JLSleather

This is good looking stuff, George. As a self-professed pig, I can tell you that this year, you are the only person I have recommended (other than myself or this chubby girl here). Don't know if they purchased or not, but I did send people to view your holsters when I couldn't get to them here. We like your look. That said, I would'a liked to see the brown model colored on the inside (and inside the belt loop) like the other. Personal preference is all. I like the way your reinforcement piece not only allows the stitched channel but ties together like it belongs there (doesn't look like an "add-on"). One question, if you don't mind (no offense taken if you'd rather skip it). Why the retention screw? Customer request, or standard for the gun model? Oh, you might shave. Your avatar changed.

Yeah, s'pose it's just the signs o' the times. Usedta be, feller got old enough he went to work. Even if he didn't 'feel like it'. Nowadays, everybody is 'marketing' and 'networking'. All of it seems a bit "sensitive" to me. Fella I never seen asked me at the saloon one night -- Hey, ya gotta dollar? to which I replied "yes, yes I do. Know why? Cuz I got a JOB". and then left him standin' there alone. My Dad worked. I worked. My boys will work. Anybody wanna ask me what I think YOU should do?

Apparently, I'm the dissenting opinion on RJF. Only ordered once, and if this is what they ship - then I wouldn't do it again. Open the package and it didn't look bad, but start to cut it and there's another story. I don't want to go through all that sending it back. I don't want to do a bunch of 'discussing' about it. Not a high-dollar order, so just gonna call that a relatively inexpensive lesson.

The 17 (and assoc) and the 19 (and assoc) are the SAME gun, except the barrel length. As far as molding holsters, the only effective difference is that the 17 is 1/2" longer on the barrel end. A holster molded with the 17 will "snap in" a 19 just fine - just that the 19 will set back 1/2" from the business end...

Swing arm clicker press? ? ?

In case nobody else does, I for one appreciate your integrity. You want to give a good product at a fair price - which is commendable. These days, it's "popular" to jack up the price of basically anything (including 'poo'). Then, instead of actually IMPROVING the product, or maybe PRACTICING the craft, you just get on facsbook or tweetie and spend the time you SHOULD have been perfecting with trying to convince people that poo is wonderful, and your poo is better than someone else's poo, and everybody should buy this poo! After all, my poo COSTS MORE, so it MUST be "better" poo! So, for everyone who actually wants to make a QUALITY product - one worth buying - thank you.

No chubby girl fingerprints on this one (which is good). This pattern is older than we are, and been layin around the shop forever. Finally couldn't take it any more and had to make one, just cuz it was there. No order for this rig, and in fact don't even have the gun to fit it with Oh, that would be the 6" Colt Python. Still, that was kinda fun.

Middle one. Just a color preference, really, though I admit I've never been big on conchos and "spots" (looks a little 'sensitive' to me). Still, nice lookin' rigs

Well, it sounds like a 'non-answer', but the length for the initials would depend on the initials. I generally add 6" to the "tip" end past the "middle" hole. In the book you mentioned, Al suggests this for when using two 'keepers' - I just do it all the time. Also, I add 3.5" on the buckle end past the fold (generally) and use 3 snaps, regardless of how many 'loops'. Makes for pretty simple math -- you need a strap 10" longer than the "size". Now, since you already have that book, then you already know that the buckle length can throw most of that out the window.

Talk about stickin' a foot in yer mouth. On the phone with that gal from the leather store - on about rifle slings. Somewhere in there orderin' stuff, I said that some people want the sling stitched at the ends an some foks jus wanna screw. Uhh... ya know .. . that aint nuthin like what I was tryina say .....

Those your pics? Just wondered if that was yours posted over there at custommade.com ? Google found them pretty quick... http://www.custommade.com/holstersheath-combo/by/alamocustomleather/ http://www.custommade.com/holstersheath-combo-2/by/alamocustomleather/

The problem will be that if you grind enough off the round side to form the diamond shape, it will then be off center on the handle and all of your holes will miss the mark -- like misaligned sights on a gun. Yes, that's a joke. Point is, it's just not that critical.

Been a while since i used the W/C, but the carving leather - my opinion - is a bit 'stiffer' than HO. Either can be softened a bit, but I LIKE the firmness. But, I also like Royal Meadow (about the only thing they carry that I will actually use). I buy most of my 3/4 in this. But, I recently ordered some leather from rjfleather.com that has a similar texture and feel. I haven't carved any as yet, so can't really say if it tools the same. Same feel, though... they have an ad at the top of this site.

