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Hi all, I have the "other" kind of V-gouge from Tandy, the all-metal one. The staff all recommended the other one with the wooden handle but it was out of stock and I needed to cut gouges in a product and ship it right away. I have this one: http://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/craftool-adjustable-v-gouge-2 And it sounds like everybody loves this one better: http://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/craftool-adjustable-v-gouge I see why this gouge is problematic. The blade has over 1/8" of play up and down, and with the blade sharpened on the outside, it naturally pushes itself up and out of the leather. With the blade adjusted far enough out to cut 5oz leather clean in half, I can depress the blade all the way back up into the handle. I spent about an hour fiddling with it, and found the design to be fundamentally flawed, but perhaps fixable. The adjustment knob has a keyed post that pushes the back of the blade up and down, and the blade has a notch to fit over the post. To make sure there's enough tolerance for the blade to swing at different angles, there's a huge gap between the top and the bottom. I'm away from my shop today but can post pictures tonight if it helps. For now what I've done is punch a hole in a piece of 5oz leather and wedge it onto the post inside the notch on the blade. This stiffens the play considerably, but also makes the knob difficult to turn. The blade still has enough play to pop up out of the leather sometimes so getting a clean gouge requires multiple passes. Does anybody else have this tool, and is there a trick to making it work well? Is it a well-known "take it back and get the other one" kind of thing? Thanks! Dave

Hi I'm new to the forum and new to leatherworking, but its fascinating to me already. I've made a list of hand tools I'm about to buy and need some guidance to make sure they're good. Are these a good choice? What else might I need? My first project is going to be simple, a wallet. Then I'll make a tablet case. Here are the tools/dyes/etc. from Springfield. I'm thinking I might order some from Osborne. 21-251001 Cement,Contact,Barge 2oz 34-01 Gum Tragacanth,4oz 34-211002 Dye,Fieb,Oil,Dk Brown,4oz 34-261201 Finish,Carnauba Cream,4oz 34-222001 Finish,Tan-Kote 4oz 88-145 Awl,Haft,Stitching,#145 011-811600 Folder,Bone (Plastic) 011-809100 Overstitcher,Set,Sz 5,6,7 28-3003 Punch Set,Mini,Heavy Duty 011-808200 Gouge,Adjustable,V,Metal,SLC 011-807400 Groover,Stitching,Adjustable 88-54 Blade,Awl,Stitching,2" 011-807603 Edge Beveler,#3 130-119500 Needle,EZ Thread,10pk 130-001 Needle,Harness,"00"Med,2pk 97-5000 Thread,Waxed,AsstColors,5pk So anything you would recommend? to change? to add? Thanks!

I am looking for a way to clean, store, and preserve my tools (especially knives). My first thought is something like Rem Oil, and I am curious if anyone has any thoughts on this. I store my round knife in a leather sheath, but I am worried about rust spots developing over time. Immediately something like Rem Oil comes to mind, being that a person would use that to clean and store firearms. My only hang up with this is that the residue may harm the leather when using the tool, something like causing it to not accept dye or finish. Obviously I wouldn't soak the blade in the oil, but give it a good wipe down like a person would with their guns. If there are no unwanted effects on the leather, I can see this being a great way to care for all metal tools. Any input on this would be greatly appreciated. Mark

We really do listen to your feedback... Please take advantage of our FREE SHIPPING offer now through October 9th. Free standard domestic shipping on all orders over $75. Stock up for winter. You must provide promo code LWSHIP at time of order. Anyone can purchase and/or register for an account with Ohio Travel Bag. If your order is over $30, you can take advantage of wholesale pricing*. If you need only a few items, we have retail pricing and no minimum order for you . We have over 7,000 items in stock, ready to ship to you today. Our new website will launch within 60 days. Can't wait!!! *A taxpayer ID or vendor license is not required by OTB to receive wholesale pricing. Sales tax may be applied if a valid Sales Tax Exemption form is not on file. Check out many new items here: http://www.ohiotravelbag.com/NewItemCatalog.html Keep posting feedback and replies. I love hearing from you.

