AlZilla

Actually, a quick search for mycelium "leather" turns up a ton of links like this one: https://mylo-unleather.com/ It's "leather", not leather.

So it sounds to me like you're looking to start manufacturing a new product and promoting it here. Might have bee easier to start there. Probably get less opposition if you don't call it leather, since it's not. Kind of like plant based chi'kn - on it's own merits, some of it is passable, but it's not meat.

Hey, nice work! Keep us posted on how it works out!

Is the presser foot just pushing the feed dog? Try it with the presser foot up. I've often observed a little catch when freewheeling a machine as the feed dog rises to the presser foot.

If you're confident setting up and tuning a machine, you have lots of options. If you want something that just works, straight out of the box and you have dealer support you can count on ... Either Toledo Industrial or Leather Machine Co. Toledo is quite active on the forum and frequently jumps in to help people with machines they bought elsewhere. Either one can offer a competent recommendation. Just my .02

These guys have a manual for it: https://www.manualslib.com/products/Pfaff-546-3553107.html

I don't think you'd need a lathe. The holes I'm seeing have set screws in them so they really just need to be close enough to fit well over whatever shaft they engage. Other than that, they're just little arms. Having originals to pattern from would be nice but I don't think critical. Edit: Don't those parts diagrams usually say something like "Full Size", "Quarter Size" or something like that? That might get you in the ballpark.

Very nice work, meticulous and clean.

Keep ranting, @Gabriel Rasa For 6 decades I've been thumbing my nose at environmentalists (remember global cooling that was going to usher in a new ice age?). Even I am buying into microplastics. Your polyester clothes even shed microplastics when you wash them. It's not breaking down any time soon. If this faux leather is plastic, I'd avoid it like plague.

I know zip about sandal making but I've always understood that shoemakers prefer horse butt for soles. Apparently it's very durable.

Yes, it is. Probably next to identical. Thank you!

Well, I dragged it home. Closer inspection of the brass plate and it says 22w156. Looks like it started life with a roller presser but now sports a regular double needle foot. One needle as been removed and the left drive gear for the bobbin backed off so it's been used as a single needle. Everything turns as it should so I'll restore it to double needle function. Patent dates are 1892 and 1897. Serial number location is still a mystery. The table top and speed reducer are home brewed. The reducer uses the pillow blocks on a shaft setup with 2 pulleys. I priced that setup out once and if I remember right I was looking at $40 or $50. I looked around for an operators manual to no avail yet. If someone has a PDF, I'd appreciate a copy. Thanks for the help getting it ID'd.

Thanks. I figured it was pretty much a textile machine, but it should be fun.

Cool. Thank you. I'm thinking I'll try to get down there this weekend. Looks like a fun machine.

I had to downsize that pic to get it small enough. When I blow up the original, it looks like a twin needle. I've asked for a closer look. If I'm reading ISMACS right, I think that makes it a class 22 of unknown revision. I may have to go get it. Anyone else think it's a 22?

Thanks, guys. Here's the operator side. The tag is apparently obliterated but it and the 2 pins above it look suspiciously like something Singer would have done. It does bear a strong resemblance to the W&W 12 but I think it's probably post buyout of W&W by Singer and based on their #12.

Can anyone id this old industrial machine? I have another picture from the operator side I'll upload later, much too big for now. https://maine.craigslist.org/atq/d/dresden-antique-sewing-machine/7674315127.html There is no kind of identifying anything on the machine. There's a brass tag on the column but not a thing remains to be read. Thanks

I never see anyone recommend Leather-N-Rich but it works fine for me. The hat in my profile pic has been rained on quite a few times and always dries like it never even happened. I've used the aforementioned Mink Oil with similar results but it doesn't have as bright a sheen. I did see a respected leather worker (Red Nichols, maybe?) criticize it once upon a time but can't remember exactly why.

I love that! Could we see the seam where you joined the cover together? I don't quite understand "The strap on top is to hold the bottom in the rolled up state."

Well, I'm practically stunned it wasn't a bearing. How about putting the belt onto the naked shaft and pulling some tension against the shaft as it rotates to isolate the noise to the motor or pulley/belt?

The backs of those snaps come in different lengths for different thicknesses. It appears that your back is too long for your project.

It doesn't make it with the belt off but does with the belt on. It's got to be a bearing. Take their 70 euros, replace the bearings and never buy another vevor product.

Well, he was. Now the nice witness protection people will be moving him ... again.

So, would something like a billfold suffer from this problem, too? What would be the best part of the hide to use for applications that are going to have 180 degree folds? Maybe something other than cow hide?

I've always assumed that when we say the strength is in the flesh side, it means abrasion/cut resistance, too. It looks like they were stretching the test straps to 1.25 times the original length. Too bad they didn't go until they broke.