Hardrada

Yep, looks more like a dwarf to me. Vikings didn't wear horned helmets. Neat work, though.

Sssssssuperb!!

FWIW, I just use my chisels. If they don't punch all the way through, I don't force them or get frustrated: I finish punching the (half) holes and then place the project on a cork board and finish making the holes with my diamond awl, just being careful the awl is perpendicular to the board and slanted the right way. This method's never failed me. Tedious, yes, but doable, practical, and with good results.

This is the only "kit" that I've bought: a collection of templates. You can have them in acrylic but must wait for shipping. Shipping from Vietnam was slow even before the current situation, so I'd just get the PDF and print them onto cardstock: https://am-leathercraft.com/collections/pdf-patterns/products/simple-watch-strap-pattern-video-tutorial-from-18mm-to-25mm The video embedded in that page is a different one that the one I had previously watched from him. Here's the original, you can watch it prior so as to get an idea of what's involved and why a paring machine is needed:

A paring machine is a must. I couldn't make watch bands without my Schärffix.

Pictures would help.

I'd suggest checking those spam folders. They're being proactive, not waiting for members to comply. I just received this to-day: (Boldface mine.) Yeah, like I am gonna refund them.

Awesome!

That happens because you're pulling the leather with the knife when reaching the end. It's kinda "normal" to happen when performing the cutting motion, but it's definitely vexing and leaves you with a crooked line at the end. A number things you can do: Leave some leeway, so that your project doesn't end at the crooked end, and you can just trim the crooked tail. After cutting, leave the ruler in place and trim the protruding tail with a skiving knife. Start the whole operation by making an incision along the ruler ~1/4" to 1/2" from the end, and then cut from the top as normal: the knife will run into and join the pre-cut portion without pulling the leather.

I'd think the smart move would be to have one's own online store. Alas, if Shopify goes woke too it'd be the end of many of such stores. Only other option would be a fully independent online store that wouldn't depend on third-party platforms running from a VPS or better, but those are not easy to set up or maintain. Or cheap.

Ditto. I'd love to use them, but the investment to go in can't be justified at this point in time. It's worse for me, what with the exchange rate and duties and all.

So far I've gotten good results with cardstock. Letter-sized cardstock is cheap and runs through any printer. The only issue is when your item is larger than 11x8.5", such as slings or bags, in which case you'll have to tinker with your design program to be able to print on several sheets and then cut and put together with tape. For a more permanent/durable pattern item I use bag stiffener, which I got from Tandy, but I bet any leather supplier carries it.

Got a similar BS message. Apparently slings are "gun parts". So, if your hand-crafted eagle feather attaches to a firearm somehow, it's now a "gun part". Dangerous! Sounds like a whole cartload of woketardness to me. Seriously considering pulling my Etsy account. Not like the 'store' is selling a lot: all I've ever sold there has been one item: A rifle sling!

Pull-the-dot snaps? https://www.dotfasteners.com/shop-by-brand/pull-the-dot/

Yep, I did the whole edge dyeing and burnishing routine before stitching, as it woulda been very difficult and potentially harmful to the project to do it after full assembly. You must also dye and burnish those small areas where you will be looping the thread over the edge to reinforce them (i.e. where the flap joins the gusset) prior to stitching, lest you either leave a raw spot or have to apply dye over the thread, both of which would look terrible.

Thankee. No, it's not lined, hence you can see the stitches on the outside of the gussets that hold in place the holders for the tamper and cleaners: It's all hand-stitching. I don't own a machine, and I prefer hand-stitching because of the advantages the hand stitch has over the lock stitch: durability and ease of repair. It does take longer, though. But I find hand-stitching relaxing, so there's that too. RE: wet moulding. I haven't done enough that I would feel confident to offer suggestions. I've done a few projects for myself (Zippo sleeve, end sleeves for my phone to cover the cameras for privacy...), but nothing sellable yet. I've also haven't dabbled with dyes: I buy my leather in the colour and weight a project requires. I've found these ones kinda useful/interesting, though: This bloke is dyeing in addition to moulding, so you might find it useful: I'd recommend watching quite a few of the videos from the first link (Hahns Atelier): he's got all kinds of different projects, provides the info on what he uses, and he does both hand- and machine-stitching.

This is what I have: http://www.proedgeburnishers.com/hand-burnishers.html I got that one because it's a premium burnisher and I like having premium tools I don't have to buy ever again (yeah, yeah, I know even the best tools can still break or go missing, but well cared for they last a lifetime), because it's got many grooves for different weights, and because Tandy messed up when I ordered their slicker and instead of a hand burnisher they sent me a burnishing ring with only two grooves (WTH). I use Tokonole for burnisher compound. Perfect pairing. The pouch I posted pics of above was burnished with that cocobolo burnisher and Tokonole. I've used denim and canvas to burnish, but I prefer the slicker. It's just... slicker!

Hmm, I think you posted you got this one: https://www.oaleathersupply.com/collections/new/products/sepici-leather-spade-milled-black-5-6oz That's soft temper. The one I suggested is the non-milled: https://www.oaleathersupply.com/collections/new/products/sepici-leather-spade-chestnut-3-4oz Yup, a rigid pouch like this one: I used medium temper 3 oz Badalassi Carlo Waxy for that one. Yes, you're correct: only vegetable tanned can be wet moulded. I've experimented wet moulding latigo (chrome tanned first, then veg re-tanned) and didn't really get a good result. For moulding and carving/stamping, you have to use veg tan.

Let us know how it turns out! If you want your pouches to stand on their own, go for the Sepici Spade next time!

Here, mate: https://waterhouseleather.com/leather-buying-guide/ Listed as kipskin there. I'd suggest some medium to firm temper veg tan no greater than 3 oz in thickness. Here, check these out: That's for a round pouch, for a square one like yours this might be interesting:

Kip doesn't burnish well. It's very soft tempered. Now, I don't know how firm you want your pouches to be, so I won't dismiss it right off the bat, but I wouldn't use kip for that application.

Rocky Mountain Leather Supply splits the leather you buy from them to your chosen weight. For wallets, I get their chevre split to 2 oz or even 1 oz.

Thinner leather. Don't go over 2 oz.