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Shearling Coats vs. Faux Shearling What Sets Them Apart?
erdem posted a blog entry in The Leather Tanning Process
The difference between shearling coats and faux shearling must be understood. Genuine shearling coats are made of 100% genuine lamb or sheep hide keeping the wool intact, which is warmth, breathable, and durable. It is naturally insulating, lightweight enough to keep you warm even through really bitter winters. Faux shearling is a synthetic material that is meant to be evocative of real shearling. Although it is much cheaper and animal-friendly, faux shearling will never last as long nor perform as well in thermal efficiency as shearling does. Faux alternatives will compress or lose their plush texture over time, while authentic shearling just gets softer with age. For those who consider sustainability and longevity on the part of the material, actual shearling is the very best choice. Though for the rest, faux shearling could wear within a short period as a fashion statement without breaking the bank. What Makes Shearling Coats the Most Preferred? Shearling coats have come to denote pure luxury, warmth, and classic style, making them a top choice for winter wear. The jackets will keep you warm without putting on additional weight because there is natural wool lining inside that traps the heat while allowing breathability. Unlike synthetic materials, shearling will adjust to your body's temperature and be at maximum comfort. Another reason why these are so preferred by so many is their durability. A quality shearling coat is something that can be taken care of and will last you for decades, becoming a fantastic heirloom piece in your wardrobe. Apart from function, they're versatile when it comes to aesthetics, readily complementing casual and formal outfits, sort of taking the outfit to the next level. -
Hi everyone, I’ve been doing this craft for over three years now, so I’m still a bairn compared to many of you. However, since the beginning of 2024, I’ve taken it more seriously. Aside from tools, I no longer import leather or hardware to avoid the extra 20%+ fees. Here in the UK, things have changed a lot since Brexit. Prices have skyrocketed on nearly everything, and import taxes are just extortionate. For example, I bought a press from Tandy (based in Spain) a couple of months ago—it was on sale for about £200, but FedEx delivered it with an additional £65 charge! I couldn’t believe it. There are a few UK-based online shops (which I won’t name) that source tools and threads from the EU and the States, but they end up costing more than if I bought directly from those countries, even with import taxes. Thankfully, there are still some good suppliers here in the UK for leather and tools, like Metropolitan, George Barnsley, J Wood Leathers, Abbey England, and Le Prevo. Of course, there are also A&A Crack and Sedgwick, which offer some of the finest leathers in the UK, though their prices are a bit out of reach for me at the moment. Lately, I’ve been checking out other makers’ shops in France and Spain. I noticed they use some really unique rivets—chunky, embossed ones that aren’t laser-burned, as well as D-rings with snake designs and embossed buttons. I haven’t seen anything like that here in the UK, apart from a few on Etsy from Asian shops, but they go for £3-5 each. If anyone has a list of trusted suppliers for leather, hardware, and threads (excluding tools), I’d really appreciate it. Here’s what I’m looking for: High-quality solid brass and nickel hardware Veg tan, waxed leather, and quality chrome leathers Tiger thread or similar Thanks in advance, God bless
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Hello, I’m looking for some recommendations on a plastic stiffener for a canvas and leather tool bag I’m making. I see Milwaukee has an open top tool bag with stiff sides. It has a plastic wall sandwiched with canvas fabric. The plastic is stiff yet can be sewn through. I imagine it is 1/8” or slightly less. I read somewhere about HDPE can be sewn through but there are many types of HDPE. Does anyone have experience with this? I’m going to call TAP plastics tomorrow and see if they know of a product. I’ll be sewing this with my industrial walking foot machine with Tex138. Thanks for any help! - Jon
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hi folks! First time posting here, hopefully I'm not stepping on anyone's toes...Last weekend I brought home "Pfaff 145-1B H2L" leather sewing material and been googling info on it. Found this forum and theres PRICELESS information here. However I learnt its basically spread on different messages / threads so I started this "All things Pfaff 145" thread to collect everything I've found on one place. To help newbies like myself and also collect all the important data on one place. Pfaff 145 Manual in english: http://www.pfaff.com/SiteMedia/PFAFF/Products/Machines/Support-manuals/pfaff_145-manual-EN.PDF Pfaff 145 & 545 Parts book http://www.industrialsewingmachineparts.co.uk/pfaff_145_545_partslist.pdf Here's what I've learnt from classification so far: H1 & H2 7mm under foot H3 11mm under foot H4 14mm under foot Needles: 134 (H1&H2), 134-35 (H3) and 190 (H4) A: light materials, B: medium, C: medium heavy D: heavy L: leather N: 6 mm stitch length -
What Exactly is an EPS? Cobra Steve, Leather Machine Co., explains what an EPS (Electronic Positioning System) is, and how it can help you do a better job sewing leather. Be sure to watch the video too! -
Hello, I've been looking for alum tawed sheepskin or goatskin for a couple years now, with no sucess. I've found several listings with different suppliers, but all of them have been out of stock. I am an individual in the UK, but am willing to order from abroad if neccesary. I have some projects I've wanted to do for half a decade now, so it would be really really nice to finally acutally consider them. Additionally, does anyone know why everyone with a listing for alum tawed ovine leather across three continents has been out of stock the past few years? My thanks for any leads that anyone can provide. ~Ages
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Hello! I'm new to leathermaking. I have no tools, no leather, or anything. I would like to dive into this hobby. I know that might be pricy, but I'm not too worried about it. I would like to know what to make first, how to practice, what tools to buy, and really just everything I should know! I would appreciate any help.
