chuck123wapati

leave it alone the bigger chance is your only going to ruin it. Dye wont get rid of the pattern of patina and wear around the decals, you don't know what other things like conditioners or water proofing have been applied that may effect the dying process and you still have the liner to contend with that will no doubt get stained in the process from small wear holes or loose stitching. Enjoy that beautiful coat and existing patina for what it is or sell it and buy a black leather coat. Sorry to be blunt but i see a wreck coming.

Someone posted this knife on a previous thread https://bladepoint.eu/collections/bladepoint-knife-blades/products/bladepoint-ghoul i made a few for folks here in the states who wanted to try one. I tried them they work really well IMO especially on the thinner leathers like you use. the thread is called "A new knife" if you want to search and read it all.

if it hardens it will crack when bent i put it on in thin layers the first thinned down so it will soak into the leather and adhere well then just thin layers until its as opaque as you want. thick paint cracks sometimes even on canvas. if your using a translucent paint then use white first as a base. then the sealer of your choice.

yup those are the places.

time in a bottle! very nice theme.

All three are fantastic, my son could sure use a new one. i could have used a thumb hole on mine this last month although i had no coffee or cinnamon rolls with me at the time. I don't know about the dowel rod idea if i was to see a huge bull elk and my rifle was hooked to my britches things might get ugly in a hurry lol.

oh no that sounds like a simple solution but the husband wife happiness matrix wont allow for that. See now he has to figure out a way so she doesn't think he dumped em out on purpose.

bevel the one side of just the three sharp points in the middle where they appear to be a square rod. My guess!!! jeeze you come up with some doozies lol.

found this info, I'm assuming it was a cotton blend at least. https://leathermilk.com/leather-conditioner-rot-stitching Cotton Threads Cotton is an organic thread. The thread's quality is actually quite good on its own - cotton is fairly durable, and is very cheap. Next to nylon, it's among the most common materials used for threads. Unfortunately, cotton has some weaknesses. Cotton absorbs water and conditioner, takes longer to dry, has food value for bacteria, and can degrade outdoors. This fosters an ideal environment for rot potential, especially when the cotton stitching. This problem can be mitigated, somewhat, when the stitching is made from waxed cotton. This type of thread has natural resistance against water and oils, and will repel fluids well. Although this thread will likely last much longer than other cotton threads, it can still degrade under weather and sunlight. Cotton is particularly vulnerable outdoors, and as such, it is scarcely used to make leather products.

yup good stuff as you can see on the front, many applications they just didn't write leather on it lol. i bought a small glass bottle of it that i refill from the larger can.

oh man how are you going to find anything?

just looked at the dap weldwood landau stuff, its for spraying so is probably very thin stuff. But i would bet it is exactly the same as regular dap weldwood or very very close except for the viscosity and about 20 bucks more for a gallon. As some have said when a glue performs so well that the glued item gives way first then using a "better" glue is a mute point. Regular old weldwood for me its in my hardware store, works great and as other have said its only for holding my stuff together until the thread is in.

I love it!!

the thread could have been either worn off or my guess is some type of chemical they used on the outside of the holster ate it up. I know from working the oil field that some lubricants will eat up the stitching in leather boots rather quickly too, guys used to try and waterproof their boots with the crap and in a few months were buying a new pair of redwings lol.

my guess is cost and/or ease of finding it in a local store. it should work just fine try it on some scrap first.

that should work perfectly. good luck!

that is nice work indeed.

i saw some for 10k lol.

found this site never ordered from them. https://alltribes.com/southwest-jewelry/belt-buckles/texas-ranger-buckle-sets/ i found aa bunch of custom makers but man are they expensive.

first off a punch doesn't have to be razor sharp or soon after you hit it with a maul a few times the edge will roll and be useless. if you can see any amount of flat on the edge then it needs that taken down to non existent but not thinned or sharpened as you know sharp to be on a knife. I use a very fine sanding belt 400/600 grit on my belt sander so not much metal comes off and slowly turn the punch until i take down that flat edge keeping the wide bevel intact. what ever method slow is the key and paying attention to removing only enough metal to eliminate that flat area. I'm sure you can do it many other ways but thats the tool i have that works best. the idea is to end up with a good stout edge that tapers to zero and is still even all the way around and is strong enough to smack with a hammer. good luck!!

man that is cool but it looks like a finger could be lost pretty quickly too if not careful.

those look great to me. I think they worked out just fine, i like that cloth interior.

thank you its very much appreciated.

1. you can fill it with epoxy. 2. you can cut off the tapered part drill it out a bit, be very careful of splitting the handle, and glue in a new piece of hardwood dowel then re-drill and taper it to fit the ferule and awl blade.

wow that is cool. Do you have patterns for all of these or do you create as you go?