chuck123wapati

The wife was on Fakebook the other day and saw a local ad from a fellow leather worker posting some of his wares, an elderly lady asked if he could make a Yahtzee dice cup. The answer was simply no with not even a sorry but added. So being the kind heart she is offered my services lol. After talking to the lady and getting the info, what she could remember, the next day she wrote back and said said she just couldn't afford one, I didn't quote a price. She wanted to replace one her late husband had bought at the local penitentiary and together they had worn it out. He was an officer there and she is 89 years young. It took me about a full hour to talk her into taking the cup for no charge finally saying i would use only scraps to make it and it would provide me some good practice which it did. PS i still hate lacing lol and my tooling stinks. 10 oz canyon tan with black lacing pig suede liner.

I've used snake skin but never on a bend for that reason. I would rethink your design and save the problems.

i would pre-form the bend before gluing. Did you put a finish on it before bending it? I have seen leather break also due to some of the finishes if its applied before the bend is formed.

I don't know if its a4 but its A OK

Nice work indeed!

if you want to save it and don't have a good knowledge of this type of work or the tools take it to a machinist. They will do what is needed to get it off and cleaned up for you. and or make you a new shoulder bolt. your going to need heat oil and a hammer and punch and vice at the least. Don't try and twist on it with pliers or the brass will be ruined it already appears to be marred but repairable.

it still looks great will last a very long lifetime i'm sure.

the bolt should have a shoulder you can see its thicker on the head end than on the nut end. you can see the clearance on the other end between the bolt head and the roller also.

I use a soldering torch and PB blaster. then drill a hole big enough for the bolt head but not the brass in a piece of flat bar, put a nut on the thread end so you don't mushroom them and add heat and lube then tap the bolt through the hole in the bar with a hammer and flat pin punch.

yup but there is plenty of space at the other end, if someone forced it on and tightened it down over a bunch of gook then it will be a bugger to get off. I use a soldering torch and PB blaster. then drill a hole big enough for the bolt head but not the brass in a piece of flat bar, put a nut on the thread end so you don't mushroom them and add heat and lube then tap the bolt through the hole in the bar with a hammer and flat pin punch.

I don't know but the more i scratch my head the balder it gets and the more i scratch my butt the hairier it gets. I think I'm transplanting the seeds.

IMO so you don't smoosh your gars pushing on the snap and so the case can fit different lengths. maybe other reasons too. simply perfect.

c4 is an explosive!

Its very easy once melted, however the fumes are very dangerous don't consider melting it at all. The hot lead will burn you handles. Bismuth from a reloading supply store would be your best bet. You can get whatever size shot works fill the void with the shot then pour in the epoxy over it. That way no heat and above all no fumes. Another thing lead may be illegal in some states. Bismuth would be safer by far.

http://www.goligerleather.us/id405.htm

Why does a house burn down but everything in it burns up? If olives need oil then why do they sell it in different bottles? Same with corn?

lol My bullies would eat the cat and the leather.

It could have been for any number of bending ,pressing or light stamping applications in just about any thing from tin and light metal to leather and it still can be lol.

Thank you for that it says springtime all over it.

its in the percussion pistol pattern pack I think tandy still has it in their library. Its a civil war era holster

Love the holster it should work well for driving.

Your right that is the good thing, likely i; m sure but it doesn't I know cause i have one or two. Anyway one thing i do know from actually making and using my design and looking at his is that the top flap hinders the reload more than anything, and it is the primary reason either style would rotate up on the belt not the speed loaders them selves they are not in tight, at least mine aren't it should be a one handed operation. You may notice my top flap is long enough it hangs a bit below the bottom allowing easier manipulation of the snap and flap, think upside down thumb break. The hand comes up from the bottom unsnapping and moving the flap at the same time. Unlike the Velcro on his the snap is much easier to unfasten so doesn't pull the holster with it. As you can see by the temporary attachments I did spend some time thinking and working this out. Make the snap tongue to long and it catches on stuff, make it to short and its not easy to open. if you want it stiffer then use heavier leather on the back strap. Just other options and ideas the man can use or not that's what the forum is for right?

My daddy had a saying "its your house you can paint it any color you want", i stand by that saying too.