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Hi all, I am trying to install a zeromax speed reducer i bought onto a juki ddl8700 with servo motor for some fine tune sewing of curved in tight spaces on small objects of leather and other thich fabric. Could anyone help me in figuring out how it is to be mounted/installed? I can grasp the concept and verify the reducer device appears to be working properly, I am just a bit confused on where to mount, top or bottom, and how/if I need to move my current servo motor for the belts to correspond and unit to sew properly. Any advice or links would be greatly appreciated I am a technician and have no problems using my hands I am just not exactly a pro when it comes to sewing machines as I have only picked it up as a side hobby over the past 1-2 years. Thanks! James

Like new Cobra Class 4 premium package. Used less than 1 hour. I had a holster business and Tandy Leather dealership years ago. Thought I would get back into it and changed my mind. Machine, several spools of thread (black, brown etc.), tool box, maule, punches, knives, bevelers, swivel knife, HD stamp/rivet press, dies for press, Clicker Dies: two types of western holsters, iwb, pancake, foldover for small caliber, cowboy cuffs (2), gun belt buckle and tongue dies, rounder, practice piece, arrow head, spur straps, iwb leather belt loop. These are high quality clicker dies with almost no wear. YOU DO NOT NEED A CLICKER TO USE DIES - you simply lay the die on concrete or other hard surface (blade up), place you leather over the die and tap around the die with a maul or mallet. In minutes you have a perfect cut out. The concealment holster dies are not shown and are steel rule/plywood dies. The press is not shown either. I forgot to mention that I have an extra motor/tabletop for the sewing machine. Also some gun molds (red gun and Duncan alum) $3800. These items are included with the machine: Premium Accessory Package: Left Toe Presser Foot $75* Open Toe Center Foot $65* Double Toe Presser Foot $80* Right Toe Presser Foot $75* Work Platform $95* Holster Plate $156* Stirrup Plate $156* Slotted Plate $85* Blanket Set (Inside & Outside Feet w/ Feed Dog) $150* Heavy Duty Roller Edge Guide $95* Pair of Thread Nippers $2* LDA-1 Magnetic LED Light $20* Owner and parts manual

Can anyone give me any info on this old sewing machine? I know it's a Davis and the motor works. I don't have any numbers yet but I may be able to get them in a few days. A friend of mine is asking $400 for it or he'll throw it in if I buy his truck haha. He said it came out of an old saddle shop and can sew up to 3/8". He said it just needs to be timed. Would this be a good buy for a beginner? I mostly build holsters and other various goods, nothing too thick. Also how much would it cost to have it "tuned up", or is that something a mechanically inclined person could do on his own? If not how about a place to take it around the eastern Phoenix AZ area? Thank you to all!

Hey folks! I am having difficulty with getting a good bottom stitch for our leather products. I am finding that the top has a very even and good look with deep holes, but the bottom is coming out sort of rough and crappy looking. I don't think it's necessarily a tension issue, maybe the needle we are using? does anybody have a suggestion on how we can get this stitch look a bit more professional? Thanks!

Consew 227 with reverse, It has some age but it is in excellent condition. Just serviced by a professional and worn parts were replaced. Table, variable speed motor, speed reducer and new belt. Pick up in Western NC or I can meet in the vicinity of any of these zip codes: 28746,29670,30605 $1200 OBO Moving shop to SC and trying to reduce the load.

I'm watching the work of a few of my online peers and noticing that they are going to great lengths to stitch up straps and casework, but not really lining the leather and not for obvious structural or assembly reasons. I've certainly stitched my share of works but only if I was lining a piece or making a connection and on the rarest of occasions for an aesthetic effect. Does anybody else on these forums do this? Is there some function other than "looks"? Particularly the straps---does stitching prevent stretching and loss of shape over time? Thanks for your thoughts. Mike

Sell sewing machine Duerkopp Adler 669-180010. Number of needles: Single needle. Stitch Type: Shuttle. Platform, type: Sleeve. With triple advancement. Energy saving stepper motor with needle positioning function. 750W, 1x230V. Table (height adjustable). Countertop 1200x550mm. Lamp. Suspended (folding on top) ruler adjustable 0-42 mm. A set of one-sided legs. Needles 134-35 LR 100, 110, 120, 130, 140 for 30 pcs. Bobbins Duerkopp. Duerkopp oil. The sewing machine was purchased from a Duerkopp dealer in Lithuania. In production not used. Condition: new. Ptice 3200 $ (or 2800 euros) + delivery from Riga (Latvia). Price without VAT. Delivery by transport company from Latvia. Shipping cost depends on the location of the buyer.

