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  1. This is my first machine, and I have tried to solve this problem for days . On soft thick leather I don't seem to have this problem , but even on 5 oz Veg I always run into trouble. The top thread will break through the bottom intermittently. I've maxed out the presser feet pressure, and increased the top tension until I get loops on top. Is this operator error? what can cause this? In this picture I'm using 207/138 polyester bonded top/bottom with a new 134/35 24 LR needle on 8 oz. veg
  2. Hi all, I'd be grateful for some help getting my Pfaff 1445 going. I previous posted about feet, which I got from Hong Kong. They're mediocre but acceptable quality given the rarity of the machine. The machine wouldn't have been a bargain if it were free considering the time and expense that's gone into it. But hey, we've got another machine so I'll consider this thing a hobby. I've got the hook correctly timed, but I'm finding that it's very difficult to correctly balance relative top and bottom thread tension, or top dog pressure may be incorrect, or the bobbin case opener isn't correctly timed or distanced. Or all of these. Compound feed is accurately synchronized, needle bar centered in all dimensions, all stroke lengths are correct, bottom feed dog height properly set to ~.020" (.5mm) per the service manual. I've got a new needle plate, feed dog, and feet, which feed perfectly straight. I do need to take the needle plate over to the buffer and ease some of the edges the thread goes around. No problems with inconsistent tension between the cone of thread and tension rings. Top thread is correctly routed per the operating manual (unusual design and route). Bobbin thread is correctly placed and pulled. Pictures attached. Symptoms are: • Occasional skipped stitches and slightly inconsistent bottom stitch; the bottom and top quality don't match consistently • Backtack thread tension is very loose • Starting the stitch occasionally results in a squirrel's nest mess of thread on the bottom • When I get the top and bottom tension balanced such that the thread is more or less locking in the middle of my material, I occasionally find when turning the handwheel that the top thread is very tight as it crosses over the top of the bobbin and the motor may even slip on the belt I strongly suspect some kind of binding or tension issue is causing thread to get pulled off the bobbin or through the top inconsistently. I'm running a 3/4" HP servo motor with what I believe are the correct thread/needle combination for layers of 3 - 6 oz chrome tanned and retanned vegetable tanned leathers (the same size combination has always worked quite nicely on another machine).
  3. This is my very first sewing machine I'm not sure this is right. I can't believe how damn fast it is. I can't get a straight line or stop it in time. How the *&^% do you all control these machines I had to count all my fingers this first time I lit it up! Anyway,I want to post up some pic's of the stitches in 16OZ I've been able to do after two days for tweaking. If someone could take a look at these pic's and advise on what I should do next. Much appreciated! I did get an owners manual and the parts list. If someone here can advise me on how to post them I'd be happy to. Each is a little larger than the 1.46mb allowed I need the machine to do totes, belts and (hopefully) holsters. I got to slow it down. What servos do the best job.
  4. Hey Everyone, I Was hoping someone could give me some guidance on the difference between the Pfaff 1245-706/47 and the Pfaff 1245-706/48. I am thinking about buying one from a friend but haven't been able to figure out if there any real differences or advantages /disadvantages from one machine to the next. A little back story, this fella bought one of each model of these machines from his brothers upholstery school when it shut down. They are both German made and he believes them to have been produced in 1979 and 1980, not completely sure. I have some pictures I can post if that would help. This would be my first machine purchase and want to make sure I don't buy a lemon or pass up on the better model. Thank you all for any and all guidance!
  5. Hi all. Just picked up a cheap Pfaff 1445 in so so condition. I regret not doing enough research to discover that it's apparently a somewhat rare machine with few compatible parts. Does anyone have the operator manual (not the service manual)? I'm aware kwokhing.com for presser feet. Are there any other compatible feet available? How about service parts?