For weapons that small, you might check over at the blue gun store. I'm sure they are available other places, too. This style (that loops back) would be a bit hard to accidentally "yank" off of the belt. This would be a concern for me if grabbing a gun that light in a hurry -- some of those little safety-pin looking spring clips can come right off, leaving you holding a holstered gun. And, since you seem to like the trigger covered, that might be bad in a rush situation ... say like two guys running at you with ball bats -- just ferinstance http://bluegunstore.com/metal-holster-clip---lot-of-12---clip6-07-1-1-1.aspx If, on the other hand, these holsters are for wearing at the range, maybe doesn't matter which clip ...

If the TOP thread is "tight" without any pressure on the top tensioning, that sounds like an issue with your BOBBIN tension (pulling the top down hard). Increasing the top tension should LOOSEN the top thread. Ahh.. maybe I'm misunderstanding your issue...

Anybody got some pictures of TOOLED or FORMED leather from RJF? I just received my first order from there this morning. Leather isn't bad looking, and feels fairly firm. Haven't cut into it as yet, so can't speak for the tooling / forming. These are shoulders, so you might expect more wrinkles than in a back or a bend. I ordered 8/9, 6/7, and 3/4, as a 'test' order. The color was a bit darker than I prefer, but I can live with it (I really like that stark contrast in color, as in the pic attached - which was done in HO leather). Still, for the price, this is all usable leather. No significant scars or brands, no holes, the weights are right (this seems like a no-brainer, but I have received hides from other places that was 'okay' leather, but thicker or thinner than what was stated) The back side is clean and smooth (though I'll reserve comments on density until I actually cut / carve it). The ads at the top of this site reflect a price other than the one I was quoted. Perhaps those ads are old? No minimum order I'm aware of.

I'd re-do the edge with the welt. Holster looks good, and the rest of the edges make that one really not look so wonderful. Re-work that edge, and ya got a nuther good lookin' rig.

So, what was the speed recommended?

That does look like no tension at all. This can be caused in any number of ways (or combinations of ways). Someone can likely help you, but it will be a big plus if you state the model of the machine you're using - and long as you're at it perhaps the thread and needle sizes.

I just ordered some RJF in different weights. Never used it before, and haven't got the order in yet. Think it's from Thoroughbred. I have used a good bit of HO. 6 months ago I would have said it tools and colors well, holds shape, pretty clean. But in that last few months, I've got some HO hides (both "A" and "B") which were WAY less than wonderful. In fact, not even acceptable. Some of it I shipped back. I can live with a blemish. If the leather tools and dyes, I don't mind choppin off a rough spot (long as it isn't across the middle). The W&C, which I haven't ordered in a couple of years but am thinking about going back to, was always "tighter" (grain AND flesh sides). It tools and forms a little harder than the HO, but once shaped it stays that way. And yes, they'll split it to the weight you want. HO runs $7.22 at HO $8.32 at Goliger, and $8.99 at SLC (wholesale pricing). THat's for 7/8 sides. Backs or bends would be higher at any of those places by a little more than $1/ft. RJF has backs from 3/4 to 9/10 at $8.00, bends are $8.90. Those prices just quoted last week, so if the leather is good then they certainly win in the pricing category. Price, as you know, isn't everything. Sides at W/C are $8.05/ft (top grade), $9.15 for backs. Doin' a little math, figure a 26' side = $209, and cut the belly off you got 20' back = $182. So, if the belly for $25 is worth it to you, might just go on get the side. W/C states currently they are a bit backed up.

I thought the grip looked a bit Ruger-ish, but with all the mods these days it's just guesswork without seein more.

I LIKE it. But then, I've long been a fan of that natural look. What's the hog leg .. kaint rightly identify it inside there. Holster goes nicely with the shootin' irn color

Why yes - yes it is (manila). This was a fluke. Usually I fold on the CENTER line, and then most auto's will crease (bend) right on the outside lines.(the slide on that .45 is .984, the slide on the glock 17 is about .986, the full-size M&P -- well, ya know - all bets are off with the M&P )

Welcome, fellas. I took a pic now that the color is dry - I mean seriously, you did't think I would post a sketch I hadn't tried out for fit? $$!@#$R@!#!# No finish on it, though .. just a 'fit tester'... Oh, the pencil stitch line is the INSIDE stitch row (closest to the weapon). The second row of stitching is a presser foot away from the first. So, just enough pic so you can see about how deep this sits in the leather, make any adjustments you like (some fellas like it set back a little further on the "business" end). This is the Springfield "1911A1" blue gun.

Typing error in my post. That should have said for a couple $1k .. as in for $2-grand, you'd think we could print a manual ... or at least have a .pdf that's legible.