I am a new member to this website, and also a fairly new leatherworker (about 5 years or so). Admittedly this is also my first forum post of any kind. Let me start by saying that I think this site is a great idea, and has been extremely helpful to me (which is why I decided to sign up). The amount of knowledge so freely shared here is amazing. I can't thank everyone who contributes enough for that. The topic I propose is this (forgive me if I am doing this wrong, or this isn't an intended purpose): From reading through posts, I have noticed a lot of tools, techniques, tricks from multi-talented individuals. What I propose is a discussion about innovation. I do not have the means or the tools to produce new and innovative tools, and quite possibly techniques. I would like to get a discussion going about tool and technique innovation going. Perhaps someone has an idea for a new tool that would be useful, or a technique that they would like to try, but can't because of limited means (no machine shop, lack or the tools to try it). What I see coming from this post is this: New ideas: A tool that someone cannot create but may prove useful that someone has the ability to make, test and ultimately gain use from, hopefully manufacture at some point. Seemingly new ideas: Something that seems fresh, but someone has tried before, but didn't quite work as expected. Perhaps they can provide some insight as to why. A technique using current tools: A what if question, but maybe someone doesn't have the tools to do it, but would like to know what might happen if they did. The results that may come from it. I apologize if this post is too wide reaching, feel free to direct me to a post that may have already covered this (I tried to look), or flag it as needed. To start it off, I bought a roller beveler from Jeremiah Watt. I like the idea, but wondered if a tool with interchangeable wheels, like embossing or overstitch, with different patterns (crosshatch, lined, smooth, different angles/sizes) similar to the multiple beveling stamps available would be something useful. The problem I see, on top of it not being quite the same as a fully stamped piece, is depth and contrast. Any thoughts, contributions, criticism is welcome, and I appreciate it. Mark (I promise any future posts will be shorter)

Hi! I'm a new member who's returning to leathercraft after a thirty-year gap. I have a huge collection of tools from 'way back and, of course, most of them are rusty. I've managed to salvage a lot of them by using fine steel wool, a toothbrush and a soft cloth, but many of my good figure carving stamps are still pretty rusty. I'm wondering if anyone can suggest a way of getting the rust off my tools so they might be usable again. I don't suppose there's a way of getting them re-plated once this has been done? I know I can't restore the tools to new condition, but they cost a lot thirty years ago and I doubt I could afford to replace them all at today's prices! Please help if you have any good ideas!

Made this for a gal who is going back to school for sewing. She didn't want to haul her scissors and tools in a bin from classroom to classroom, so this should work for her. This was a fun project. Hand sewn, no pattern, custom design. Thanks for looking. Our shop is on instagram now: search manypawz

Hello everyone, Has anybody here ever seen an edge beveler that looks like the picture below? It goes over the leather differently than most bevelers I have seen from any of the major companies who make tools. Any help is appreciated.

I have not logged in for a long time...and when I did I saw some very outdated posts and information about our company. Here's the deal: YEP! we've been in business for a very long time. YEP! Ray still works here (40 years) and knows his shiz! YEP! I'm still actively managing operations here (only 16 years)! YEP! We still have live people answering the phone, who are really nice and helpful! NOPE! We are not running our business the same as we did 20,10 or even 5 years ago! YEP! We are still a wholesale distributor, with an easy qualification process and a $30 minimum order (NOT $75). YEP! WHAT? We now happily offer RETAIL PRICING. We are adding new products every day. YEP! We heard your feedback and OTB will launch a new "better user experience" website this November, with many enhancements and it will be mobile friendly. Please contact me with any questions and I welcome the opportunity to respond to any comments or feedback, even positive ones. All my best jackie@ohiotravelbag.com http://www.ohiotravelbag.com

I am a beginner leather worker LOOKING TO BUY tools. I need almost everything and figure second hand would be the best place to look first so I can put more money towards leather and hardware :D I am looking for: Stitching awl Scratch awl Skiver Saddler's Groover Edge Beveler Stitching Iron, 6 stitches per inch Stitching Iron or Overstitcher Size 8 (8-9 stitches per inch, fine stitching) Strap End Punches Rivet Setter Grommet / Eyelet Setter(s) Edger Tool Mallet / Maul Hole Punch(s) Oval Punch(s) Dye(s) Saddle / handstitching books or pattern books I would also be interested in leather! I'd like to find some latigo or perhaps harness leather. I am located in the US. Please PM or e-mail me at CheapNightmares@gmail.com with prices. I will update here as I gather tools.

