chuck123wapati

you make some really nice stuff I don't see you having a problems starting a full time shop and being successful.

i saw him in my back yard yesterday.

WOW that is an awesome case!!!

yup you sure can lol i just realized and remembered my childhood shooting technique from my picture. i would thumb the first shot as i was drawing then follow up with the other hand fanning it. my old thumb is still ready 50+ years later. i guess muscle memory never forgets even if i do.

One of my first and the most cherished firearms is a fanner, back in the day i could hit six silver dollars thrown simultaneously lol. That reminds me i need to make a new holster.

lol we will give half what its worth then sell it in our online shop for triple what we paid and you can handle all the manufacturing problems oh and direct ship also. thank you !! I do hope you are wrong and they are a standup company but i couldn't find any links to newsafetyideas.com

you will need to get a picture of his brand and how he draws it, they are very personal and sometimes don't even look like they sound. You can also get it from the brand inspectors website of your state if you know his name and such. BUT i would ask him personally to get you a picture so you get it right the first go around.

beautiful looking indeed and wonderful lettering.

here is a really interesting video on fast draw holsters.

LOL if i were to put myself through that torture i would try rawhide first, at least it wet forms.

then good luck i am sure you can repair it into serviceable condition. I would measure the thickness of the old piece and get the same thickness. I would also think there may be a leather craftsman some where close that could spare a piece and some rivets and barter or buy from them or a local Tandy store will have adequate leather, then you would get the right stuff. Seven months wait time??? wowzers.

man your work shines as always!!!

I don't usually open pictures but i did yours , the front is no problem, the leather on back needs replaced it has dried out and dry rotted, you wont be able to save it the top layer is gone. Its the important part that holds your gun to your belt so replace it completely. With that being said you have to take that piece off, remove the rivets, and if it has been properly glued you might ruin the second piece as well while getting them apart. Then after the repair you will need to add some nfo or water proofing because it is so dry. it wont ruin the form it will save the leather from further dry rot. now on the front and re sealing it, you can do it like you wanted to and you may even think about a good black shoe polish instead of carnuba that's what the military and most cops used on those to keep them looking good. Repairing it is doable imo but...… by the time you buy all the leather, rivets, glue, dye, stains, conditioners, and sealers. what will you have? Here's the deal on "restoration", if you want to restore it to functionality you will have more money and time in it than its really worth and you will ruin any possible collectability. That was gone with the dry rot. Simply put you can buy a new holster cheaper or even find a good original hk holster cheaper. if you want to keep it as a collectable which it isn't really then leave it alone and don't use it, put it in a frame and enjoy it and buy a good safe holster for your awesome p7 you lucky dog.

polish em , sharpen and use.

here is what i know about them. The old fast draw rigs for competition started out on tv to help the star actors out shoot their bad guys. The steel, Rawhide or fiberglass insert allowed the revolver cylinder to rotate while still in the holster allowing the single action revolver to be cocked while being pulled. then along came fast draw competition that used them for the same reason. Other than that there is no real reason to use them on edc holsters. Other companies use spring steel inserts to help hold guns secure in open sided holsters to enhance the draw also. These are used on edc holsters.

with the knowledge you already have on how orders are placed and when. i could see you making a run for an order just shortly before the order was placed so you wouldn't be setting on money but you would have a leg up to ship faster. I don't know this part but your problem may be getting the beds to the ships while in port so starting after the order is placed may not work well.

beautiful work it is fun to get to do something a bit different. if i didn't already have two holsters for my Anaconda......lol

pretty good imo, I would use dye as that's probably what was originally used, I don't know if either would really fill or replace the original surface if its been worn off. is the top layer of leather gone? you should also apply a conditioner such a neets foot oil or a good waterproofing product before your final sealing, it will replace any lost oils in the leather.

poor guy never shot a Colt? Now i feel bad for him lol.

Very nice work!! i like that idea gunmakers emblems in a coaster set would be cool.

They are shoes right? clear shoe polish over your favorite water proofing.

https://animals.mom.com/differences-between-cutting-roping-saddles-3537.html

interesting question indeed! i managed a maintenance shop for years and many many times we worked at producing multiple products for the prison like beds, tables and such. first off you need to make your list of supplies from your design including all your needles, thread, glue, etc. Then you need to make one and find out how much of each product you will actually need, people sometimes ruin eyelets so you need a factor for that, plus how long each construction sequence takes, cutting , sewing etc, and to find the easiest/fastest construction sequence like sewing first or punching all holes first, this will be changed as you gain knowledge but it gives you a starting point. I used construction sequence times to figure out time accurately when doing multiples, its easier and faster to sew ten items then go to the next step instead of making one complete bed at a time. then you need to lay out your workspace to coincide with your construction sequence so everything flows from one job to the next. Time management flow also is a concern, how long each job takes how many people each job takes, if one guy can sew ten beds in day but the next job eyelets ,for example, only takes half a day, then the eyelet setter needs to be working on another step of the operation for the other half day. supplies should also be considered as very important , how long to get them is the biggie, at what point to order more so you don't run out of one thing that stops production, especially the small stuff like thread or glues that you don't really take notice to. Are you planning to make them and stock them or make them per order? Stocked = how many are you going to set on before getting a return vs per order= you get paid but the consumer has to wait for the construction process. There will be variables that change in the beginning and you really need to be open on this and willing to see change in process when it becomes evident. Learning curve, ordering and supply problems, and personnel problems. I used to lay out these processes then set back and see how the workers refined the workload and work flow ,they were the experts so i went with their ideas more than not.

Best thing to do is try it on some scrap then you will have first hand knowledge that you can reliably use and share.

good luck and god bless you.