  6. Hello, can somebody help me. I need a needle plate for a Pfaff 595 (post bed machine). If somebody knows a source with a quite reasonable price I would be thankful. Regards Oakley
  7. Hey Guys, I'm on the hunt for a German made Pfaff 335. I am based in the San Francisco Bay Area. I would drive a few hours for pick up or would pay for shipping costs. Thanks! -Sam
  8. Hi Folks! I've been trying for about 2 straight days now to balance out the tension between the top and bottom threads of my Pfaff 335 machine (pictured below). I've tried EVERYTHING to get these stitches to come out evenly but keep getting the results shown in the sample stitching below. The closest I can get to even is to tighten the top tension nearly the entire way and loosen the bobbin thread tension to nearly nothing. That seems off to me. I've tried winding the bobbin at different tensions, checked my needle (135x17 SD1 #22) and still... I get this. I just don't get it. When I do get very close, the top spool thread also tends to fray. What am I doing wrong? Please help!
  9. Hi all! Im looking for a cylinder bed sewing machine in good or new condition. Even better if it has a flat bed attachment. Need it for light to medium work so I was thinking Techsew 2700 or 2800 but I'm open to other models as well. I'll be working mostly with lambskin but also some light to medium veg cowhide as well. I live near Philadelphia Thanks in advance!!!
  10. Here is a link to my CL ad http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/tls/5658472155.html I'm more than happy to send more photos and answer any questions. I'll also offer a discount to this group only. $800. I prefer pickup here in Cincy. I will travel as far as 100 miles to meet someone. Columbus, Louisville, Indianapolis, Dayton, Lexington etc. Thanks, Andy
  11. I have a "new-to-me" Pfaff that I'm slowly getting into, and I just noticed that the bar that the outside presser foot is attached to is missing the left ear. This makes the foot sit crooked, and as such it every so often hits the inside presser foot causing all sorts of clatter. I tried looking at the parts diagram for the newer 335's, but the seem to have a 2 piece bar, while mine seems to have a solid bar. Am I missing something or is the bar different? My machine is from 1976. And a second question, is this something that I, with no sewing machine repair skills what so ever, can replace? I have rebuilt cars and such and am reasonably handy, but I've never seen such a complicated mechanism as what's inside that Pfaff.
  12. Hello All, I have a PFAFF 335. It's new and I only purchased it a week ago. I'm pretty inexperienced with sewing machines. I believe I have it threaded correctly and it sews nicely. But 6 or 7 times out of 10 when I lift the presser foot and removed the material I find two threads coming from the bobbin. If I hand turn the wheel one thread will release and its usually about 3 or 4 inches long. So obviously its getting caught up somewhere. Can anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong? I usually have about 10" of both bobbin thread and top thread pulled towards the back of the machine when I start to sew. Thanks for your help Chuck
  13. Hi all, I've recently picked up a Pfaff 335 which features a synchronised binder - I have a 14mm shell, but I'm after a 19mm or 20mm shell for this machine, but I can't seem to find one anywhere. Is anyone experienced with these machines, or know of any stores which sell a range of shells for them? Cheers, -M
  14. Hello, I'm looking to buy my first walking-foot machine for my new start-up business sewing leather goods (mostly bags, purses, belts, vests and accessories). Everything I have read on this site has been incredibly helpful so far and it's clear that there are a lot of members who really know a good deal about all varieties of leather sewing machines. I'm hoping someone here can help me compare these two machines that are currently for sale for the same price in my area ($600): a Pfaff 145 H3 and a Nakajima 280 L. The seller of the Nakajima says the knee lifter slips and may need replacing, and it comes with a clutch motor but a servo motor could be installed for $175 extra- is this a good deal, and what is the difference exactly between these motors? Thanks for your time and any advice given! -Grace
  15. Hi! I have a Pfaff 335-H3-6/10-BS for sale in the NY/NJ area. Available with older table/motor, but I will also consider shipping head only. Sews very well, big bobbin, has fold-back edge guide. Asking $1500 OBO. Here is a link to ebay auction with pics, but I would much prefer to sell without ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/182080795475?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649
  16. I haven't posted much on this forum but I've learned a lot from the people here. I'm considering purchasing my first leather sewing machine. I'm considering either a PFAFF 335 or a Cobra 4. I do mainly small leather goods like wallets, watch bands and some bags. Does anyone have an opinion for which would be the better choice for what I do? I'm in southern California so I know that there is a dealer nearby for each of these machines which may be helpful if there are any issues after purchase. Thanks for any comments or advice. Chuck