Winters aren't so great in Cleveland....but we LOVE summertime here at OTB. We are adding new products every day. Visit our site http://www.ohiotravelbag.com or stop by in person if you are ever in Northeastern Ohio. Pictured from left to right are: Rebecca (Customer Service), Bruce Oppenehim (owner) and Marla (Accounting). Look how obedient the dog in the middle is!

I have recently tried to get into leather working. i wanted to get a very small stitch on my bags (as i have seen many profesional companies using such stitches) and i wanted to know if this is possible. I have been researching into Hermes and their bags and they seem to be using very small pricking tools and stitches. However when i went to Tandy Leather the guy there told me to instead use a 4 hole punch because if i didnt the bag wouldnt be strong enough. Any Tips?

Hello, I’m looking to start my first project, a handbag, and am needing tool recommendations and help with getting the right size tools. This is the material I’m interested in using. http://www.waterhouseleather.com/Soft_Milled_Vegetable_tanned_leather_hides.htm It says it is 1.2-1.8MM thick. Is this a good quality leather? Good price? How well do you think this leather will hold it’s shape? If I needed, What can I use to stiffen the bag? I bought my first tool, a H.F. Osborne overstitching wheel that does 9spi. Is 9 spi suitable for this type of leather? Needles Looking through the forum, I’ve seen that people like to use John James Glover needles for 9spi. Would the needles I need to buy be glovers size 9 to match my 9spi stitching wheel? Thread What size and type of thread do you guys recommend/typically use for handbags that will be stitched 9spi? waxed Polyester? Linen? Stitching Awl&Blade What size blade on an awl would I need for this? Any have any recommendations on what awl&blade I should purchase? Also, what type of fabric or leather do you recommended for the inside? Any help or suggestions are much appreciated, Thank you.

Hello guys, my first post here! I am a complete novice to the leatherwork/sewing field and I am looking for some advice here. I would greatly like to get into the reconstruction of Nike's/Jordans especially, completely redoing the upper of the shoe with premium materials such as python, lamb/pig skin and eventually leather. I have been doing a TON of research but when it comes down to finding a machine Google just isnt good enough, i need help from a real person with some experience. (PLEASE VIEW WHAT IM TRYING TO DO HERE: https://instagram.com/JBFcustoms OR www.jbfcustoms) I am looking for a starter machine to do this stuff with. Through constant research I have found that one of the top reconstruction artist linked above uses both a flat bed and a post bed with a roller foot. I personally cannot afford 1 machine really, let alone 2, so I am looking for something that is good enough to get me through my trial and error stage and help me make some profit to purchase a better machine! I have looked up several diff kinds of machines... Post, flat, teflon, cylinder, walking etc etc, but its all like a foreign language to me. I would like my first machine to be able to handle at least 3,4 oz of leather as well as the python and pig/lamb skin material. So far the cheapest post bed Ive found is a Yamata 810 at about $600. I have heard that some machines can come with attachments to make in into a flat, which would be great since that post has that 7" stand, which would make it difficult to sew the material together before actually putting it on the shoe... Links to a machine that can do this?? Links to machines in this price range period? Can somebody lead me in the right direction?! Im located in Ohio... THANK YOU!!! (posted this in a leatherwork thread as well, im new to the site lol)

Hi, Ive been looking into the pricking irons sold on http://www.bowstock.co.uk but wasn't sure on the quality. If anyone has bought from them, some advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Photos if possible.

