Constabulary

me too me too - let me in...

I also missed a few nice machines in the past. You sometimes have to act fast when you see a good deal... sorry that it is gone.

This thread needs to be pinned. But maybe the admins should ad some sewing machine model names to the thread title

Show us some pictures of the Pfaff and I´m sure someone will know it. I´d buy the 1245 because I prefer the vertical / top load hook.

Well, I wish I had one of these attachments - not sure if I realy can use it but it would be nice to have http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=27902&hl=%2Bdarning+%2B29k

5 SPI is the max. stitch length the 29K and 30 have when new. Test the stitch length on a thin piece of card board. A good score for a used patcher is 5.5 - 6 SPI but when is it shorter I (personally) would bot buy the Adler due to the spare parts situation (or you can live with shorter stitches). For the 29K you may find the parts but have to find out which are worn but you at least can find any 29K71 part for reasonable prices.

Yep The Adler paint job looks original but I´m not 100% sure and the machine seems to have a darning attachment.

29K71 also came in black. Sorry - I don´t know where to find pre wound bobbins.

You should try to test sew materials you are going to sew with the machine later of course. Cosmetic is a hint but the machine could have been repainted at one point of it´s life. You sometimes find Adler 30 machines in light gray but they do not have a mechanisms for disengaging the hand wheel so you can be sure these machines never have left the factory with this paint. But thats something not everybody knows and it does not mean the seller is cheating you - it just means the machine has been repainted or refurbished. But that tells you nothing about the technical condition. Especially for patcher machines it is important to test sew them before you pay a lot of $$$ - a lot of them are worn and a new paint job does not improve the stitch length.

The stupid high prices for Adler parts are one of the reason why I decided to use vintage Singer machines. And yet I do not regret it. Made in Germany is expensive but no one really knows if the Adler spare parts are still made in Germany - I doubt it. Well, Singer machines are spread all over the world and I think there are more Singer 29K + clones than Adler 30 out there so the demand for Singer parts is higher and parts are cheaper therefore (my theory). I personally think that the last 29K models are technically ahead of any Adler 30. Adler has not much changed on their machines since they have introduced them (I only remember a different adjuster knob on the thread adjuster and 2 different systems to disengage the hand wheel when winding the bobbin). They are still using the long blade spring for putting pressure on the foot while Singer introduced the smaller helical spring in the 1940´s (if not earlier). The 29K foot lift hight mechanism is also ahead of the Adler 30 and so is the gearbox system I´d say. I don`t think thats a factory new Adler 30 sews better or lasts longer than a factory new 29K. It´s always a question of how extensive they were used, how they were treated and how well they were serviced. Both were made for the same purses and both have their "followers". 29K owners love their 29K´s and Adler 30 owners love their Adler 30´s as long as they are working well. But the Adler 30 owners have a disadvantage when they need spare parts. So for me (personally) the logical decision was the Singer 29K71 though I was looking for a short arm Adler 30-15 first. But the 29K71 really convinced me because of the spare parts situation and as I said before I think they are technically ahead. It´s important that you test the machine before you buy it or at least ask for the max. possible stitch length it will produce before you drive hundreds of miles. When a used Adler patcher needs parts you may have a (financial) problem. Some of the 29K and Adler 30 parts are interchangeable but yet have not had both machines at one time so I was not able to compare the important parts.

Reminds me a bit of the Pfaff 332 or similar Paff free arm machines or Duerkopp 1021. But I never before have seen this particular machine

Uwe - you rock! You are hired for sewing machien Videos!

Try a needles 1 size up or use a 1 size smaller thread in the bobbin. Check the tension spring on the hook if it has dirt / lint underneath or if it is worn / bent up or the like.