  17. Ok, I got a Pfaff 545-H4-6/01. I know this is a really good machine but now I am trying to learn it and I could really use some help. I am very new to sewing machines but I am going to do what it takes to learn them. The first thing I need help on is the motor, I want to put a servo motor on it for better efficiency and being able to sew at slower speeds etc. but this machine has a lot of extras I have not seen on a machine and I do not know what exactly changing out the motor would involve. I am attaching a lot of pics to show what is on this Pfaff. I cannot even turn the motor on yet because the power cord is a 2nd phase cord (I think) and I only have the standard outlets in my shop. Anyways the motor is a Quick Rotan Synchro 6040. One thing that has me kind of baffled, the guy who I got the machine from said something about needing an air compressor hooked up to raise the walking foot. I think that is what he said but I am not sure if that is exactly what he was talking about. So this is a clutch motor right? Can I change the motor out and put a servo motor on the Pfaff? And what are all of the extra hookups on the back of the machine head? Thank you in advance. I can also take pictures of any specific part of the machine if someone needs to see it. the first 9 pics are of the motor and the last 3 are pics of the attachments on the back of the head of the sewing machine. Thanks a lot!
  18. Hello, I bought a Pfaff 345, unfortunately I've got a small problem with the stitching legth adjustment. I can't turn the knob stronger than 2mm. Does somebody knows how to solve that problem. In the pictures you can see the longest and the smallest length adjustment, possible at the moment. Thank you. Regards, Oakley
  19. Pfaff 145-H3-6/01 CLMNP $650.00 plus shipping (est $100.00) This 145 is in good working condition. I don't ship tables anymore because of trouble packing and cost of shipping. You are better buying new table, motor of you choice and reduction setup (if needed) from eBay. Machine located in Northwest New Jersey. I can pack and ship by UPS. Any question contact me. Note red plastic on top of machine is missing does not effect oiling.
  20. I bought a Pfaff 145-6C/D H3SMN. Unfortunately the shuttle doesn't catch the upper thread. I guess that the needle System I use is the wrong one. I googled and found that it needs 134-35 needles. Is that right? For me the needles seem to be to long. The machine came with 459R needles which have a too small upper part. 621 which are too thick and 134 needles which seem to be too short. I hope somebody can help me. Thank you in advance.
  21. So... I'm trying to wrap my head around this new machine I picked up two weeks ago. It's a Pfaff 335-H3 (I'm not sure what the "H3" designation represents). The Motor is a Efka Variostop. I'm not sure of the year on either, but it all looks to be original. So far with very little fuss I have it stitching nicely with a 22 Needle and 138 thread. My intent is to use it for wallets, totes, case, etc. So here are my questions... Efka Variospeed - Is this a positive or just a pain in the rear for a newbie? It's not too difficult to get it to run slow, but still I wonder if it would be better to just go ahead and get a new servo motor? I read in a desperate post that the variostop motor adds to the value significantly. Is that correct? Air Compressor - There's a weird air compressor type deal attached to the motor. I believe it controls the position of the pressed feet, but I don’t see how to adjust it (see next question). It even looks like I can hook up my larger compressor to it, but I’m not sure that’s a good idea. So... Is nematic hookup a positive thing or just more trouble for me to deal with?Only one Pedal - Pressing back on the pedal raises the raises the center presser foot and needle, but the outter feet remain down. I have to use the left handle to raise both feet and release the materials. Is this correct? Is there a way to adjust this function? Accessories… Roller Guide to be Specific - I understood there to be lots of different accessories for these machines, but I’m at a loss with finding them. Anyone know where I can get a roller guide for this model? Since I’m VERY new to using a sewing machine, the guide will help tremendously. New Pressor Feet - These presser feet have teeth, and it marks the oil tanned leather I've run through it so far. Should/can I buy new smooth feet or is it just easier to file them down? If I file the teeth down, is there anything I should be aware of? Value - I hoping you all can make me feel better about my purchase… What would you estimate the value of this machine to be as is with the Variostop motor? I think I got a great deal on it, but think it could really be a stunning machine with a little attention. The local industrial machine shop quoted me about $250 to have a new servo motor installed, and the machine tuned. Is it worth the cash? Pictures of the machine are below. As always… Thanks for the help and feedback! This is a great resource.
