electrathon

Also, packing tape on the backside really helps with the stretching. Aaron

LOL Are you going to email it to him?

Steel whool is my suggestion. For those that are beyond saving, return them to tandy, they are guarantied.

My experience with RTC is that it adhears better to the leather than it does to itself. With two coats the top coat tends to flake off. When using RTC it is best to use one medum coat. If you try to put it on thin you will not be happy with the results. WORK FAST. Very fast. It flashes off in a very short time and once it has flashed you are done. When I have watched others use it in classes 100% of the people did not use a thick enough coat or work fast enough. I tend to splash some directly on the leather and start wiping (sheep wool). Try to smooth it out and get the bubbles to go away, long straight movement, not swirls. If you are done and it is splotchy it is because you did not use a thick enough coat. Did I mention that everyone does not use enough? I have watched people urging them to work faster and they get upset telling me they are (no they are not, they need to move faster). You have about 30 seconds ofr so from the time the finish hits the project till it flashes off. Once dry, you can then coat it with Fiebings antique, followed by tan coat. Over rubbing will rub through the RTC and you will get bad results.

The dye is a little harsh on the leather. The oil helps rejuvinate it. If you put oil on over the sealer you will not have any penitration, it would do nothing but make it oily. Drying overnight between steps is good.

You have to dye before you put on your sealer. Whoever told you to put it on after is confused.

Welcome. You are better at English then I am at Chinese. Happy you are here. Aaron

PM sent

I can't see Tyvek adding any amount of reinforcement, except stretch. It is about as rigid as wax paper. It is incredibly strong. Just try to tear the stuff. I would question if the glue will adhear, but other than that it should help with stretch.

You cut everything first. Likely does not really matter, but that is not Sheridan, it is Western Floral Aaron

The shoulder strap is usually only about 3/8" wide. The shoulder loop is a big circle. Lay it in position along the fold. Glue the interior in. When you are lacing around the perimiter just go behind the shoulder loop. There will be a 1/2" area that is unlaced holding the interior in, not enough to matter and it will hold the shoulder strap in place. I think that makes since, but I know what I mean. LOL Aaron

All you should need to do is make a should "loop" of leather. Put the loop between the leather back and interior when you assemble it.

I am a little baffled. Muted impressions and chrome filled lines are what we usually complain about. Am I understanding corectly that you want the muted impressions? I do agree it is frustrating that they are also changing the size of the tool impressions (and bigger is usually not better).

Your shop looks like a very happy place.

Look at Goods Japan. They have decent ones reasonably priced.

I am going to have to saw two things. The best way to learn is do your item 4 times. You will improve with each try. You will also see your mistakes and hopefully not do them the next time. The thing the makes the hairs stand up on my neck is when I hear someone say, "No one will notice but you." This is absolutly incorect. Almost everyone will notice. They will just be too polite to tell you that your work sucks. If yoru work is not better than what you can buy at the store then why would they buy it from you? Hand wour needs to be better than production work or there is no reason to do it. Aaron

I think the issue I had was I used cut up cloth as a core. I just packed it in till it was full. I tried to shape it as I was filling. My pattern was a photocopy of a real ball. I think the shape was altered trying to flatten out the rounded areas. The final stitch was the hardest to keep symetrical.

Awsome! Yours looks better than mine. Thanks for fixing the pattern too, mine also ended up a little square.

Exactly. The sewing needle is spun like a drill.

There is likely no single question that will get more differant responces. What I do. I drill the holes with a very large sewing machine needle. Tandy sells them. Put the needle in the drill press and drill through with it (turn it on). The needle will push leather back but not remove leather like a drill bit will. Aaron

nice

Goods japan is a great source. Medium quality tools, always liked what I got from them.

As to the very first tools I agree bevelers are first. I would go with smooth, at least 3 sizes. Leaf liners are center shader next. If you can not tool now, you still will not be able to, but once you start to learn it will make your life easier.

No matter how much you try to explain to someone that they are nicer/better/smother until someone uses them there is just no way to convince them. I hav ehad so many peope tell me they just did not believe there could really be a big differance from such a small little tool.

Remove the alignment bit from the hole saw. Clamp the board to the table. Drill a round hole w/o a pilot. Go very slow at the start.