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Showing results for tags 'saddle'.
Found 91 results
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Hello Guys, I need your help to clarify my head from this "gusset problem". I'll try to keep it short in my story and case. I try to make a card case with gusset. Material : 3 oz vegetable tan leather I've already watch how to count the leather gusset to measure the body and how to stitch it with the main body in nigel armittage video on you tube. So he shows how to hole the leather using the awl, after you hole the other side with the diamond prong. Its true because after you glue the gusset and body, it will be difficult or even impossible to hole it with diamond prong. If I hole one side and the the other side separately, the hole won't be match (because the gusset is curved) So here's what I do: 1. Cut Gusset and measure the body. 2. Using V gouge from ebay (not really a v gouge) - V Gouge I used - with 0.5 cm mark from edge (for folding) on gusset part. 3. Hole the Gusset with 0.3 cm stitching mark from edge (because the curve its on the gusset). 4. Attach the body and the gusset. 5. Using the awl to hole the body from hole in the gusset (step #3) - failed #1 - the hole is zig-zag not straight. note: already sharpen the awl but still hard to penetrate the leather from gusset to body (trouble with motion, to narrow). 6. Stitching - failed #2 - why it pulled inside? Am I pulling the thread to tight? 7. Finish but when I look at the edge - failed #3 - 8. DONE I have think several cause about this "failure": (list of thoughts) 1. Maybe the Gouge not proper? Should I fold it with water after cut and gouge? 2. The material 3 oz leather is not proper for gusset? 3. Should I mark the gouge 1 cm instead 0.5? So the gap can make me easier for stitching? 4. Should I mark the body first instead of the gusset? (but in this case the gusset have a curve, not the body) *** I haven't done my "list of thoughts" with action because I'm afraid to waste another material. So before my next experimental, I hope you guys can help me, share your thoughts about this case. Maybe you have already done this and know the trick to stitch the gusset more easy? Just preview my thread it looks like a journal. Sorry for my bad english ^_^
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We are selling out our complete shoe repair and custom bootmaking shop in Poplar Bluff, Mo. We have two post machines that are like new, bought from Nick o Sew a couple years ago, one single needle, one double needle. There is also a Boss Tippman that is still just like new bought only a year ago. The rest of the shop equipment is older but in good working condition. There are 250 pairs of cowboy boot lasts and shoe lasts on which 7 toe styles can be made...some barely used. Full size runs with widths from AA to EEE or wider are represented in most styles. There are lots of supplies including thread, soling leather, rubber soling, heel bases and lifts, upper leathers and even some exotics. Would like to sell as a complete package. Buyer must come to the shop and arrange moving. Call 573-686-4545. No calls after 9pm central time please. I will not respond to texts. I can email detailed photos upon request. Asking price for complete shop package is $15,000. Let`s talk.
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Looking for advice on what I can do with this saddle! Is there anyway to deglaze the seat and dye it another color? I am hoping to take it to a dark brown or mahogany color if possible. Also, the basket stamp portion on the skirt and pommel has a glittery finish - yes, GLITTER! Is there anyway I can remove this? I love this saddle - it is very comfortable and I use it all the time for barrel racing but it is just plain tacky! Any advice is appreciated!