Adler, Camoga, Fortuna, Galli, Krause Industrial Machinery Located in North Florida, this leather company is consolidating their inventory and I am helping sell the items. The equipment included is brand new, or like new, indoors/factory kept, European machinery. - Pay by cash, check or bank wire. Credit Cards will be accepted, a 3% transaction fee will be added. - Pick up items in person or arrange your own pick up/delivery/shipping. - DM me for more information, to answer specific questions or additional photos. - Images can be viewed by following this link: Flickr Images We have the following machines for sale: (1) Adler Sewing Machine - $4,180 (2) Adler Handbag Sewing Machines - $3,080 each - German Made, includes Servo Motor and Table (2) Adler Sewing Machines - $1,980 each - German Made, includes Servo Motor and Table (2) Adler Sewing Machine - $1,870 each - German Made, includes Servo Motor and Table (1) Atom Clicker - $5,280 (1) Camoga 520 Splitter Automatic - $14,850 (2) Fortuna Bevel Machines - $1,980 each (1) Fortuna Bevel Machine - $2,970 (1) Fortuna Type UAF 470 Splitting Machine - $10,450 (1) Galli Stamping and Number Machine - $3,300 (1) Galli RCB Bag Trimming Machine - $6,600 (1) Galli R5L Belt Collector - $7,150 (1) Galli TGV20 Drying Tunnel - $3,300 (1) Galli FC2E Belt Polish and Paint Machine - $8,800 (1) Galli SM3 Bag Polishing Machine - $4,950 (1) Galli LCS2 Glazing Machine - $6,820 (1) Galli TCE 3000 Oil Pressure Punch Machine - $3,300 (1) Galli Srapy Booth - $4,950 (1) Krause Cardboard Cutter - $2,420 (1) Protos Type 1652 Linear Folding Machine - $3,300 (1) Protos Strap Cutter - $4,620 (1) Protos Folding Machine - $1,320 (1) Protos Type 680 Tracking Machine - $2,200 (1) SPS Automatic Stapler - $2,640 (1) Silvy Strap Cutter - $7,150

As is. I don't know if this runs or not. I was told it came from the shop of Art Vancore, a well known saddlemaker in California. we really need the shop space so this project needs a new home. Asking $550.00 and will crate it for that price. You arrange shipping or pickup between Hollister and Gilroy, CA. It is very heavy! Please email me to request photos, they exceed the attachment limit here.

Does anyone have step-by-step pictures of how you knot your thread when threading a needle for hand stitching? I am having trouble with my knots slipping undone as I stitch and would love to not have to re-tie several times. Thanks!

Howdy, Long time prowler, first time poster. I'm having an issue with my sewing machine. Im runnin' a Singer 111W155 industrial walking-foot machine and for some reason the bottom stitch will bunch. I've add a picture for reference. Is this a problem with my machines timing? Or have I set the tension incorrectly? The top stitch looks fantastic. Also I notice that in the areas where this occurs the machine tends to buck and needs a little extra gusto to take the next step. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Hello, I bought my Cobra Class 26 3 week ago (NEW). It´s really nice machine, and I like it a lot. But I have problems with servo motor and controlling the sewing speed. When i set speed on for example 15. I cannot sew slowly. When I press foot pedal, just a little bit it, sews immediately fast. And when i set speed on 5, it sews slow, but sometime accelerates for few stitches (like on number 10), and than slow again. But my foot pedal is still. Maybe you have some suggestions what can i do? I tried a lot, but probably not everything. Thanks a lot and have a nice day

