bruce johnson

Daniel, I had a Boss. I bought one of the early ones (cast iron) and have no regrets about that machine. In the same situation I would do it again in a heartbeat. It was also my first machine. I was doing a lot of what you are anticipating running under it, and found no downfalls with the machine other than you power it. At the time I bought it, the Boss was $1600 with no accessories. The equivalent in a powered machine was $5000. Mine would sew anything I could cram under the foot, and feed it. I sewed 10 oz tooled wear leathers on 1" felt saddle pads. I sewed wallet interiors. A ton of belts, checkbooks, and planners went through it. A bunch of saddle skirts (two layers of skirting plus the woolskin). I did some pad things for a guy's carriage out of 3 layers of heavy harness. You can sew holsters. I just mounted mine on a little benchtop tool stand from Harbor Freight, like you mount a little table saw or belt sander on. I wouldn't butcher a Ken Allen stitching horse to mount a Boss. You will still find use for the horse. I have three machines and still use my stitching horse. As far as accessories, they didn't make the center presser foot then that I knew of. I had a regular foot, right and left toe foot for sewing around spots and inlays, and a stirrup plate. The stirrup plate raises the work and shortens the turn radius of the cylinder arm. For sewing 90 degree corners like bags and shaving kits - very handy. I didn't have the edge guide, but that would have been nice for the unpaid help. My Boss required little attention other than oiling. Once I got the bottom tension where I liked it (first day), I really didn't have to mess with anything other than stitch length, and a tweak or two on the top tensions depending on thread size and material. I ran a little tighter tensions than some people do, but it worked well. I run a little tighter tensions on my powered machines too. I taught two wives and my son how to sew on it. Learning curve of about 5 minutes. I was doing a lot of wholesale work and award orders then. I could sit them down with a stack of belts or whatever, and not have to worry about them running off an edge while I was doing something else. Skip asked about the resale value. Looks like on ebay the ones from private sellers bring a fair to pretty good return. Some bring more than some of the sale prices the sellers probably paid for them. I don't know how many of the dealer machines sell. I sold mine outright on another list for about half what I paid for it, probably for less than I could have got on ebay. It had already paid for itself in about the first few months, so the rest was gravy. Tippmann seems to stand behind them. On the few parts that I broke, they were happy to overnight them on their nickle. They were parts that were beefed up as time went on, an arm lifter, and the block that the handle attaches to. The original capscrew size was too small and the handle could fatigue it and shear it off. They were rebuilding anybody's Boss (not just the original owner) for something like $100, and warranteeing them like new. If you are buying used, check with Tippmanns about that. I was going to send mine for rebuild, and then have them ship it on to whoever bought it. Jim at Tippmann figured everyone was further ahead to ask $100 less, let the new buyer use it. If it ever needed work, then they would get even more time out of it. One thing nice too. It is a heck of a lot easier to ship a Boss than any other stitcher. There are very few guys who have the luxury of a local mechanic qualified to work on any stitcher.

Kevin, I just sew it with my normal setup on my machines and sews like about anything else. I was warned that the beads will deflect the needles, but haven't had that happen. I am not sewing across the areas with the big beads or the white spots though. I have not had the need to hand sew it yet.

Wolvie, I am running IE. I am not sure if it was something that got changed during one of the updates to Windows, a Norton update or what. Where do I look for the cookie settings? Be easy, I am not a computer guy.

Seems like something has cropped up in the last month or so. I am not sure if it is my computer setting, or something with the board. In the good old days, I would log in, and be logged in forever. I could come back in an hour or a couple days, and still be logged in. Now, if I leave the site, I may be logged in or maybe not. Sometimes a couple hours later I am still in. Other times I leave for 5 minutes, or the connection is interrupted momentarily, and I have to log back in. There doesn't seem to be a pattern. The frustrating thing is that while typing a post, sometimes my connection is interrupted. When I go to post it, it tells me I am not authorized, takes me to the log-in page, and eats my homework.

Timbo, The first thing you need is the book Sheridan Style Carving by Bob Likewise, Clint Fay, and Billy Gardner. It describes the tools you need and why they differ from other stamping tools. It also describes how to lay out patterns, simple and more complex. It also has examples of work by the masters to shoot for. Most all of the leathercraft sellers have it. Realistically 10-15 tools can do a single Sheridan pattern. You need different sizes then for different size patterns. Most all of my tools are from Barry King. His are designed for the style and priced affordably. He usually has them in stock, and ready to ship. Later on you will find different flower centers, and such to mix it up. I have some other tools by Ellis Barnes, Wayne Jueschke, Jeremiah Watt, and some Hidecrafters and TLF stamps that fit.

