Daffy

two part epoxy

not mine but not too far from me.. wish I had the space, I'm sure it needs some work for the price. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1755616948212611/?rid=987626682339506&ad_id&rt=1&refID=0&refType=0&referral_code=commerce_attachment

I like non chrome tanned pigskin, flesh to flesh glued. Not a fan of suede for the same reasons as above.

Absolutely fine looking old Iron! Pad looks good too! Ping....

I use pig skin on every holster, stretch the pig skin when gluing it to the veg tan. Helps with when you fold and wet mold.

Looks Great! I love how Bocote finishes.

Beautiful craftsmanship!

Used these exclusively at my old job opening telco and fiber optic cables. One word of caution, they can cut you to the bone and beyond.

Assuming you are going to use the actual firearm for molding, I do, I wrap it with saran wrap and wrap a dowel on the top for relieving the front sight. The Hank Strange videos with Andrews are very informational, I utilized them alot when getting started. One other note, I personally would cover the front sight with the leather, protruding out the end of the holster like the picture shows would make it more difficult to draw. Another personal choice of mine is to line the inside with non chrome tanned pigskin.

Google is your friend, you tube has lots of great informative videos to get you under way and going forward.

I have 3 2x72 grinders that I made. sounds excessive huh... for the roller wheels get some skateboard wheels with ABEC9 bearings (longboard wheels) a lap or two of masking tape down the center of 3 of them helps with tracking especially the one that is used for tracking adjustment. Here's a great video for the motor controller, I've found it to work great on any dc motor 1hp or lower, It will not power my beast as it has a 3hp motor. for making the tools, yours look great, using stainless steel bolts instead of grade 8 is a better option as described above. making textured tools... experimentation and patience.

Wow... Couple years ago or there about I bought my class 4 from the leather machine Company. one issue that was resolved here regarding an adjustment. otherwise it has worked flawlessly once adjusted to my needs at the time. I don't buy a car with the expectation that a mechanic sits on standby for me waiting to work on it or offer free advice on how to fix it.

Same , This ^^^

Nice setup, when using something like this you have to be ever so cautious to not round out your cutting surfaces, why I prefer the strop backed by a platen. For the inside I do a pass or two by hand with a strop on a board.

Make yourself a leather strop for your sander and use white or green polishing compound, i've got one for my 1x30 and my 2x72, with a sharpen at 1000 grit the strop will polish to a mirror.

Nice! + I agree, shake hands with that 4! gave me a reason to dump the scraps I had accumulated. Very little hand stitching done now.

I think he meant Lacing. Beautiful Rig.

might be worth a shot.

Was looking at both a little over a year ago, went with the Cobra 4 because of the attachment package as you stated. Very happy in all aspects.

You might check with folks in the Texas Knifemakers Guild. https://www.facebook.com/groups/texasknifemakersguild

Thank you!!

Ok, bought it new arrived about a week ago. Left foot was on it and was the machine worked fantastic after setting tensions etc. Had a holster in the works, needed the right foot for some tighter stitching and it rubs on the needle arm. Installed the double foot to verify and it's obviously got some alignment issue. Don't see anyway of adjusting side to side. Do I just machine both feet to fit? Yeah can call Steve, thought I'd ask here first. TIA Pic attached.

I make knives, and sharpen them for folks. 2x72 belt grinder for the straight ones or outside curves (various grits down to strop depending on the steel being sharpened and necessary edge refinement needed.) 1x30 for the re-curve blades with a strop. of course not all steel is equal and some don't power strop well, another story entirely. Straight razors are all by hand and end on a 2500 water stone prior to stropping, where they start depends on how out of shape they are. most leather tools I have are all hand done on a specific sharpening jig of some sort, but blades are blades, the steel dictates the process for desirable results. I like High Carbon steel for it's edge retention properties but it comes with the necessity to maintain it more judiciously.. Steel aside love this wood.... Bocote.

Good stuff all in one location! Thanks!!

Permanently closed my local store in Peoria,IL....