Dear all, I have got my hands on a pfaff 561 with an efka variostop motor. I'm a true newbie with (industrial) sewing machines and I really didn't know much about the machine before purchasing and how to value it. I've come across the problem that the machine shuts off when I decrease the pressure on the footpedal (from fast to slow stitching). I don't know what happens, I can only explain it as the experience of lowering the speed in a (clutch) car and the speed becomes too low for the gear and the car finally shuts off. The efka motor of the sewing machine "stutters" and then finally shuts off as if it has short-circuit. I can't restart the motor up until (over) a minute later, before it starts and shuts off again. The seller told me the machine works on 220 Volt, but maybe not? Are the settings not compatible? I would really appreciate it if someone with the knowledge can give me an update on the do's and don'ts with the efka motor! Was this purchase a mistake? In the meantime I got my eyes on an Adler 67-73 L with a servo motor, though it is double the price. Would it make more sense to return the pfaff and invest in the Adler? I am situated in the Netherlands and don't work with leather but I make bags and wallets with waste tarpaulin.

I am currently stitching all my wallets by hand because I like the way the thicker thread looks. I have a Consew 207rb5 that I use for any hidden stitches but it will not handle a large enough thread to replace hand sewing the visable areas. Being I am sewing wallets with 3-4oz Harness Leather it’s also crucial to have a feed dog that will not chew up the finished side of the leather. Any suggestions on alternatives to hand sewing that will give the same look with the larger thread?

I'm making a bass bow quiver with a carved pattern. I usually sew projects after they are fully stained, antiqued, and finished (usually satin shene.) In this case, I need to sew the pattern up and then wet the project and place a block in the end to expand the leather a bit so it doesn't pinch the bow when inserted during use of the quiver. Do I sew it up before blocking then stain and finish? This will make it difficult to antique and the finish may drip as it won't be laying flat. If I finish then sew and try to expand the end, won't it mess the finish?

Nearly new! Full automatic Durkopp-Adler 281 industrial sewing machine. Semi-dry direct drive machine, single needle.- Automatic thread cutter- Auto foot lift- Auto back stitching- Bobbin counter- Built-in bobbin winder- Semi-dry head- Direct drive (no motor attached to table)- 120VComes with the machine head, table, bobbins, thread stand, and more. Complete, and ready to sew.I used this machine to sew sample jackets for a couple months. Perfect for all fabrics, denim, garment-weight leather, and more. Photos: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/dhz5w7gczdvbq4h/AACn2fr9D8QyCxzuTWEL3Buaa?dl=0 Local Pickup in Central New Jersey. Looking for $850 or BO.

A friend picked this machine up for a good price, does anyone happen to know what brand it is or clone type? Thanks!

So I’m new to leather working, I’ve been hand stitching my projects but it’s SO tedious! I’d like to get a sewing machine, but the ones I’m seeing are over $1,000? I usually use 2 layers of 8 Oz leather for my breast collars and a layer of 8 Oz and a layer of 5-6oz for inlays on the bridles I make. I don’t want a machine that barely gets through the leather, I’ve seen a few that sew 1/4” leather well (or they’re advertised to do so). Is that enough? Or do I need to get something more heavy duty? Any advice on what brands are good and what price range they’re in (around $500 would be best, but i know it’s a long shot)

Hello Everyone, I am new to leather work and have been making small accessories for about a year. I ultimate goal is to make horse tack for barrel racing or possibly heavy leather hand bags. I am looking at investing into a leather sewing machine, what should I be looking for? What machines will work for me? I plan to make breast collars, halters, nose bands, etc. Let me know what you think. Thanks in Advance, Jessica

Selling 1912 Industrial German Singer 29-4 Lether Patching Sewing Machine. It has the original stand can be operated manually or can use the small motor that we have added. We are closing down the Shop and need to sell. More photos at https://photos.app.goo.gl/RLksQUfaYKTgFPVf7. If interested in this or any other item on the list below please email me torossian@gmail.com We also have (click on the links for more photos. 1940 Hunter Century Fan 1912 Singer 29-4 G Sewing machine with Oscillating Shuttle with stand, and original table Auto-Soler Landis 12 Model G Paragon Model 1 1930 cast iron stretcher Landis finisher 1947 Singer 17-30 leather sewing machine with motor PFAFF Sewing Machine walking 2 legs. Vintage Metal Round Nail holder Carousel Grizzly cobble shoe stand with 7 attachments 4' wooden draws Landis 5 in 1