Brent, A belated welcome. You perked my ears up when you mentioned Logansport. I lived there from 1968 through 1984. I am a fine graduate of Logansport HS (Yes folks we were the "Logan Berries" - no joke), worked in the slaughterhouse, and went to college at Purdue. I ended up in California, but my folks still live there. I was back once in 2003 for the HS reunion. When I was growing up there, Harold Streu had the Bar S Saddle shop. I spent a bit of time there. They auctioned off his estate a while back, and I sent my dad to buy me a "nostalgia" tool. I am kind of curious who is doing leatherwork in Logansport now, get them to join us here. Best of luck to the reformed guild.

I was just looking at the website for Frank Hansen, and saw that they have a a rein rounder they sell, in addition to the string cutter/beveler. Has anybody used or seen one? The picture looks Ok, the step-downs are 1/32" (good) and looks smooth. The website is www.hansenstringcutter.com , go to the order tab, and it is listed at the bottom under the string cutter. Click the rein rounder underline and it comes up. Looks like a good piece, and might be the source to refer to if it works better than the guys back east sell.

Pete, I use the Pro-Dye/oil combo. I have not had the pigment sludging you describe. I am still using the spirit dyes. One thing I have had people tell me with spirit dyes is that they are a saturated solution. If the lid is left off very long, solvent will evaporate, and excess pigment will settle to the bottom. If you shake them they will suspend, but not go back into solution and settle, be darker, or be blotchy. I use dye in quarts, and they are only opened a few times to dump 6-8 oz out. Evaporation probably is not a concern with mine. Even so, once you mix it with the oil the solvent probably evaporates off, and all you have is pigment. It seems to stay mixed pretty well. I give the jug a shake or two and pour it into the paint roller tray. The new dye formulas are different. They are mostly water based, and so probably won't mix. I'll find the substitute when I start running low.

Steve, They are not the same. For a better discussion on splitters we have a couple threads going. Check out the thread in Leather Tools > wanted - splitter - do they even make this?. A good discussion of splitters in genreal, and mention of the comparison between the TLF and Osborne models.

Marcel, The easiest way to get round edges is to use round bottom edgers. They cut in a round profile to start with. The readily available ones cut a flat profile, like the TLF and common edgers from CS Osborne. They cut a flat cut much like mini french edgers. The old time makers made round bottom edgers - Gomph and others. Today there are a few tool makers making them. Most all of the Bisonette pattern edgers will cut in a round profile. Three makers that make round bottom edgers are Ron from Ron's Tools (www.ronstools.com) and Jeremiah Watt (www.ranch2arena.com) has two styles - the Vizzard edgers and round edgers. Bob Douglas makes round bottom edgers too. All are good tools in my hands.

Randy, In a nutshell, I wouldn't. I don't think it would hold up to use and abrasion very well. You have to have some bevel around to hold up I think. One thing I have considered is lasering in a pattern or logo, and then using that as a base for beveling and dyeing, much more accurate than a tracing and stylus. You could even just laser in the tooling pattern outline, and use that as a guide for swivel knifing. For several items the same, It would save stylus and tracing time for sure. I sure see some possibilities with lasers.

Randy, I have done exactly one, so am no expert. I talked with a guy who has a family-run store beforehand. They were sourcing out the the glass engraving and leather lasering. He just got one, but knew the nuts and bolts of it. Basically laser on unoiled leather, the oil will bring out the darkening even more. I have attached a planner I did. It was a bit scarey, because I did the tooling first, and then took it over to her. I was dang sure hoping she had it set up so the engraving would come out centered, it did. I wasn't relishing the idea of doing it over. It turned out pretty well.

Randy, I am 47, I just sound crotchety some times. Steve, I am pretty sure you are not going to see any selection of machines near you. As Art has posted, there are some places who will sell a beefed home machine that can do thin soft leather, and call it a leather machine. They list them like that on ebay all the time. For the caliber of machine to do leather right, the new machine sellers are in Ohio, Montana, Idaho, and California. Most of these companies ship and deal direct on the dedicated leather machines. Most of the sewing machine shops, even the industrial shops in bigger cities, only deal with the occasional heavier stitcher. If they don't have a tech who has experience with them, you are better off to wing it with a manual and telephone. Leather machines and timing are an area of their own. If you want to go the used route, there are some sellers in about all parts of the country.

