Northmount

Many servo motors can be set to reverse the rotation direction. Use the same switch used to prgam the max speed. If you do a search here, you should be able to find the instructions that have been posted for some brands. Then you should be able to mount the servo motor using the same mounting holes, assuming yours was the standard configuration. Tom

First, check your needle to see if it is oriented correctly and threaded from the correct side. Tom

You can do the same as with hand stitching if you want. Leave tails long and thread a couple needles. Can tie and tuck. Can use super glue, but it darkens light leather. Can back-stitch at the start and at the end. The starting stitch gets trapped nicely. But the end still needs tied or glued or whatever to keep it from loosening. I pull on the bottom thread and pull the top thread through so both are on the bottom. If it will be hidden, a drop of super glue, if not, tie and use a machine needle to push the ends inside. All depends on appearance and what will be visible after. Tom

I did a search for moldy leather, got 17 results with several that don't apply, but here are 2 to look at http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=34385&hl=+moldy%20+leather#entry213634 http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=23063&hl=+moldy%20+leather#entry164878 You can find the others if you want more possibles. Hope this helps Tom

Have you tried http://www.tandyleatherfactory.ca/en-cad/search/searchresults/1241-00.aspx for Tandy's money clip? I picked up one a while ago just to see how good it was. Hard to pry apart with nothing between them. Haven't used them yet so don't know how effective they are with a couple pieces of leather between them, plus a wad of bills. Tom

My apologies! I had no intention of driving you away, but rather some pointers that could help you find more information that you are looking for. You had two replies before mine with people helping, and that is what we want to do. We also want you to do some research where it is easily within your reach. That was my intent. Again, sorry for putting you off. Tom

Hard leather may have pushed your needle bar up. Then even thin or soft leather will be a problem. Did you have a jam? Wizcraft has a number of suggestions posted for many problems, search his posts. One suggestion he gives is to loosen your needle screw, drop the needle a little, may 1/8", tighten the needle in that position and see if it sews okay. If it does, you need to reset the needle bar. Tom

You need to search this forum for the types of work and tools. This question is asked twice a day, loads of answers and assistance is being provided and has been provided by great members here. Go to the top right of the page and you will see "new content" or use this link http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=viewNewContent&search_app=forums and pick settings on the left side. 2 weeks will get you lots of threads. You will see some of the same questions or very similar questions to yours. The search function is near the top right. It can become your new best friend when you are looking for particular information. You might even get distracted with things you find that are also interesting to you. I sure do! Lots to learn here. And welcome to the addiction. Tom

Just moisten it. Doesn't need to be soaked. Takes a long time to dry if you soak it. With just moist, you can start shaping it right away and it will start to hold its shape. Really worthwhile to do a little experimentation with the same type and weight of leather you are going to use. Tom

I've ground the inside foot on the right side so I can see the needle. And use a left toe outer foot. I'm thinking about grinding a slot in the front of the inner foot instead of the side. Tom

I'd be very careful about exhausting paint or dye fumes (other than latex or water based stuff) through a fan where the motor is included in the fume path. The right concentration of inflammable fumes and a spark or hot surface and POOF. A filter will only take out droplets, not gases. So when building your own setup, or modifying something else to do the job, think about safety first. Keep the motor and any wiring outside the fume path. Tom

Here are a couple threads to take a look at. Also try out the search function. It can be your new best friend. Search for something like tools and beginner! http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=40290&st=0&p=250566&fromsearch=1entry250566 http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=42981&hl= Note also that the tools in the Tandy beginner kits are cheap and not the best quality. A lot of people are unhappy with the stamps as they are even lower grade than their regular line. Having said that, a starter kit still may be fine for you to give you a taste or what is there and some practice without spending a pile of money. Tom

Love all the old tools and the history that goes with them. Don't find many in this part of the country. Tom

Check out this thread: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=48846&hl=+thread%20+leather%20+thickness#entry309994 "Wizcrafts" is a resident expert. I follow his posts. Have learned a lot. Others to pay attention to are "Trox", "Art", "Gottaknow". I know I have missed others that provide a lot of help with sewing and machine problems; I hope they are not offended. Tom

Here are a number of threads on setting the bottom tension. The ones near the bottom of the list are probably the best ones for you. Tension is or has been a problem for lots of people. Also make sure your needle is like new. Any bend or roughness will affect your stitching. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=46269&hl=+adjust%20+bobbin%20+tension#entry292083 http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=49095&hl=+adjust%20+bobbin%20+tension#entry311633 http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=42411&st=15&hl=+bobbin%20+tension%20+scale#entry264024 http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=36040&hl=+bobbin%20+tension%20+scale#entry223003 http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=10325&hl=+bobbin%20+tension%20+scale#entry14933 Tom

Lots of problems yesterday, see http://mashable.com/2013/08/02/bluehost-down/?utm_cid=mash-com-fb-main-link and http://enduranceresponse.com/ Seemed to affect sites that aren't hosted by endurance too. Probably something to do with domain name servers being refreshed after being affected by so many sites being down. Tom

The woman was using a patcher model 29k ... Very different compared to a home singer sewing machine. For heavy thick stuff, your 145W103 is better. Really depends on how much you are going to use it and the type of work. Treadle machine can get very tiring if you are at it all day. Won't need to go to the gymn for your exercise. Tom

Just in case you haven't thought about it, keep the edge of the fibreglass far enough back from the edge of collar so you won't run into trouble burnishing the edges. Tom

There is an alternative to buying a sewing machine, especially where this is a hobby. Get the book "The Art of Hand Sewing Leather" by Al Stohlman available as a download from Tandy. Then get the sewing supplies you need and some scrap leather about the weight that you want to use and practice. Saddle stitching is preferred by many people and holds up better than machine sewing when done right. The advantage of the machine is it's faster and usually easier on the fingers (as long as you keep your fingers out of the way). There are many threads (posts) here that you can research to see how others are doing their hand stitching. Also some YouTube videos. Most of all, have some fun while you research and start sewing and making tack. Tom

You are on the right track now. I bought 1/2, 5/8, 3/4 and 1" arch punches. Sure helps on the inside curves and for thumb notches on things like a business card sleeve. For outside curves, you can use a piece of 1/2, 3/4 and 1" conduit. Sharpen the outside edge for more then 90 degrees, then cut away the extra 270 degrees to make a punch with a 90 degree tooth, for trimming outside corners. You can use conduit for punches too, just a little more difficult to sharpen evenly all the way around. Tom

Additional to Cyberthrasher, Whether you wet mold or not, glue the pieces together with a good quality cement, contact cement if you are careful and have some experience with it. Then trim the edges to match, then mark and sew. Starting with oversize pieces allows a little slippage or error here or there. When marking out for assembly, mark the middle of the folds on both pieces, then line the midpoints up when gluing them together. Helps to avoid warping of the project. Tom

Thanks Tor. Looks to be very informative. I seem to have a habit of collecting old books, both hard copy and electronic. I have to be careful or I run out of space! Tom

Fantastic, can't say anything more! Tom

Great job! all that is missing is the "ROAR" Tom

I don't make collars, so take this as a "maybe it might help idea". What about making your lined collars with a layer of a type of webbing (nylon, fiberglass, etc.) sandwiched between the layers? As lightingale mentions, sewing helps to reduce or eliminate stretching. This would go further, and maybe allow you to continue using veg tanned leather for situations where the collar is allowed to get wet and be abused. An instruction sheet / warranty with disclaimers is a good idea too. Tom