I'm aquiring my equipment for a retirement hobby business that I want to pursue I'm fortunate to live about 2hrs from the Wicket & Craig tannery and they do retail sales And I like tooling shaping and stitching leather but saddle stitching is slow so........ as a business I'd like to mostly do belts, chaps, sheathes, and holsters but might try wallets, Totes, watch bands and whatever also. at this time I have : an older consew, a 226 (Seiko build) that I plan on doing the lighter work on using 69 and 92 thread for Watchbands, wallets and other work below 8oz and medium fabric work Another older consew a 206rb-4 (Seiko build) I'm planing to use for 138 and 207over138 thread work I Plan to use it for Belts and simple sheaths below 20 oz total How much tweaking would a 206 take to reliably run 207 in the bobbin? A cb3200 which was my first leather stitcher And second sewing machine of any type before the Acquisition virus took hold i plan to continue to use this for pancake holsters, heavier belts, and welted sheaths up to 32oz total using 207 and 277 thread a CB4500 for everything heavier than 32 oz or needing 346 or 415 thread and finally I also have a China cobbler and a herd of Black iron singer domestics for the really light stuff I believe my intended usages are appropriate to the machines in hand Any suggestions or something I'm maybe not considering? I'll still be working for a few more years so as OT is available i will add the equipment thats still needed Like a powered splitter and strap cutter and possibly a better patcher? Tia Jim

Hi, How economically feasable would you say is to buy an leather sewing machine like an Juki TSC 441 or it's clones like the Cobra class 4/CB 4500? I have heard stories from "just with 1 saddle repair you can pay off a leather sewing machine" to "it's more like a Hobby since Prices are to low for leather goods to justify an sewing machine". In my case it's indeed more an Hobby since I make only one-to-one personal sales despite I am on etsy.com. I have seen here an constructioners harness (for hammer, nails, screwdrivers, etc) made in Mexico (Truper brand) seemingly real leather for about 6 US$. Well constructed, lots of rivets and sewn with about #69 thread. Clear is, for that Price I would never make the harness. I would rather have an Price of 49 US$. Whats the real leather market about? Considered big retailers, Made in China and local leather shops as competition.

