ? and what does it use for a Bobbin Assembly ? . the Backside of the machine pic. horizontal shaft and linkage looks hell stout, and that huge hand wheel is a lot of inertia by weight when it gets rolling, so looks setup for punching slower RPM . .

- Getting 6-ft.+ of thread routing from the Cone to the Needle is easy . 'Increase Distance' of the thread routing travel, will let thread relax more, on it way threw it's path, before it gets to the Needle . ( the Std. ) industrial thread tree sold that screws to your machine top, is all the same design . There just a 2-piece of 'short' , O.D. 5/8th" Pipe, with a clamp-coupling in middle . Simple fix . just remove the top section of Pipe on the Thread Stand . Then replace it with a piece of 5/8th" pipe that is ' LONG ' . ( rise the Cones up ) and the ( top thread arm to the top ) , Above/away from clutter of machine area, with also gaining the distance for thread distance it routed . I run 8 machines, and I started a couple years ago getting the thread Cones above and away from all the work done at the machines . It not hard after you do a couple the rest of the tread tree stands goes pretty quick for extending UPward . The Pipe used is common and inexpensive and found any hardware . It is just Copper water pipe usually sold in 10-Ft. sticks at any Hardware store . - - ( in pic. below ) . There is also arm extensions that mount to the Thread Stands . That you can get to Guide\Route your Thread to the 1st Thread-post of you machine . I have a couple of them but wish I had more of them . they look like this , and are clean effective routing arm to hang-off the Thread tree's . ( if ever find let me know ) as I could use more of them . You will find every machine is going to be a little different on it's needs for thread routing, like double-needle, or single-needle, or your heavy thread-cord machines . You get more distance and with that fact, basically you want to keep it all orderly and going threw it's eyelets to the Sew machines 1st thread-post , and also route down to the machines Bobbin winder . -

For helping get the thread relaxed when using thread with higher memory and curl coming off the Cones . I think most people are thinking way to small for the length of travel of there thread, from the Cone to the eye of the needle . On my machine thread tree's . For the length of thread travel, From the Cones to the Needle . I average more than 6 Ft.+ of travel length in it's routing . I am a true believer in this, and I don't get these problems since I just expanded on the Thread Stands and gave ample free-range for the Threads to relax some along it's travels to the eye . .

ya .. The old ( YU model ) is Mitsu.walkfoot ...' I think ? ' the DU models were Needle-Feed ... Mitsubishi made a boat load of All-similar looking heads back then . also Those Pic's posted, looks just like the exact cast Body style of the 80's era Mitsubishi DB models ( bottom feeds ) with it's Body shape and color, stitch length knob and narrow black reverse lever and hand wheel . I still have an old DB-170, with parts galore still able to x-reference . .

Looks like the YU-360 mdl. was discontinued around 87, but machine new-old stock probably sold well into the early 90's . ( If the price is good ? ) with machine clean and running good . Take some cordura and webbing over there and run the machine to check it out . Jap. Mitsubishi's were put together solid back then . ALSO .. ( i sure there are ) there has to be parts/accessories for it that will fit the YU model . but you need to do work in finding the copy/clone models that resemble that design, and Feet , Dogs , needle plates , Bobbins..etc , are also shared across the board on many machines . .

- ya i hear ya on the new generic BCL's and really no reason not to keep it working in the bell . The new BCL part sells really cheap-$ and will bring new life to your 29-4 stitch length . ( The new-sold 'generic' BCL's ) , that will 'Not' just Drop-in to a 29-4 and work .. Now that I figured out what to remove/grind resurface on the 1st one I bought . I could could modify another one a lot easy and faster . It really not that hard . I surprised a lot more people not doing it . On those aftermarket china BCL's . all you need is a couple hours with a small Vice , Dremel , File and a magnifying loop to do a good job to getting it to fit-in and running good on your old machine . thanks ... for the ( bent angle Pic. ) , the original BCL that I took out still looks and sits at straight angle . So I will get my buddy to braze and I will resurface . .

The aftermarket part is working satisfactory (after working it over) and nothing to really bitch about . But ya, just think it the right thing to do is keep it all original #'s parts because of the age and condition . I am into it now for a lot of my time on the head and also put a couple hundred+$ into stripping Treadle and powdercoat . It is handy machine but No Doubt it not practical with time and energy put into it to get it respectable to sit in my sew room . really it will sit with a cover over it more than it will ever be used sewing . .

wow .. 28 of them to do. that's a lot of listening to that Dremel screaming in your ear .. LOL . . I called one of buddies who lives about an hour from me and he is pretty good and current with welding small items, and I pretty good with a Dremel. so I should be GTG and get it done pretty easy . .