No overkill - why? The swing down guides are 39.00GBP at College Sewing in the UK, not sure how much they are in Canada https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/KG1245-DROP-GUIDE-PFAFF-1245%2c1246%2c1525%2c1526%2c335%2c591

Hi Ralf, you have to disassemble the head to get to the bell crank lever. Remove the pin that attaches the needle bar to the adjuster in the top lever (back to front, pin is tapered), remove the 4 screws that hold the head on the body, remove the foot lift lever, remove the screw that holds the curved spring on the head and the 2 screws on the top, remove the 2 screws from the bell crank lever.... Maybe I forgot something but thats basically what you have to do and since you love old technology the rest is pretty much self explaining. It´s sometimes a bit tricky but no rocket science - I did that a couple of times in the past year. My 1st patcher was a Singer 29K71 and I knew nothing about it. All parts just fit in one position so there is not much you can do wrong. I wish you posted this 2 days earlier - yesterday I was in Langenhagen BTW - as far as I know the bell crank lever from the 30-1 and Singer 29K are the same, you maybe have to do some small modifications.

I just looked at the parts manual (looked at the parts drawings not checking the parts # & nomenclatures) and if your machine looks like the one in the manual then I would assume it has a safety clutch (I thought it hasn´t) and the button in the flat bed is for reengaging it BUT it either has no stitch length adjuster (fixed stitch length) or it has a different stitch length mechanism. Can you post a picture of the underside of your machine? Usually the 111´s have two buttons in the flat bed, left one for adjusting the stitch lenght (hold it down and adjust the stitch length by turning the hand wheel) and the right one is for reengaging the safety clutch. So I´m not certain if it is possible and how to adjust the stitch length on your machine.

Usually the the needlebar should rise 2.5mm from BDC and at this point the hook tip should meet the needle scarf 1.6mm above the needle eye in the center of the needle. Thats basically the same at all machines of this type. It works for the Singer 111, Dürkopp 239 / 241, Paff 145 and I´m sure it works for your Adler as well. But maybe you just hit a hard spot and you just have to lower the needle bar a little bit.

when you slide away the lid on the top right side you can see the timing belt. Some machines can handle 207 but most likely it can`t. I would not count on it.

It´s your first sewing machine, right? You can change the thread size by using larger size needle and adjusting the top tension (and maybe bottom tension) accordingly. Manual tells you how to change the stitch length. It´s a good idea to read the manual first anyway. Just as a note - looks like your machine has no safety clutch - at least it has no button for re-engaging it. Furthermore seems it once was a 2 needle machine because it has a tension unit for 2 threads and a longer bed to accommodate a 2nd hook on the left side.

Agree - check the timing belt - if it is an old looking brownish belt and it has a lot of small cracks or even chipped spots or missing teeth then be careful. The problem of these Adlers is that the shaft bearing is very very small (compared with a Singer 111 f.i.) and you will have serious problems squeezing the timing belt through the gap between shaft and housing when you have removed the bearing. And removing that freakin bearing is the 1st challenge. It is doable you can damage the timing if you are not careful. I did thats once on an Adler 167 and since then I leave my fingers of any Adler machine with questionable timing belts. Here is a picture of how it looks when the bearing is removed (it was a pain)

G is for Germany. Early German Singers had a D for "Deuschland" in their model numbers but in 1945 the Singer factory in Wittenberge / Prussia was disassembled in 1945 by the Russians. In the 1950´s Singer started again in West Germany and these machines have a G in their model number. If you don´t mind please post some pictures of your machine. It is the same machine as the 111w117 and the 117 subclass has an edge cutter as far as I know (if not removed). Yes, it takes the same parts - I have a 111G156 and all standard Singer 111 fit this machine. I hope the attached files will help you (parts list & manual) 111W116_117.pdf 111W152_W153_W154_W155.pdf

They have the G60 www.ae-sewingmachines.co.uk

It´s a guess so comapre the dimentiosn before buying. The 111 bobbins are ~ 21,5mm diameter x 10mm high

I also have two JACK servos from College Sewing in the UK, both 750Watts and both have added a speed reducer. One is for my 133K3 and on the other one I have a Singer 111. Maybe overpowered for the 111 but it will only kick the safety clutch when you hit something really hard at higher speed so thats not an issue for me since I´m sewing quite slow (and it never happened). If you need a needle positioner the Jack servos do not work with an added speed reducer. I have no experience with the Ho Hsing G60 but sounds like a good one. I think it doesn`t matter if a 750Watts or 550Watts Servo or 370Watts clutch motor kicks off the clutch when you hit a hard spot. The resistance of the clutch is always the same. I´d say thats what the safety clutch is meant for.

I´ll send you an PM