Mablung

Was the surface of the outsole that mated with the midsole roughed? If it was still smooth, you'll have some adhesion problems. Sometimes the cement will soak too far into the rough side of the leather, too, preventing good adhesion. Did you wait until the cement was tacky, no longer wet but no longer totally dry? Too far toward either end, and it won't adhere properly.

Good copy on the fold---if it helps retain the blade better, no reason to get rid of it. Personally, I'd get rid of the rivet since there's a welt, since it just isn't necessary and messes with the visual flow. As to your stamping, I think it looks quite uniform and quite good---I meant more that that style of stamping just isn't my style (I'm kinda stuffy re: style). It was executed well, though, as was the antiquing.

Apparently no one thought to ask your son ahead of time if he spoke (I assume) English? Probably just brought the interpreter as a matter of course in order to avoid further annoyances and delays, if they were to find he did not speak English, but one would think they would ask first.

Does it have a welt? If so, I would skip the rivet. I know Stohlman says to put a rivet in to prevent the knife from cutting the stitching, but that will dull the blade, even a soft metal like copper. If it doesn’t have a welt, I’d put one in and skip the rivet. I’m not huge on the partial envelopment of the handle at the top, but that’s personal preference on aesthetics. It LOOKS like it might interfere with establishing a grip, but I might be misjudging that. Otherwise, good work. Everything appears well-proportioned and the stitching is good and straight. I like the color, too. I can go either way on the stamping.

I like it. The concho is a nice touch.

Ahh, that makes far more sense.

I've got his question as well. I love my Husky/German Shepherd mix, but she's quite enough to handle on her own.

A turbo encabulator.

Ah, I gotcha. I bought a prefinished blade blank. What sort of equipment do you use to cut the billets? I assume you're getting it already heat-treated, since you didn't mention heat-treating in your process of work.

What do you think of the edge and grind? The one I have didn't have a final edge, which the guy who sold it to me at a craft fair told me was purposeful so that the end user could sharpen it as he liked. I did notice the primary bevel grind and secondary bevel grind both were a little off-center and the secondary bevel is thicker at the base of the blade than at the tip, which has made sharpening the secondary bevel a touch challenging.

That is fantastic! I’ve got a small Alabama Damascus Steel knife, and I love it. No nice grips on it, but one day I’ll make a good set. That sheath is beautiful.

Lovely work. Your work brings some different things to the table on this forum, as not many people play around with paints or pictures in the way you do. I always enjoy looking at it, and this stuff is no exception. Great work.

What are your preferred bevelers, given your emphasis on ease of sharpening?

Is your question how to skive, or how to edge bevel? Not to sound at all condescending, but it sounds like you're not clear on which is which. An edge beveler is used to take the sharp, 90* corner off the edge of a cut, making for a nicer, rounded edge once slicked and burnished. Skiving refers to reducing the thickness of the leather, usually along the flesh side, by tapering from the thicker center out toward the edge, where it gets thinner. If your trouble is getting a consistent edge bevel, look at your beveler to make sure it's sufficiently sharp. Also make sure the size of beveler you use matches the thickness of the leather (although it doesn't sound like that's your main issue). Critically important as well is orienting the beveler at the correct angle to the leather, then using consistent pressure and angle of attack to cut the corner off. Personally, I find my beveling suffers the most when I don't keep my beveler angle and pressure consistent.

First off, what tool are you using for skiving? There are a couple of hand-use skivers that help provide consistent edges, using replaceable blades. Regardless of the tool used, practice practice practice is a major part of the answer. I'm not very good at skiving just yet, but that's partly because I use my round knife and am still working at keeping the blade angle of attack consistent.

I've used a sponge to apply small amounts at a time to accomplish the same end. Easier to control the application that way. One can do the same sort of thing with a spray bottle, like the mister bottles Tandy sells.

Hmm. I don’t know a ton about copyright law, but I know a little bit. I’m wondering if he could actually enforce that “10 items per year” limitation. Selling the pattern as one’s own, without any change to it or with only minimal changes that aren’t enough to make it a derivative work, yeah, that’s a violation of the copyright. It seems a closer call with regard to the items one makes using the patterns, however.

One can also attempt to force a size 4 needle through a previous stitch in a tight hole and bend it to curve that way. Results not guaranteed.

I’m not usually huge on basketweave, but I REALLY like the pattern you did on the wallet back. Very nice.

Lol, I gotcha. I was confused by the "flat round" series of adjectives and thought, "I think I know what he means, but I'll clarify anyway to be sure..."

By “flat round bar of wood,” I assume you mean one that is smooth, without additional grooves cut in its perimeter?

I like those, as well as the OP’s. My sister would like something like this (my mom not as much, but maybe).

What kind of mold (blue gun or cast) are the Glock 17 and 34 pieces? Any Glock double-stack 9mm magazine molds?

How long have you hung it? And are you trying to eliminate all signs of wrinkling, or just the main fold lines?

A loop like the one on this belt?