Wizcrafts

Your machine, just like the small bobbin Singer and Adler patchers, was not built to sew with #207 thread. You can force it to, but it won't be a good result. I would seriously limit it to #138 on top with #92 in the bobbin.

You made the mistake of buying round point cloth needles. You need some configuration of leather point to sew leather. FYI: System 135x17 are for cloth, webbing, Velcro and vinyl. System 135x16 are leather points. They come in various shapes, like chisel, diamond, triangle, right twist, left twist and S.

Thank you.

The maximum (Metric) stitch length for these machines is 5mm, but only into about 3 mm thickness. In order to hide the knots with #135 thread you should have at least 3mm thickness. You can test your machine for wear that shortens the stitch length by raising the foot with the hand lift lever. Lower the stitch length regulator all the way down to the top of the foot and tighten the screw on it. Now push and pull on the foot to see how much it moves forward and backward. Anything more than the slightest wiggle translates into lost maximum stitch length. When this happens you will have a choice of replacing the feed motion cam that moves the foot, or welding/brazing/reshaping the worn out "puck" shaped tab that slides inside the hollowed out ring under the head. I find it simpler to replace the worn parts to regain lost stitch length.

There was a discussion about the Singer 172k glove sewing machine on Leatherworker.net in 2017.

Here is a link to a PDF of the Singer 172k1 manual.

It looks like you may be using a thread too big for the needle size. I can see knots on the bottom. Try a larger size needle. The top tension may be too loose, or the bobbin tension too tight. Also, the stitches are very close together. I would lower the stitch length regulator tab closer to the foot to get longer stitches. Buy some new needles that better match the size of thread you have. Here is a thread/needle chart to help you choose the best match. Your machine uses either System 29x4 or 135x16 leather point needles. They are basically the same needle now, but used to be different long ago. There are non-leather needles for this machine, in case you want to sew cloth or webbing. They are System 29x3 and 135x17. Do not use these on leather if you can avoid it. They will stick after a few stitches and cause a bad looking result.

I moved this topic from Help Wanted where every reply would have to wait for approval to appear.

No. There are none brand new in that price range that are good quality sewing machines. You need to up your budget to about $1200 to $1500 to get a half decent leather sewing machine that is setup, adjusted and ready to sew. Then you'll have to pay shipping unless you can pick it up from the dealer. Machines in this price range are really upholstery class machines. Two that come to mind are the Consew P1206RB and the next higher up Consew 206RB-5. These machines can sew up to 3/8 inch of compressible materials, or maybe 16 to 20 ounces of veg-tan leather. The next step up would be a heavy duty customized cylinder arm Cobra Model 26, or a holster sewing machine, like this Cowboy CB3200. These machines are specifically setup to sew up to almost 1/2 inch of leather. Machines get larger and prices get higher as you move up into the harness/saddlery quality leather sewing machines like the Cowboy CB4500, Cobra Class 4 and Techsew 5100.

Not only is it drop feed only, it is also a self oiler with a sump pump sucking up oil from the oil pan. These machine are meant to spin very fast. Leather usually needs to be sewn slowly (< 10 to 15 stitches per second) to avoid overheating the needle and burning the thread. This machine isn't made with that in mind. The oil won't get distributed to the extremities unless you sew at about 40 stitches per second.

You might find some at Weaver Leather (an advertiser here). They sold the Adler 205-370 until it was discontinued a couple of years ago. If anybody has spacers left they should. You will have to call or email them to get the correct spacer for the needle size you want to use.

YES! You can buy small 375 yard spools of bonded nylon thread, in a bunch of colors, all in size 69, from Wawak. They also sell scissors, thread snips, zippers and tailoring supplies. You can get 8 ounce spools of bonded thread from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. They may have smaller spools too.

You can learn to sew like this too! There are videos. I watched one earlier on the Makers Leather Supply website. He sells plastic templates for Gunfighter stitching, wallets, journals, etc. Your Model 26 can handle #207 bonded thread, which is what I used on these belts. You really got a nice machine. I wish you much success with it. If you haven't already done so, buy all available accessories and outside left and right toe feet.

If you buy them from one of our advertisers who sell sew leather machines, you will get the right bobbins with thread holes that are also used to secure the bobbins for winding them on the built in winder on the machine.

Lol, exactly. I have operated a Rex dual feed walking foot machine, with really aggressive teeth. Man, that thing wouldn't budge from its stitch length setting. It almost clawed the work out of my hands. In contrast, my slew of walking foot machines, including my CB4500, all let me feather the needle hole position if I want to. This can really come in handy when you are sewing Gunfighter fishtail stitches onto a gunbelt.

I have an equivalent machine, a Techsew 2700. Both are clones of the Singer 153 series walking foot cylinder arm machines. When I needed a replacement needle bar, I called Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. Bob Kovar advised me that these machines all use the same needle bar as the Singer 153. I ordered one from him and it fit perfectly. I had no issue with an off center needle hole. Yours must be the luck of the draw.