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We have an entire studio/workshop of beautiful custom made leather, high end hardware sourced from Buckle Guy and lots of tools and supplies. We made handcrafted leather and waxed canvas bags and accessories and built a brand that people loved. We are located in Fresno, California. We closed up shop a couple years ago and we still have tons of raw materials. We have kept it all in our insulated and temperature controlled garage for the last couple years. I have been trying to sell everything, and I’ve had some success at selling some stuff but there is still so much left. I need it gone! I don’t want to keep paying to store it and I’m willing to let it go to whoever makes me the best offer. I can’t bear the thought of tossing it all in the trash. We have $22,000 in leather, $6,000 waxed canvas, $5,000 hardware, $5,000 tools, machines and studio supplies. I would love to get $15,000 for ALL of it but I am open to all offers! I built a website to show everything that we have available https://www.leatherandcanvasbusinessforsale.com/ Please reach out with any questions.
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Just got back from a trip to Korea. On a day outing in Seoul, we managed to find the neighborhood in the city where leatherwork supplies can be found. It's located on the Western edge of the city, in the neighborhood of Sinseol-dong. Go east of downtown to the Great East Gate (Dongdaemun), where there is a subway stop by the same name. The subway line (line 1) going East from there stops at Dongmyo, and then the stop you want is Sinseol-dong. You can also take a spur of line 2 (the Green line) which terminates at Sinseol-dong. From Sinseol-dong station you need to go up to street level and east to the large intersection, where Choui-ro (east-west) meets Nangye-ro (running north-south). Look at the map below -- follow Nangye-ro SOUTH from the intersection, on the WEST side of the street until you see the smaller road Nangye-ro 27-gil crossing the main street east to west. (You could also get a taxi-driver to drive you to that intersection; as of September 2017 I estimate the taxi fare from the center of Seoul (Seoul station or the downtown palaces) to get here as 4,000 to 10,000 won depending on traffic.) Now you need to turn right and go to the WEST, following Nangye-ro 27-gil. it's not much of a road, more like a wide alley, but don't be fooled. Look at the Google maps road view below -- this is looking NORTH WEST from the intersection of Nangye-ro and Nangye-ro 27-gil. See that blue street sign in the center of the picture? That's what you are looking for. After maybe 50-100 meters you should find the store fronts that sell the stuff you want. Here is a picture of the first one along the line, looking back towards the intersection you just left. It's the small store to the center right, with the silver car in front of it. This first store you see here is full of rivets, decorative and functional. Some map applications in Korea (for smart phones or computers) can use the phone number to locate the store on a map, and the phone number of this shop is 031-528-1626. The other stores start west of this one. Google Maps streetview won't go down there, however. In my 15 minutes of looking I saw at least 3 stores FULL of rivets, grommets, etc. (HUGE bags of them, as well as small ones). One store had nothing but thread, thread, thread and more thread. Leather, buckles, tools, oh my! One store had paint, more sizes of hole punches than I knew existed, needles, thread, templates, and 3 different kinds of stitching ponies (I bought one for 20,000 won). I didn't go very far down the row, but I believe that skivers (big and small) and hides (including tooling) and elec I saw very few stamping and tooling supplies. Lots of leather and hardware, thread and coloring, for bags, clothing, and the like. (skivers, head knives, needles, strap end templates and punches, stitching chisels, etc.
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Hello my name is Brent was wondering if someone could make custom sheath folder for a knife I had made. The main folder that holds the knife out stingray and would also like a folder 1 inch wide and 4 inches length made out of toad or shark leather attach them to look like one item on the right side, both in black with a metal belt clip. I will include a drawing of the knife and the pen to help with measurements. my email is hunterbrent@outllook.com Thanks, Brent
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THE LEATHER TATTOO MACHINE BY 21GRAMS LEATHER GOODS Introducing a groundbreaking innovation in leather crafting: 21Grams Leather Tattoo Machine, meticulously designed with custom cartridges crafted over years of refinement to deliver the perfect leather hit. Say goodbye to the strain of the swivel knife and hello to precision and ease. With optimal pressure and speed control, this machine empowers artisans to achieve unparalleled results, evoking the sensation of hand-drawing on leather. The astounding feedback from out customers speaks volumes about its effectiveness. **Pro Kit - $300** This kit includes a standard-size machine, charger, thin liner, thick liner, round shader, small smooth shader, medium smooth shader, and large smooth shader. **Cartridges/Tips - $25 each or $150 for a 6-pack set** Get consistent performance with our premium cartridges and tips. http://21gramsleathergoods.com/product/leather-tattoo-machine-kit/
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Hi Everyone, not long ago I got a sample of Alan Sully goat leather, one in 3 ounce and one and 2 1/2 ounce. I was thinking I’d like to make a medium sized bag with these using reinforcement and was thinking of using Salpa. I noticed that Salpa comes in several different thicknesses including 0.5, 0.6, 0.8 mm. Does anybody have any suggestions on what thickness to use? I was thinking of getting some 0.6 mm but I wasn’t sure if this would provide enough rigidity to the bag. I hesitate with 0.8 because I don’t want it to be really thick in the end. If anybody has any suggestions and experience working with these products I would love to hear your feedback. Thank you!