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I will be teaching SADDLE CONSTRUCTION design and patterning, using concepts that can be applied to other areas of construction--- including holsters, knife sheaths, saddle bags, rifle scabbards, and various cases. There are only a few seats left for both classes; however there are several openings for just the first day. Day 1 is Lecture and Demonstration. I will teach you how to take a sketch of your concept / idea and translate it to a functional design, and then to usable patterns. If you can only attend the first day, you will still go away with all of the hand-outs, notes, and a plan and method. You should be able to go home and create your own patterns after only taking this class. Day 2 is Application---I will help you make your own patterns for your own tree. You will go home with patterns! Call me with questions. 307-272-1881. http://www.leathercraftersjournal.com/product.cfm?product=851 http://www.leathercraftersjournal.com/product.cfm?product=852
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Hello everyone, I've been asked to sell a saddle for a friend and I'm looking for some information about what the price might be or where to go in Colorado that might be able to tell me more or buy it. I know that it has seen better days and has been used quite a bit. This is a Heiser saddle from 1880-1920 with a nickle horn and it looks like there used to be a crest in the seat that is too worn to read. I haven't been able to find any information online with these saddles having the nickle horn. Thank you for any help you might be able to provide. -
All books, older pneumatic machine. Serviced about 5 yrs ago, used a bare handful of times since. Don't need it. Asking $2500 obro. Located in central indiana.
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I have two western saddles that I purchased used that have a similar type of damage. Apparently the previous owners used a saddle rack that was peaked rather than rounded and when the saddle was pulled off the rack the underside of the seat was torn, exposing galvanized metal underneath. I don't expect this will ever have an effect on the function or life of the saddle but it looks terrible. Any thoughts on how to repair this? I was initially thinking about moistening and stretching the ends back together and just stitching it but there is some of the original material missing now. I have never built a saddle or disassembled one to repair it.
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Hello All - I am a new member, and this is my first post. I'm excited to begin learning from this community. I have an antique bicycle saddle that has split on the "nose," where it was riveted to the metal subframe. I'm debating whether or not I should try to reconnect the leather in this area, but do not want to experiment anything with the process. The value of the saddle is ~$300, so I do not want to risk devaluing it. Having said that, I've been looking around and seen a few products advertised to "glue" leather (Tear Mender). Would this be a safe method to use? In addition to this, should I use any other products to glue the leather to the steel subframe...was considering some kind of epoxy for this because it will be hidden once the leather itself is mended. Finally, is there anything I can use to fill the joint and color to match the rest of the leather? (see 2nd photo) I will not ever actually use this saddle to ride on, so I am not concerned with any weight stresses that would otherwise occur. The bike will only sit on display. Please see the photos below and let me know your thoughts! Thank you!
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Was hoping someone could help me with either how you cover and have the stitching on the inside or what time of leather to use that will stretch and not have to stitch it at all.
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New in box. Asking $1000. This is the newer aluminum model. Material guide ($120), Left presser foot, right presser foot, and center presser foot ($37 each) also available. Could make a deal to throw them in, if you're interested... This is a cool little stitching machine, but I recently decided to combine workshops and tool-share with a fellow leather-working friend who already owns one. Email me at Leathertammy@gmail.com
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Hi folks, Today I got crazy and decided to make an iPhone case with sew on tag (label). This meant to be a gift for my sister and she is a huge fan of Star Wars theme. Most icon character is Darth and I decided to make it with my new Amy Roke pricking irons in size 8 spi and Barbour thread 18/3 in natural colour. To be honest I should to choose 18/4 as it's looks much better with those irons. To find a picture, print it out, transfer it on the leather, punch through, saddle stitch, crease all the lines around and finish edges in aluminium colour took me almost 3 hours which is not bad at all. There is a pad on the inside cut from soft nappa skin. This will give more 3d look on the final item. So tomorrow need to prepare a case-pouch for the phone and to stitch this on top. P.S.: It's raining. Again. Aleks from London -