  22. Hey folks, I'm new to the board here and hopefully I'm not violating forum decorum (hey that rhymed), but I've got a couple industrial sewing machines for sale. Got a Pfaff double needle post bed with roller foot that has a 1/8" gauge and a powerful clutch motor, comes with table, thread stand, and light. Also have a Pfaff double needle flatbed with a 1/4" gauge and a super powerful clutch motor. I bought both of these machines just about 4 months ago, before I learned which machines I really needed for the work that I do, and ended up not using them at all other than to test them out. They're both a few years old but in perfect working order. If you do a search on Ebay for Pfaff post beds (this one is listed there), you'll see that others are much more expensive than mine, and that this is actually an excellent deal at $2,500. Same with the Pfaff double needle flatbed - a steal at $2,000. If you pay for shipping, I'll ship them via a trucking company and it will cost usually between $250 and $300, though obviously I would prefer a central Florida buyer (I'm in Kissimmee, Florida). Post bed machine: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pfaff-Industrial-Sewing-Machine-Model-1296-Double-Needle-Post-Bed-w-Roller-/221732080341?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item33a0430ad5 Flatbed machine: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pfaff-1422-Double-Needle-Industrial-Sewing-Machine-/221733596270?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item33a05a2c6e. If you are interested in either machine, let's talk. My email is LSU91@hotmail.com and phone is 407-304-0924. Thanks Jason
  23. Hi! It is my first post in this forum and I must say that my english is not perfect as I am a french Canadian. I recently bought these 2 old Pfaff industrial sewing babies. One is a Pfaff 335 still in good condition and the other is a 335-17, the owner said that the second one was for stuffing (rembourage) and is no good anymore, only for the parts. I am new to the ''industrial mechanic'' and I have such a tricky problem with the first one. I would be very thankfull if someone would give me a hint. The problem is simple. I need to change the needle bar. The owner gave me a new bar. As you can see, his thoot is broken and I need to replace it. I successfully found the screw that hold it tight and unscrew it but there is still a problem. The ''bobbin case holder'' at the end of the cylinder arm blocks his way out. I have been looking for a way to get it off (google had no answer for me, it looks like nobody ever broke this part before). I've been trying to undestand how it is attached by doing the same process on my second machine and it seems that these parts are directly fixed to the shaft on the inside... My question is : How do you take it off without damaging it? (Red circle) Any awnser would be very appreciate! Gabriel
  24. I was looking to buy one of these machines but wanted to know the difference. Does anyone know. I do auto upholstery wich do u recommend. Or is there a difference? ?????
  25. Howdy, I'm wracking my brain trying to figure out why my Pfaff 335 is marking my leather, especially at the start of a stitch line where I backtack. I've attempted to lighten the pressure of the presser-feet by backing off the knurled nob at the top of the machine, to the point it is barely hanging on to the machine, but it doesn't seem to have much of an impact. The inner presser foot seems to be fine, but the out foot is an issue. I've even placed my finger under the presser foot (machine off and needle out of course) to see if I can feel any difference in the pressure bing applied... I'm not sure what it should feel like, but its heavy. Seems like the the top pressure is not being affected by loosening the knob on top. That said, I haven't a clue what I'm doing. I've included a few picture to show how loose the top knob is, the position of the presser feet (they seem a bit canted to the left) and the marks being left on the leather. BTW... I'm stitching 3-4oz harness leather from Wicket & Craig. Any ideas whats going on here?
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