I'm selling some of my leather working equipment and also some leather, to make room in our small apartment for my son's bedroom! Pickup in San Francisco please for large/heavy items including leather. I can ship the electric iron/edge creaser and zippers if you pay for shipping. VSB Burnishing Machine from Campbell Randall: Brand New (Unused) burnisher for sanding, polishing and finishing leather edges - to end all hours of manual sanding work. Includes leather felt wheel, wax stick, abrasive stone wheel, diamond wheel, and additional work table to rest your piece. New (unused) for $590 (Save $100 vs buying from Campbell Randall directly). Global Industrial Workbench - 60 X 30 inch Solid Maple Wood Square Edge Work Bench- Adjustable Height - 1 3/4" Top. Legs adjust so that table height can be from 27 ⅞ inches to 35 ⅜ inches. Like New for $235 (Save $200 vs buying new on website. Tax & Shipping only is $155 to San Francisco). Granite Hammering Stone: 12x18x3 inch solid granite tooling slab for leatherworking. Used for leather skiving, stamping, and tooling. Excellent condition. $100 (Save $52 including tax vs buying new). French Burnishing electric iron/ edge creaser: Regad M3000 6V Low voltage Power box with wood handle and Right-handed F2.5 Metal Burnish Head. This electric creasing & edging tool is a very popular product for Hermes, Louis Vuitton and other high-end craftsmen creating their iconic creased and polished edges. Regad is well known in the industry for their high quality edging tools and accessories that are made to last. This machine will substantially reduce the amount of time you spend on your edges and will give your projects a polished high-end look. Excellent condition. $400 (Save $230 including tax vs buying new). Wood Sewing Clamp: 51 inches (1.3 Meters) long wood sewing clamp for hand-stitching leather. Excellent condition. $125 (save $50 vs buying new). Hand setter for snap buttons: Hand tool for setting snap buttons on leather. Like New, barely used. $105 (save $100 including sales tax vs buying new). Italian Full-Grain Leather: Gruppo Mastrotto B. Adriacolors Italian high quality full-grain leather in black, red, and off-white. Half-drummed, soft hand and pebble grain finish. 1.2-1.4 mm thickness. Each skin is 43 to 50 sq ft. $129-150 per skin ($100 off vs buying direct and shipping). Italian Smooth Leather: Gruppo Mastrotto Nappacolors high quality, full-grain Italian smooth leather in brown, mustard yellow, burnt orange, and dark blue. Soft, high-quality touch. 1.1-1.3 mm thickness. Each half skin is 23 to 26 sq ft. $130-150 per half skin ($75 saving vs buying direct and shipping). 9. Zippers: Several high-quality zippers from Lampo and YKK. YKK Red zipper tape (11 meters) with ELITE gold metal teeth (size 3) - $55 for all or $5/meter YKK Black zipper tape (10 meters) with ELITE gold metal teeth (size 5) - $80 for all or $8/meter YKK Red zipper tape (6 meters) with ELITE gold metal teeth (size 5) - $48 for all or $8/meter YKK Beige/Off-white zipper tape (5 meters) with ELITE gold metal teeth (size 5): $40 for all or $8/meter YKK Gold zipper pulls (~50 qty) in Size 5: $25 for all or $0.50 / each YKK Gold zipper pulls (30 qty) in Size 5: $9 for all or $0.30 / each YKK Gold zipper pulls (~50 qty) in Size 3:$20 for all or $0.40/each Lampo Superlampo Red tape with T3 Light Gold teeth and pulls, finished zippers (18.5 cm long) - 12 qty.: $18 for all or $1.50 / each Lampo Superlampo Magenta tape with T3 gold teeth and pulls, finished zippers (18.5 cm long) - 4 qty: : $6 for all or $1.50 / each Lampo Superlampo Black tape with T5 Light gold teeth and pulls finished zippers (120 cm long) - 2 qty plus 5 end stops & 7 top stops: $16 for all or $8 / each Lampo Superlampo Red tape with T5 Light Gold teeth and pulls finished zippers (120 cm long) - 2 qty plus 5 end stops & 7 top stops: $16 for all or $8 / each Lampo Superlampo Off-White/Light Beige tape with T5 Light Gold teeth and pulls finished zipper - 1 qty (120 cm long) and 1 qty (77 cm or ~30 inches long) with no pull or end stop plus 4 end stops & 6 top stops: $12 for all or $8 / finished zipper and $4 for 77cm tape Lampo Superlampo Mustard Yellow tape with T5 gold teeth and pulls finished zippers (120 cm long) - 2 qty. Plus 3 end stops & 6 top stops: $16 for all or $8 / each Lampo Superlampo Copper Brown tape with T5 gold teeth and pulls finished zippers (120 cm long) - 2 qty. Plus 3 end stops & 7 top stops: $16 for all or $8 / each Lampo Superlampo Dark Brown tape with T5 gold teeth and pulls finished zippers (120 cm long) - 1 qty plus 4 end stops & 7 top stops: $16 for all or $8 / each Lampo Superlampo Blue tape with T5 gold teeth and pulls finished zippers (120 cm long) - 2 qty. Plus 4 end stops & 7 top stops: $16 for all or $8 / each Lampo Superlampo Burnt Orange tape with T5 gold teeth and pulls finished zippers (120 cm long) - 2 qty. Plus 4 end stops & 7 top stops: $16 for all or $8 / each Lampo Light Gold T5 zipper pulls - 10 qty: $5 for all or $0.50 / each Lampo Gold T5 zipper pulls - 16 qty: $8 for all or $0.50 / each Lampo Light Gold End stops - 14 qty: or $0.04/each

I recently purchased a juki lu563. It came with an extra motor, a enduro pro sm645-1p. It was missing the fuse cap and fuse. I contacted enduro and they can’t tell me what amp fuse is used with this motor. Does anyone know what amp buss fuse is used with this motor? I’d like to get it running. thanks

I recently purchased a juki lu563. It CSM with an extra motor, a enduro pro sm645-1p. It was missing the fuse cap and fuse. I contacted enduro and they can’t tell me what amp fuse is used with this motor. Does anyone know what amp buss fuse is used with this motor? I’d like to get it running. thanks