I will be doing a saddle flocking course / girth strap course on 10/10/15. The cost for this 4 day course will be £220 normal price £400 Details can be found on our website http://www.uksaddlery.com/saddleflocking.html We have a total of 6 spaces available A £50 deposit will be required to secure a place on the course For more details email sales@uksaddlery.com or call 07929 947996
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Hi everyone, My name is Aleks and I am from London. Also Russian speaking Two months ago I decided to start practising in making leather goods. I do not make any big projects until I will be confident in all processes like pattern cutting, stitching and finishing edges. This is my last creature, a trolley coin keyring. Materials: black smooth calfskin, natural colour 18/3 Barbour thread and Fenice grey edge paint. Tools: Pro-Line diamond chisel 6spi (new Amy Rokes irons 8spi already ordered), soldering iron withbrass tip from aliexpress (need to order proper Regad Fileteuse with F2 tip), sand paper 400 grit. A nice slanted stitch using single knot and crease line was made using regular soldering iron. This project was made to test new way of stitching and new edge paint. Fenice is much betterthen Giardini. Almost ready to switch my direction to Leo Degarmo brand. Thank you
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I recovered this old saddle from my great-aunt's shed. She told me that her father (my great-grandfather) used to ride this saddle whenever he went out for a date! I figured it must have been very nice in its day, so I wanted to fix it (any tips on fixing bent/cracked leather, please share! I'm currently using Leather New and probably some saddle oil, but advice about other chemicals/techniques that would be better would be most welcome). It was kept on a shelf in a shed that was poorly-protected against the Mississippi elements (well, it survived a tornado that took down a bunch of massive pines, so it must be sturdier than it looks), and there were plenty of spiders living in the resulting folds of the leather. The leather has a lot of those webbing cracks in it, especially where it's been unnaturally folded from sitting on a flat surface. It's not so dry that it cracks at the touch, and for having sat on that shelf for God-knows-how-long, I'm surprised it's in such relatively excellent shape. There is a defined cut in the cantle, and the seat looks to have been scraped away a bit in one area. The stirrup buckles are very rusty, and the strap that connects the girth to the saddle (it's not like any saddle I've seen; it's kind of Y shaped, with the girth attachment at the cross-section of the Y and making the tail) has broken off in transport, although I still have what remains of it. I'm not sure if it will ever be like new again, but I'd like to get it as close as I can. Furthermore, I have no idea what type of saddle it is. I can't find a maker's mark anywhere, but I haven't looked too thoroughly for fear of cracking the dry leather any further. Online, I've found some types of saddles that are similar, but I'm not certain they're a perfect match. I'm not sure about the year, but I figured it must have been made around late 1800s or early 1900s (and if my great-grandfather got it from HIS father, even older? His father, my great-great-grandfather, owned a slave plantation, to give a bit of perspective, although I've no idea if that's where the saddle came from). If anyone knows what kind of saddle this is, or where I can go to find out, please let me know. (P.S. I've never posted to a forum before, so I honestly don't know how to attach the picture files. The file uploader keeps telling me the picture is too big, and I had 6 pictures total to get every angle; I can add the pictures later when I figure out how. Until then, I apologize. Please share information on leather restoration, at the very least!!) -
Hello. I'm sure more senior forum contributers are tired of this topic, but... I have been combing this site for information about saddle quality and what constitues quality contruction. I know most experts here hold a low opinion of production saddles, and seemingly for good reason. I have been looking for a quality saddle in a 16.5" seat with "FQH" bars/tree with a budget of $2250 (firm), with no luck. Got close, but no luck. My question for all you saddle makers and repairers: In your experience, are there ANY production saddles that show more elements of quality construction, than what is normally expected/observed? For example, I have been eyeing some Reinsman Ranch saddles - http://www.horsesaddleshop.com/reinsman-ranch-saddles.html The shop manager told me that they use 20 guage seat strainers with built up leather ground/shaped seats, Hermann Oak grade 2 and occasionally grade 3 leather, stainless hardware, Precision Kevlar-reinforced trees w/lifetime warranty, etc. The guy was honest enought to tell me that they do use roofing nails (sparringly) in construction some aspect of the saddle. So what say you? ANy good production saddles out there? I will mostly be using it for hunting, trail riding, and maybe some light roping. I also ride dressage, so don't mind a a balanced seat either. Thanks.
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I have been a member for a while and looking at everyone else's nice work. I wanted to show off my first saddle. My new hunting saddle. Finished it the first of October and took it to Colorado for an elk hunt. Broke it in right, although I was nervous about it! But I guess that's what it's for.