Kenneth; A smooth feed dog doesn't mark the bottom layer like the ones with teeth do. Normally this is not an issue. However, if both sides of a project must look as good as possible, the smooth feed dog is a bonus that saves time rubbing out tooth marks. I have a smooth feed dog on my Cowboy stitcher. If you're wondering about a loss of grip, you are right. Because the feed dog is smooth, as are the feet, I can cheat the stitch length at will to reach marked points or corners. Teeth would make it harder to do this.

I've never heard of that dealer before. Can you post links to the machines they are selling that you are interested in? That asked, any upholstery class sewing machine can also be a leather sewing machine. A lot of upholstery is done with 4 ounce leather. That comes to 8 ounce seams and more when doubled down and felled. One main difference is that leather is supposed to be sewn with a leather point needle. Another is that with the exception of upholstery and garment/chrome tan leathers, one should use a machine with smooth feet. Vinyl and cloth sewing machines with dual feed have teeth on the feet to pull the material through. They will permanently mark veg tan leather. This brings us to a third difference. Upholstery walking foot machines not meant for veg-tan leather can be dual, top and bottom feed, with teeth on the feet. Walking foot machines meant for veg-tan are usually triple, or compound feed, with smooth bottom feet and needle feed. The work can slip a little in compound feed, which can be used to one's advantage to force stitches to reach a certain point, other stitch hole, or corner. Dual feed machines are harder to cheat stitch length on. So, as the dealer what kind of walking foot machine is A and what is B. If you plan to sew veg-tan leather, get a compound feed walking foot machine.

This thread is for hand sewing, not machine sewing. Machines require a twisted thread, with left, or Z twist being the most common for single needle machines. Their hooks travel clockwise relative to the scarf side of the needle. If you try sewing on these machines with right twist, or no twist thread, it will unravel. Furthermore, waxed thread should not be used in a standard closed eye needle machine. It will gum up the eye! Waxed thread should either be hand sewn or machine sewn on a barbed needle and awl machine (e.g., Campbell/Randall Lockstitch, Union Lockstitch, Landis 3).

I don't know of any Tex 500 thread. The closest is v415, also known as Tex 400, or Government 6 cord linen. This size thread requires a Singer #27, or Metric #250 needle (2.5mm). My Cowboy CB4500 is rated for this size needle and thread. Other machines able to handle #415 thread are the Cobra Class 4, Techsew 5100, Juki TSC-441, Adler 205-370, Adler 969 ECO, Union Lockstitch, Campbell-Randall Lockstitch, Landis 1 and 3, Number 9 Machine, Luberto Classic and some Artisan and Ferdinand Bull machines. Shoe sole stitches can also handle #415 thread. Think Landis 12 and Champion dual flywheel, curved needle and awl machines. Some of these machines are obsolete, but still show up for sale now and then. There are also some other machines I didn't mention.

Another concern with patchers is the stitch length. A pristine machine is able to sew 5 stitches per inch at about 1/8 inch, maximum thickness. As the thickness increases, the stitch length decreases. At its maximum thickness, about 1/4 inch, you'll be lucky to get 7 or 8 stitches per inch. The feed is totally performed by the teeth on the bottom of the foot. The harder the leather, the more pressure you must apply to hold down the leather as the needle rises on the take-up stroke. Increased foot pressure causes more drag against the steel throat plate, further reducing the stitch length. You might have to push or pull the leather to get 5 or 6 stitches per inch on tough jobs.

Here is a picture of the tiny bobbin used by a Singer 29k71 patcher. I've compared it to a couple of US dimes. The inside clearance is about the thickness of 4 dimes, or 3/16 inch.

The machine you are referring to is probably the venerable Singer 29 series shoe and boot patcher. The photo below is my Singer 29k71. This is a patch machine in my World. It sews embroidered patches over pockets on Biker's vests and jackets. It also resews shoes when the thread lets go around the toe box and vamp. It has resewn pull tabs on boots. It has sewn purse straps back in between the lining and outside layer on the narrow sides where no other sewing machine can go. One of the most unusual jobs I put it to work on was sewing around the top and bottom of hand made leather dice cups. I use it to sew long seams up the arm which it does well due to the 360 degree rotating presser foot. One thing I never do with my patchers is sew belts, holsters, sheathes, or any other long or thick items. I have other machines that are built for those things. This machine is not for production. It is for repairs. The bobbins this model uses are just under the diameter of a US dime (~5/8") and hold 3/16" of thread. If you load it with #69 bonded thread, it will sew quite a few small projects. But, if you load it with #138 thread, it will only sew about one long dress belt.

Here is a copy of the manual for the Singer 211G155 and 156. Singer_211G155,_G156.pdf

Make sure that the two spring loaded screws that hold the shuttle assembly onto the end of the arm have about 1 full turn of slack. If they are tightened all the way down the shuttle can squeeze the needle and thread. You need enough clearance for the thread and needle to go around the shuttle without binding. Those little coil spring on the screws allow it to float a bit. Remove your leather and top thread, then slowly run the machine while watching the needle and shuttle interact. Does the shuttle hook hit the needle, or squeeze it against the shuttle ring? If so, back off the screws another half turn. Check for a bent needle! Next, verify that you are using the proper needle size for the thread combination you're using. Consult this needle and thread chart.