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Hi, I am hoping someone can help me identify an issue with my new cobra class 26 sewing machine. I just received it on Monday and assembled it yesterday, which seemed rather straightforward. I just got the machine turned on and running this morning and am concerned about this loud sound the machine is making while in use. It seems to be coming from under the machine. I reached out to leather machine co. but am awaiting a response. I was hoping someone in the meantime could offer any insight. Please check out the videos. Thank you! IMG_3123 (4).mov
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I’m getting ready to start making belts. I have looked at numerous leathers still have not found exactly what I’m looking for. Money is not as much of a concern as quality. I want a single ply belt in the 9 ounce range that is super smooth on the back, scratch resistant, and won’t crack when bent. What leather do you use? I tried splenda BOM leather; it was everything I wanted except for the fact that it cracked when bent. I feel like there has to be something that meets these qualities.
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custom designed and made by QueenBee1755© QueenBee1755
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made and beaded by QueenBee1755© QueenBee1755
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deer hide brain tanned by QueenBee1755, purse made and beaded by QueenBee1755© QueenBee1755
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made by QueenBee1755© QueenBee1755
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custom designed and made QueenBee1755© QueenBee1755
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Great quality veg tan belt blanks for a steal! 1.5 inch width. ~55 inches long. 8-9 oz Asking $60 for 10. sell one belt and the lot pays for itself If you want more message me and I can cut a deal. I have a lot available Smooth black grain with no blemishes. The underside has no loose grain and is finished brown I’ve made a listing on my site here to keep things all in one place https://laszlosleather.shop/products/1-5in-belt-blanks-10x
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Hello leatherworking enthusiasts! My name is François, I'm 34 years old, originally from Belgium, now based in Lyon, France. My atypical career path has taken me from the benches of biotechnology to the bench of leather craftsmanship, where I strive to marry tradition with innovation. My adventure into the world of leather goods is as singular as the pieces I create. With a degree in biotechnology, I bring scientific precision to my craftsmanship, fusing intellect with creativity. My academic career is a testament to the successful fusion of science and art.My field of expertise extends far beyond traditional leatherwork. From ancient forging to cutlery and jewelry design, I navigate with ease through a variety of disciplines. My portfolio even includes work in the unconventional field of BDSM manufacture, illustrating my willingness to explore the boundaries of my craft.In addition to my studio, I'm also involved as a cultural mediator and journalist. My involvement with the media outlet UAP Check, specializing in unidentified aerial phenomena, geostrategy and scientific innovation, demonstrates my commitment to exploring the unknown. As a journalist, I offer a unique perspective, interweaving elements of history, anthropology and AI to deepen my analyses.As an avowed geek, I find joy in a multitude of hobbies, from history and literature to new technologies and video games. My involvement in martial arts and historical re-enactment further underscores my varied interests, creating a rich canvas that feeds and enriches my artistic creations. In my hands, leather transcends its utilitarian function to become a canvas for artistic expression. My journey from biotechnologist to craftsman illustrates the infinite possibilities that emerge when intellect meets craft. By constantly pushing the boundaries of traditional leatherworking, I remain a shining example of the harmony between science, history and innovation in the world of creative craftsmanship.
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hello everyone; I am breaking my head on : HOW TO CARVE INTO WHITE LEATHER? I want to make a handbag which is black and white. The bag shall be white. I can either use soft white leather which has a good finish already on it no not get dirty and then sew carved parts on it. or there is a option of white vegetable leather, where i could carve in it. But it will get for sure very easy dirty with not enough protection. Your advice?? thank you, lg Teresa
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‘Hi all, Im new to this blog and leather sewing in general, bought my first industrial sewing machine few month ago Seiko STH-8BLD-3 very pleased with it, then about month ago bought Durkopp 541 post bed and now looking for cylinder bed machine, I don't do heavy leather its mostly for upholstery and small items but I find my self more relaxed while sewing stuff, I enjoy finding new information and this blog coming up often on google searches for what ever I’m looking for to solve. Thank you all for your input and problem solving guides, I am hoping to also share my experience with you all and hope that someone might learn something from my mistakes.
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I dyed one of my best saddles with fiebings pro dye dark brown, and it turned almost black. I’m so sad and it looks hideous. Is there any way to lighten, bleach it or take the dye out? I would love to save it ❤️❤️❤️
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Hello, i would like to know the origin of the leather used for the bag in the picture. Mabe pig?