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I have an old saddle and am curious of what it is and its worth. On the front rigging dee it is is stamped with "EZ RIG PAT MAY 1815". Then on the inside of both rear rigging dees it is stamped with a very small anchor. The last mark that I have found is either a 6 or a 9 which is stamped in the leather underneath the saddle in between the fleece. Other than that I cannot find another markings. It has no maker marking stamped in the leather that I have been able to find. Please let me know if you have any information on it!
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My new bag, make with bridle leather. . . . Thank you.
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So I'm an artist and will be doing an art show at a Western Heritage weekend. So I thought it would be cool for my display to have some old saddles. Posted an ad, bought two off this old couple for $20 each. Covered in dirt and dust. So while cleaning them this morning, discovered one is a Hereford. Stamps still fairly visible on the fenders and has the metal logo plate on back of the cantle. Stirrup leathers are laced. Has 3-4 inch wide wooden stirrups covered with tin. The latigo holder has 1006 stamped on it. Anyone have any ideas about what the approximate date would be on it? -
Hey there folks, I was hoping that someone on this fine forum could help me out with the identification of a Bona Allen saddle. Any information will help me such as the year, the model, the authenticity, what type of horse it was intended for, typical materials used, or even any special manufacturing practices used for this saddle. It came into my family in 1969 and by then the leather was already well-worn, chewed by the cattle (See Photo 4), and left to hang and to endure the Canadian elements in the barn. As far as I know, the family which the saddle came from was raising ponies for local fairs and photo events. This could be possible since the decorative workmanship is somewhat ornate (See Photo 2). Is it correct to assume that it was meant for ponies? It measures around 16"-17". I placed a standard-sized CD on the saddle to give you an idea of the size (See Photo 4). I believe that the cinch and the stirrups were both replaced in a local repair shop years ago (See Photo 1). In this repair shop, the man had been thrilled that the saddle was an original Bona Allen. The barely-visible letters B and A on the front underside of the saddle seem to attest to his words (See Photo 3). Here are four photos and I will provide any additional information that may help. All suggestions are welcome since I don't have much experience in identifying saddles. Thanks, CanadianCam -
Dear All! I have a beautiful H.S Lebman saddle that is to heavy for me to manage easily!, I am asking for advice on where is the best internet site to sell it, and also what the 'circa' value, It is a 15.5" Saddle in good condition. I am sorry to have to sell it but for long distance rides its 16 kilo is too much weight! any advice much appreciated The stamp says H.S Lebman, San Antonio, Texas, and in the center of that is S.Flores and under that name I think the number 37.
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I want to build my son a saddle. He's about 5 years old. I have experience building saddles. I've built about 12 now but only for adults. Just wondering what size of tree should I order how much leather I can expect to use a good tree style any other tips would be appreciated. Thanks.
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I'm sure this has been posted before, but where might be the best place to get tacks for making saddles? Can I get these things at Home Depot, or do I need to buy them online? I've been looking at shoe tacks, but the shipping is ridiculous in most cases, and I don't want to get the wrong thing. I don't have extra money to waste.
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I've got the opportunity to get a great deal on some back issues of the Leather Crafter's Journal and was wondering if anyone knew which issues contained Pete Gorrell's saddle making articles. I think they started in May of 1999, but how many issues was the series in, and were they in order one right after another? Thanks so much! Jamie -
My new machine! I'm pretty sure it's a 'Pearson No.6 Harness machine'. There's what I presume is a serial or model number stamped on the top which reads 4949, if that means anything to anyone. It seems to be running relatively well, although I need to get some proper thread for it and fine tune the tension. Also, purely cosmetically it could do with a little bit of attention, I might touch up the gold lettering on the top wheel, and maybe even paint it black one day, but we'll see. Anyway, all in all I'm rather pleased.
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