I've just been browsing through YouTube and found this video, well worth watching. 'Preparing and Sharpening a Woodworking Chisel' by Paul Sellers Obviously for a chisel, but the techniques could also be used for leatherworking tools, especially a skiving knife. He includes a cheap method using wet & dry paper on a glass plate. I already have a glass plate, it was the glass oven door off an old cooker; I got it originally for skiving.

Huge Artisan Workshop Clearance Sale in Boulder! Handmade leather wallets, leather belts, beads, vegetable tanned leather, antique textiles, tools, antiques, vintage jewelry. Lots of nice pieces from around the world. Some tools listed on craigslist here: https://boulder.craigslist.org/tls/4979252939.html Saturday April 18 - Sunday April 19, 2015 9am - 5pm Location: 740 University Ave. Boulder, CO 80302

Here are some pictures of my workshop after I re-arranged it. I needed to re-arrange it and utilize the whole shop due to the increase in business. Let's see some picture of your shops and workbenches. I've seen some forums on there that have workshop and workbench pictures but none of them appear to be recent so I would like to see some of your shops and workbenches to help me utilize my space more efficiently. Thank You!

These racks are built to your specs. They are priced at $50 a square ft. We offer custom inlay work as well. We have a retail line of racks in three models. P1- 12"×12" P2- 12"×24" P3- 12"×36" Hole sizes and orientation are your choice. Custom sizes are also available. Check more of our work out at Bull Basin Woodworks on facebook. https://plus.google.com/photos/114325437673381945156/albums/6133194056990684689 https://plus.google.com/photos/114325437673381945156/albums/6133194056990684689

Okay, I've been poking around the site now for a while and have learned a ton, but I also have lots of questions. Like... Should I be using a stitching awl or stitching chisel? Until now, I've been using one of several chisels (6, 2 and 1 points) I got from Tandy on everything I do. I've been using my awl (I got from Tandy) just to widen holes as I stitch so I can pass two needles through at the same time. It pointed, but far from sharp like what I hear about Bob Douglas awls. What am I missing here? When should I be using an awl or the chisel. Getting Stitching Holes to Line Up? What's the trick here? I think I've experimented every which way and cant say I've found the "right" way yet. If I punch holes first, they're less likely to lineup perfectly. But If I glue first, then punch holes, I have to go back over it with the dye again. Using the groover make it even more complicated and difficult to get things lined up. Should I always use a groover? I understand the groovers are used to recess and protect stitching lines. I've been doing it on EVERYTHING regardless of how it will be used because I thought 'that's just how its done'. After reading through the forums, I'm not so sure. Should I stop using the groover? Why/when should I use an overstitch wheel? I've been using it to layout holes around corners and curves. Should I be using it for something else? If it helps... I primarily have been working with leather weights between 3oz and 9oz to make variety of large and small cases/bags, iPad sleeves, and wallets. I've been stitching everything hand using Tandy needles and what I think is 4oz waxed nylon thread. Any help and suggestions you can offer are appreciated. Thanks. - Odin

hi guys, for a while i have been looking for a nice set of alphabet stamps for leatherwork. most of the sets i have seen are very huge (3/4" is smallest i have seen) and frankly pretty ugly; the font types are terrible. the other day i came across these stamps on etsy: https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/164192944/canterbury-uppercase-alphabet-kit-6-mm they are not designed for leather but rather for stamping some softer metals. just wondering if anyone has tried them on leather before? no doubt they will leave an impression/mark but just want to know if the results were considered 'satisfactory' by someone else who may have tried already. thanks a lot, braden

I like to make little pouches for my small tools that come in sets. They come in little boxes, but I just don't like them, and making tool pouches gives me a chance to practice designing, and working on the skills I need to make things that need to be a little more polished.

