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Northmount

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Everything posted by Northmount

  1. A photo or two and the purse name and style might help us provide some more assistance. Do you have access to a photos of the finished purse from the vendor? Tom
  2. Available 1963 and earlier for both the log letter craftaid and the wallet interior. May have been available for a few years after as well. The log letters were one of my favourites. Tom
  3. Here is their FB page https://www.facebook.com/Oaksonauthentic/ Tom
  4. Hidepounder's (Bob Park) booklet, western floral designs is listed in his signature line. See this page http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/74318-bob-park-workshops/#comment-488132 Tom
  5. I have the same exact liner in my current wallet. Bought in the 60s. I may have another one or two in a bin. Been using this wallet for about 20 or more years. They are simple but good liners/interiors. Nice job, should last you another 20 or 30 years if you don't pack too many coins in it. Tom
  6. Calf skin is thinner than cowhide in general. Both are of course leather. Which do you think would be thinner and more supple, a calf, or an old cow or bull that has spent more time in the elements? If you do a search, you can find lots of threads here about watch straps. Another search that you might find interesting results for your tennis racquets would be leather wrap on steering wheels. Bound to be some similarities here. Tom
  7. I would at least grind the tip of the blade round to help reduce the risk of an accident. Really don't need that sharp point sticking up just waiting to get you! Do a little searching, there are easier ways of cutting lace from rounds that don't require expensive tools. Tom
  8. Just a quick comment about posting. Please don't keep hitting the post button. Just hit it once, then wait for the internet and server to respond. That will help to avoid multiple posts. This is especially important when you are on a slow connection, or the internet traffic is high, or the server is busy with other members. I deleted the multiple posts. Tom
  9. Please update your profile to include your location. This is a worldwide forum, so it has become even more important to identify your location so you can get help and input from people in your area, especially when looking for any one-on-one help. Tom
  10. Wow! 7 posts! Please click the post button only once and wait patiently for a moment or two for the server to respond. If it is busy, or you are on a slow connection, it takes some time to complete the database transactions. Not nearly as instant as we would like it to be some days. Welcome to the forum. you will find lots of information here and lots of helpful members. I second Fred's comment. I like spiral wraps. Tom
  11. And that is why you see broken links in many of the older posts here. People close accounts, move photos, delete photos from their account, etc. and we can no longer see what they had posted. Do us all a favour and post the pics here or create a gallery here and link to it. Tom
  12. Did you make a turn during the stitching or lift the foot? If you make a turn while the loop is forming or lift the foot too high and release the top tension, strange things happen on the backside. If the loop happened at a point like this, it could be part of your problem. Tom
  13. Northmount

    111W153

    Smaller pulley on the motor, larger wheel on the sewing machine head, speed reduction pulley set, and a servo motor are all options to help reduce speed. The combination of the speed reduction pulley set and a servo motor will get you the best low speed and power to punch through tough leather. You can do a search here and find lots of info on all of these options. Tom
  14. Do you have a shop I can visit here in Calgary? Tom
  15. Keep your finger nails trimmed and watch out for any other thing like shirt cuff buttons, rings, etc. Watch where you lay your tools down too. That will reduce a lot of your marks on damp/cased leather. When lacing, make sure the leather has dried so it doesn't pick up impressions easily. Tom
  16. If your strap cutter guide and blade are not parallel, the strap may be wedging in tight and making it hard or impossible to pull through. I recently bought a draw gauge from Tandy. It wedged the strap in so tight I couldn't pull it through at all. Took it back and ordered a good old Osborne from Bruce Johnson. Cuts the same leather like a dream. I could have done some filing and trued up the Tandy one, but figured why should I have to fix a brand new draw gauge. Tom
  17. Take a look through this thread and watch KK's video. There are a couple other Kevin King tutorials here too if you want to search for them. http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/836-wallet-binding-tutorial/?page=2 Tom
  18. Lots of work on this site with no tooling. Leatherwork covers a very wide spectrum. Good to here you are returning to leatherworking. Tom
  19. I think the real problem will be getting the piece lined up so the laser pattern will exactly follow the painted/stained pattern. Maybe mark up the platen the leather is to be placed on, do a light burn, then paint/stain and then re-position exactly where it was to do the final burn. Anyway, you will need to work closely with the laser owner/operator. You will need to have the pattern in an adequate format for the laser. Tom
  20. Hi there Stoney. I'm a few years older than you, and have no problem re-sizing my photos. It does take a little research and time to learn this stuff if you haven't been working with it before. You can do it! Suggestions have been made about using Irfanview. It is quite powerful and is good software. There are also online web services that you can use to shrink your files. For most cases, reducing the photo to about 800 x 600 pixels is quite adequate for web viewing. It also helps those members that are on the fringes of the web with low download speeds as they don't have to wait several minutes for photos to load. You can pack a lot of 800 x 600 photos into 1.46 MB. Saves a lot of server storage space too. Tom
  21. Posting links to other services where your photos are stored results in broken links and loss of photos in your posts here when photos are moved, deleted, accounts closed, etc. Much better for future viewing on this site to post them here. You can create albums here that accept larger photos, and link them into your posts here. As you peruse various threads from a couple years or more back, you will see how many links are broken. Tom
  22. Do a google search using this string "site:leatherworker.net Landis #1 machine" and you will find a number of threads with photos. Here are a few. The "site:leatherworker.net" restricts the search to leatherworker.net. http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/52194-landis-regular-lock-stitch-wax-thread-sewing-machine/ http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/6992-landis-harness-machine-foot-treadle/ http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/49113-landis-1-harness-stitcher/ http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/54504-landis-1-for-sale/ http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/50543-landis-1-stitcher/ Tom
  23. Last time he was online here was March 3. Tom
  24. Try Leightons http://www.leightons.ca/ located at Delburn AB, northeast of Red Deer if I remember right. Tom
  25. When doing new dying techniques, do some practice runs on some scrap from the same hide before you start on your nicely tooled item. Tom
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