Steve, I am envious of all you "young guys". In the good old days of my leather youth, I went got tendonitis in both elbows from handsewing. The day I couldn't brush my teeth the choices were $1600 for a relatively new stitcher called a Boss - no attachments, 10 needles, and a skinny spool of thread or the next step up that was equivalent cost $5000. Nothing in between. Today there are the line of Artisan 3000 ands 4000s, Ferdco 1010, 2020, and Pro 2000 for cylinder arms. Flatbeds have always been around, but there are more and better ones. Motors are a big step forward from a few years ago. Don't I sound like a crotchety old man? Seriously, there are a ton of choices out there now, and it is daunting to look at the ads and advice given here and other places and figure it out. First thing I would say is you need to define what you will be sewing - flat goods can go on either a cylinder arm or flatbed machine. The thickness will determine how much capacity you need, add more capacity than you think you need. Case goods almost have to be done on a cylinder arm. There are some great used machines out there, if you know what you are looking at. If you have never sewn, I would recommend new. You will get support from the seller that way, they want you happy. Some of us have had good dealings with one company or another. A picture of my shop shows whose I like. Others have machines from several sellers. I would highly recommend that if you are serious about a machine, have little experience with even a home fabric machine, no expereince with a leather machine, and want to make the most informed decision - go to Sheridan in May. Everybody is there - Luberto, Artisan, Ferdco, Weaver. There are other guys not there who sell machines - Cowboy, Neel, Sewmo, some new ones in the magazines and on ebay, but Artisan, Weaver, and Ferdco have been in it for the long haul, and Luberto's machine is a bit different but works for some guys. Compare the different machines, sew on them, talk to them, and learn their names. Kick someone out of the stool if they are just resting and step on the gas. Drive them and get a feel. You don't have to buy one there, but you will see more in one place than anyplace else. Plus it is a cool town and great time.

Tony, It is some variation of a Chase pattern splitter. I like them - easy to adjust, very even skives, no chopping, blade is protected and so are your fingers, and they just look cool on the bench. They are so much fun to use, I have about given up turning the crank on my American splitter. I have not seen one quite like that though. I have two Osbornes, an 8" and 10". Horn also made them, HF Osborne I think, CS Osborne for sure, and no doubt others. Is there any name on the blade or under the frame somewhere? I have heard they haven't made the Osbornes in that pattern for at least 50 years, and I would bet longer. I sent the picture on to a few guys are pretty sharp on these relics and will see what they say. If I don't find out there, I will show it to my old buddy, who is a relic.

I see a "tissue moment" in the making here. My wife will need one when I just show her the picture and the story. That is a great idea, a great job on it, and I am sure your friend will cherish it for a long time.

Johanna, I am thinking it was you who mentioned Powertoy Image Resizer somewhere. If it was, I owe you one. If not, I still owe you one, just not over this. It is the simplest one I have found to resize pictures. Right click on the picture. A drop menu shows up, click resize. It gives me a choice of small, medium, or large. Choose and thats it. It puts the resized pic in the same folder with the reduced size designation. It was a free download, and worth every penny.

Paul, I have used quite a few of the Veach buckles. I was a fairly early customer. There is actually a topic on this in the saddle section under the "saddle supplies tools, and trees" subtopic. Unfortunately Ben has sold the rights to the buckles. Apparently this buyer is not planning to sell them outside of their use at this time. Brackney's has closed the store where Ben worked, and he has moved shop to a farm south of Greencastle. I talked to Ben and he wouldn't/couldn't say who bought the rights, and I have to respect his confidentiality and didn't push it. Eventually it will come out who has them. There are a few makers who used them a lot who are out on this deal too. G-G was using them and Randy and Dennis may have got the last of them. Circle Y was putting them on some too. I had some barrel racers and a few cutters that really liked them. I liked them OK, but didn't put them on everything. I put a lot of Nevada twist leathers on the workers and ropers, and they don't work for that. They really shined for the short leg rider, they rode over a latigo easily, and twisted in a shorter length. If you have any 2-1/2 " ones to sell, I am interested. I put the last pair on two weeks ago, and got a spare pair from a buddy that I found yesterday.

Wow, I really like the mecate. You can twist some hair now. Great colors and pattern. Rawhide work looks good too.