I have a Typical Type: GC6505 industrial cylinder post sewing machine , 10 or so different leathers, some tools, hardware, and other miscellaneous items. Ask me for more details. $1850 or best offer

This is my first post on here as well as my first foray into leatherworking. A couple of weekends ago my daughter talked the wife and I into going to the Maryland Renaissance Faire with her. She likes to get dress in either period or fantasy costume on these expeditions and was resplendent as a "Tavern Wench" except that she had nowhere to hide/stash her modern necessities; cash, ID, smartphone, etc. Her mother ended up play the part of "pack mule" for the day. We had intended to pick up a small leather belt pouch or a possibles bag but were shocked at the prices being demanded. Being what I consider to be a fairly handy gent and loving father, I decided that I would make her a belt pouch before she headed out on her next grand adventure. With these thoughts in mind, I dug out the very small and basic (5 stamps & a wooden mallet) leather tools set that I've had floating around the shop for years and then proceeded to scour the inter-webs for ideas, tutorials, patterns, and plans! I found a boat-load of stuff! Besides realizing that I would eventually need a lot more in the way of tools, I found out that nearly everything is laced, stitched, or sewn and unless I was willing to plop a ton of cash down on the barrelhead up front for a machine, I'd be doing a lot of hand sewing. I looked at purchasing a stitching pony, but found that for nearly $100 + S/H, I could probably build one from the extensive scrap pile in the garage. So with an image plucked from the inter-webs... I headed out into the shop to see how high I could successfully stack sawdust! Digging through the scrap heap, I found I had all of the bits (in white oak) necessary to create my very own stitching clamp. Nearly all of the pieces were already sized too. The first piece I found was perfect for the seat board; 3/4" x 6" x 20". I drilled a 1/4" through hole with a 5/8" diameter x 3/8" deep counter bore to accept a 1/4-20 x 4" carriage bolt that the swivel block would ride on. The edges were eased with a 1/4" radius bit in a palm router. I thought about tapering the seating area but decided against it when I realized I need to get a new resaw blade for my bandsaw. I then went back to the scrap heap and found two pieces that were 3/4" x 3 1/2" wide. One piece was 18 1/2" and the other was 19". I glued a 2" x 3 1/2" piece to one end of each leg to build up the jaws of the clamp. Once the glue had dried, I cut the jaws at a 45° angle. I then formed up the swivel block by laminating three pieces of 3/4" x 2 1/4" x 3 1/2", gluing and pinning them together. When the glue dried, I sanded everything square and then glued and pinned the base of the hinged leg to the swivel block. I mitered the outside top edge of the leg base to accommodate the hinge barrels. Everything is held in place by the swivel block carriage bolt, a 1 1/4" fender washer, and a 1/4-20 wing nut. I attached both legs of the clamp to the swivel block. I glued and pinned the stationary leg to the block and then attached the hinged leg using two 3/4" x 1" hinges. I cut the end of the hinged leg at 3° to allow additional pressure to be applied at the jaws then mitered the lower outside edge of the leg at 45° to allow for the hinge barrels. Since I forgot to drill the tension bolt holes before I attached the clamp legs, I drilled a 1/4" through hole in the hinged leg then uses a transfer punch to mark where the hole would be on the stationary leg. I drilled a 1/16" pilot hole through the stationary leg to align the counter bore that accepts the 1/4-20 x 4" carriage bolt used to apply tension to the jaws. I then went back and elongated the hinged leg hole to make fully opening the hinge side easier. To ensure that the bolts don't end up spinning in their respective holes while trying to tighten things up, I epoxied the bolt heads into their counter bores with a little JB Weld. This is how things stood before I added a layer of leather (5/6 oz I think) to the jaw faces, to protect my future work pieces. If you've read this far down, I thank you for your diligence and patience. Please let me know what you think and suggest an improvements your experience tells you I should make. Thanks. R/Derby (Topsnipe)

I'd like to invest in a strap cutter, but the only one I can find is the Tandy draw gauge. Which, strikes me as a an incredibly good way to cut my hand on the blade. Then I found this video : If you skip to the 1:45 mark, you can see the worker using a palm held device to cut strips. What is that tool, and where could I get one? I'd like to hear from more experienced posters on the preferred way to cut strips efficiently. Right now I'm using a ruler and it's not entirely consistent.