I really want to get it done good . The old factory parts had a good hard surface tempering to last, so that was my concern about Brazing . sounds like Brazing might work OK also if it hard enough surface and bond to last . Welding Rod and Wire can be had in different hardness, but laying down a tiny clean precision bead is where i need to find a real craftsman . the area to build-on is small and no place to be practicing skills. -

hey as Metal and welding not my forte, 'Question' ? , Have you, or anyone you know ? . Welded a Bead to the surface on the ( both top and bottom side ) , of ( worn/flattened ) , radius tip of the Bell crank Lever ? . To then just resurface back to Spec. roundness again . I bought an aftermarket Bell feed Lever replacement part . I got it all working and getting a solid 6-SPI threw 5-stack of 1000 den. nylon . And that not bad for a 105 year old 29-4 . The 'generic' aftermarket Bell Lever that is sold , ( did need some resurfacing on the outside of Round Loop ) at bottom of the forks , as the loops wall thickness was bigger than old factory part, to get it to 'rock back and forth' and align correct . Also was needed for the 2 factory mount screws, to pass-by outside wall of the loop to remount it . I got the aftermarket part functioning great in the machine , BUT ... I Really want to keep and replace back, the original 'factory #'s part ' Bell Lever back into the old 29 again if possible . So if I can get an opinion as to weld bead to the old metal part, that would be great . .....thanks - -

Old, Vs Very old ...LOL . . my old 1914 29-4 G code, has '1887' Patent dated stamped on the cast iron stand . Newer machines are where it's at for sewing everyday . But The cool factor of having and keeping these old patch machines together, alive and stitching is priceless . .

- Thank You . these two Pic's. saved me and ( you cant see me do it ) , but after a couple hours of mumbling cursing and greasy fingers , I am tipping a single malt in a chilled Waterford with also giving you a salute . Tonight I had the bottom cover off gear drive bars and machine slipped off my blocks when tipped back . Drive bar fell out as the Hand wheel turned and gear timing went out in relation to needle stroke . To say the least, it was a Large PIA . But these Pic's I found helped bigtime . .

Cool you got the bigboy 16" arm . you will like it . I got a 16" longarm flatbed single needle and all that extra room is nice sometimes . Just a HeadsUp .. You got to carry it up any stairs when you get home ?? ...LOL . . That Pro2000 16" head , is going to a lot heavier than you think when you put your back into it to pick it up and carry to your truck . .

All the 441 import cylinder arms sold in US are pretty competitive priced . I would go with what is closer for pick-up or delivery . Your down in California.on your profile, so why not go with Artisan Toro down in Cal. ? . and there ( 3200 mdl.) with ( ped 500 ) . Same specs. as the cowboy and Cobra . But It has 12"inch Work arm and on-board bobbin wind . looks like it's 2420-$ on the Artisan website . Artisan sews good and they answer there phone, stand behind what they sell similar like cowboy and cobra sales . .edit add .. you live close to Sacramento/San fransico area, pretty big population so must be a lot of used sew machines . Can you find Used 441 clone down there ? if worried about funds . .

( thoughts asked ) .. My thought guess ? , polyamide 'might be' very similar feel to an para-Aramid thread/cord ( kevlar , nomex..etc.) . Aramid thread are pretty tough abrasion, UV resistant, but the Aramid threads ( if polyamide similar ? ) , Aramid ( i have couple rolls ) feel pretty rough abrasive texture . Only way you will know for sure you can use it, is get 1 roll and see how it runs in your machines . . I just thinking .. ( Thread Tension ) and how nice smooth bonded thread flows and tensions so much better than stiffer and rough threads .

ya, the aftermarket 441 foot are sold cheap on-line . Dremel , file and grinder all you need . just make sure when shaping feet for any machine that you have a cold water cooling bowl there to quench and keep the Temp. down as you go . The metal on the aftermarket feet sold is actually pretty hard . R-side cut-off, shortened and narrowed some . . 'middle' , Trimmed short, with feet narrowed . . and there is a full size Foot to show stock length and width . .

LOL... because rest of the world not sewing leather, it the most widely used foot for 'heavy' synthetic and natural fiber/weave materials . It also great Foot to buy several of, to grind , cut and shape for specific jobs . .

- You got to remember that a majority of people that are learning to sew, or that do sew with machines, don't have acquired enough machine mechanics knowledge, to feel confident enough to order a machine on-line, sight unseen from China and then drive over to a trucking delivery hub pick it up, pull a machine out of a crate and put time in for set-up and timing . Also, The majority of people want to just slide a sew machine into a station, plug it into the wall, and go to work . You are charged a Fee-$ for the privilege to just ' Plug & Play ' . You Can't fault the ' Middle Man Dealer ' . They are offering running a ' legitimate service ' . ' post sales Customer Service ' . Retail Mark-up-$$ , it is a business service and You pay several hundred dollars more for it . .

another big thanks... It is now in parts file on the Desktop . .

Good for you... If owner has a Tech. put a timing/tune to it and gives it all a check-over and a thumbs-up ( and it's stitching great ) . then ( 600-$ ) fair asking price . call the Tech. he used and ask him If .." the machine Head and Table looks clean and GTG ". and with updated 750w servo drive . the 112, should run for years working for you, with little upkeep on your end . .

Servo Motor 'usually' has a Fuse-Cap on backside, it marked 'fuse' and you just un-screw and look/replace if needed . Main Fuse ( at machine ON / OFF Switch ) , also pull side-cover screw off your main switch cover and remove, and look inside ON/OFF switch , and look to see if all wires are in there connection screws . Machine Not firing up . it most likely something real simple and easy right up front . also ( UNPLUG ) before digging around in your ON/Off switch . .