Skip, My travelogue for Sheridan, 1). King's Shop/museum - after the shop, go out the backdoor, across the alley and into the rope, saddleshop and museum. I have visted the museum twice before during show times. I have never felt rushed, but kind of kept moving. This last time I was there a few hours, and if I wanted to look at something for 10 minutes, I did. 2). Sheridan Leather Outfitters - Good selection of leathers. Stamping tools from a couple makers. Hand tools from several makers, new and used. Good selection of saddle hardware and finishes. Probably one of the best selections of using exotics of any single shop in the country. Saddle trees, but the demand usually outstrips the supply. Good people to deal with. 3). Barry King - Barry makes stamp tools, mauls, and handtools. Impressive machinery. He will give you the tour, and has a display area with most everything in stock and for sale. Another good guy to deal with. 4). Tom Balding's Bits and Spurs. - Handmaker of bits and spurs. I am biased here too. Last year we prearranged a spot for some custom spurs for my wife during the leather week. She went over there during her lunch break on Monday from her class and designed them. We picked them up on Thursday. They will gladly give you a tour. Probably would be glad to write up an order while you are there. 5). The Mint - local color and flavor. Neat bar, very cool backbar, and historic pictures on the wall behind you. The obligatory wildlife head mounts and snakeskins for decor. Happy hour(s) prices I am glad to report are still $3.25 for call drinks.

Annie, Sheridan Leather Outfitters have them, along with a good selection of other saddle hardware. Phone Number is (888) 803-3030.

Pella, Usually Weaver has been among the best for hardware for me. They all can get a bad batch or are trying a new source. Pretty sure none of the big sellers are casting their own, they are buying it. The metal market has skyrocketed in the last few years too, and that may be a factor. The last order I made for hardware from Walsall in Phoenix, AZ was pretty good. I threw in some brass and italian bronze to fill out the order, and it was surprisingly good. I hadn't ordered from Walsall for a few years. No particular reason, just filled orders from other places, but they had a back cinch buckle that looked cool (it is). When I ordered before from Walsall, you would have to buff up one occasionally or it would have a casting pit. It was priced good enough to toss a few and still be ahead on the deal. The last stuff was all good. I am pretty sure none of these places are going to cherrypick hardware out of the bins for me, but my order was a step above what I got from them before.

Amy, A forum I am on is the honorable cordwainers colloquy. They have a website - www.thehcc.org. Originally I joined to pick up some info on machines and exotic leathers, stuff like that. These guys are mostly traditional handmakers from around the world. The more I am around them, the more I have decided to buy my boots and shoes, and stick to what I know. They are immensely helpful, very traditional, and particular. They are also quite a philosophical group. We have little post-its around the house of their quotes. There are a couple of first time makers on there, basically learning and getting a lot of help and advice from masters of the gentle craft. Kind of the transcending philosphy there in a nutshell is that "good handmade techniques are fundamental. If you choose to step down to factory methods later, then that is your call". I like looking at the pictures in the gallery section too. These people can inlay like nobody's business.

Pete, I darken all of my oil pretty much. I can get the color I want without overoiling. I use pure neatsfoot, and darken with Tandy ProDye. I am using the "old" spirit dyes that I stockpiled. No particular reason for the ProDye other than that is what I started with, I know which colors and concentrations do what, and what the mix will do with my leathers. The Feibings dyes of the same name were not even close in color to the ProDye, so I stuck with what I knew. They would have worked, but would have required some experimentation to get the same colors. I just mix the dye into the gallon of oil, and give it a shake. I am using mostly the medium brown and the dark brown. If you uncap the mix, the solvent evaporates off pretty fast, and then it can be recapped. I have used it straight after mixing with no problems too. This works with the Bee Natural oil too. I have used some in the past. I know the new water based dyes probably won't mix with the oil, so all this is a bit academic right now. Some guys I talked to are using (and have used for a while) wood stains for tinting. Once I start to run low on the dyes I have, I will be mixing and seeing. Wth all the product changes, I am not sure what Weaver is doing with their labeled products. I have usually found the phone reps less than knowledgable about products, and a bit reluctant to find out or refer me up the foodchain there. I have been told their mauls are made by Barry King - a local Amish craftsman.

Robert, Sounds like you have the basic controls figured out. As far as a manual, you might try ShopTalk. Website is www.proleptic.net. They seem to have manuals for several different leather machines. I am not sure if they are originals or reprints. The manual for my Fortuna is pretty ancient, and 60 pages. Bound tight and would crack if I tried to scan or copy it. Biggest issue would be getting the feet and possibly a feedwheel. I got mine from Arnold at Melanie Machine in Vernon, CA (Los Angeles). Oldcowpoke just joined here, and he deals in machinery, and might have a handle on things too. A lot of the ShopTalk advertisers for machinery might be able to help on parts, and maybe a manual too. I can't tell from your pictures, do you have an edge guide? That is pretty important to keep the edge at a constant point under the presser foot and even skives.